davidwort

book time for all of those added together could be a few hours labour, plus parts, vat and mot cost can't see any garage quoting you less than 2 hours work.

or the negative pin from another bust heated washer jet, it always seems to be the positive side that corrodes.

you will need a whole new cable, get a second hand one, one off a mk3 golf with the cable change box will do, same part no. as a corrado if you can't find a corrado breaking. It's only mk3's with the cable box mind, the smaller engined mk3's have the rod change boxes instead.

from your comment about blipping the throttle to settle the revs I read that as the valve starting to play up, the other thing to check is that the idle circuit is being switched on, there's a micro-switch on the throttle body that does this when the throttle is in the shut position, sometimes the mechanism gets gunked up and the switch doesn't quite get pressed, you could also check if the switch is actually operating with a multimeter/test light.

there isn't a WUR on the 9A :lol: the 9A has an electronic control unit (pressure regulator) on the side of the metering head which is controlled by the ECU, you really need a KE jet 9A re-chippped if you're running a modified head and/or cams.

sounds like classic duff idle valve, try one off another car to rule it out, although not a perfect fit where the bracket supports it, a mk2 golf gti or passat 8v one will connect up and operate correctly, possibly some of the mk3 and audi ones too, providing it has the same basic long metal body and the electrical connector fits. Cleaning them doesn't always work.

just out of interest, was it the hall sender in the distributor that caused the problem? they can give some odd symptoms when they start to break down, there's not much else in the distributor to go wrong really although the obvious one is the oil seal going and filling the thing with oil from the head.

Despite what I've heard said, in my experience the oil temp gauge is pretty accurate, providing the head earth straps are in good condition and not loose! Most 16v engines tend to run at about 100-110 oil temp when fully warmed up (10-15mins driving from cold) and should only really rise when being revved high repeatedly or sustained high speed motorway runs. My new 2L bottom end (KR head and injection) ran a little bit warmer on both oil and water while it was bedding in, but only a degree or two. If it's running a bit too hot it could be too lean, what are the plugs like?

just seen this link posted on Club GTI mk2 under-tray looks like it may fit a 4cyl corrado???

Anyone know what thsi solenoid does then?? Why would it cause the car to lose power at the 1800rpm mark?? idle air by-pass valve? BTW, how good is the Vibratechnics mount on your 16v?, considering one as my 16v moves about too much on standard front mounts.

If you're getting little or no heat into the car it could be the stat stuck open, a problem with the matrix by-pass valves (re-call fitment that is on the matrix feed pipes just before the bulkhead under the bonnet) or a blockage in the matrix itself, even an air lock. But as you say the dash light flashes I'd say it's more likely to be the header tank level sensor or wiring to it which is dodgy. A stuck open stat will cause very slow warm up but you will still get a full reading when the car is sat stationary for long enough with no flow of air through the rad. the senders on the side of the KR head are all the same (the three small ones around the water outlet pipe) so their connectors can be swapped about to check if one is dodgy, they feed the gauge, idle circuit and ecu IIRC. the stat itself is in the water pump outlet plastic flange underneath the power steering bracket, pain to get at but easy enough to test in a pan of water bing heater up on the hob :)

the carb mk1 based cars had a small inline filter between the point at which the fuel line comes up from the bulkhead to the fuel pump mounted on the block, sometimes you see another one added closer to the carb if the car has suffered from water/rust etc in the tank.

I'm assuming you're manifold gaskets are sealing properly, did you use new ones, particularly for the head one. The only similar symptom I've ever had was a strange air-lock in the fuel system, car would try to fire but die instantly, in the end priming the system several times by turning the ignition on an off but not all the way to fire the starter cured it, can't remember if that was after the system pressure had all been released though from major engine work.

can't see how you could affect the timimng by doing the cover and inlet, but you should have put new O rings on the injectors, the old ones may well not seal properly now, did they all pop back in place easily enough?

shud do, if you've got the right spring caps, top mounts etc.

just IMO: it would have to be, at 100k I would consider it, if the price was right and the car had a good record, the mk4 is a lovely comfortable car and many are well specced, but at nr 200k you really need to know your stuff when looking the car over, so much could be on it's last legs, mechanical and electrical. I'd rather spend more money on one with fewer miles than have a car that you could spend a couple of grand on to keep on the road, sha99ed gearboxes, air-con, turbos and suspension components etc... The 'S' wasn't a great spec from what I recall either, SE and above and preferably X plate on is what I'd be looking for, they also had fair few changes and improvements around then, not immediately obvious.

I simply cut down some standard new bump stops, making sure you can still attach the dust/splash covers, the GSF splash covers I got were shorter than the original corrado ones (mk3?) and better fit for it. I bought my konis separate, but I reckon you're better off buying a kit (keep an eye out for some of the mail order places doing discounts) and then sell the springs on on e-bay etc. think I payed as much for the separate bits as a whole kit in the end! I've tried various settings and it seems happiest on the softest both front and rear, perhaps winding up the fronts a little more in the summer. - David.

I've had eibachs on my valver for 11 years! to be fair the standard shocks are not really the best match for them and the rear bump stops will just be destroyed if they haven't been cut down to suit the lower eibachs. I've had a number of shocks with them and although it's the most expensive option the koni sport (yellow) top adjustable dampers are by far the best, they work really well with the eibach springs which will always be quite stiff regardless of what you put with them. The payback is the stability at high speed and handling on dry flat road surfaces :D My car is a year round daily driver and I like comfort too, can only repeat what I've said, after years of trying different dampers the koni's make for a very pleasant ride.

If you're not in a rush it's not too bad, clamp up the brake hoses to stop loosing all your fluid, unscrew them from the calipers and the remove the whole rear beam. I cut out the old bushes and pulled in the new ones with a home made puller(long nut and bolt and some big washers) and some pieces of metal packing to fit the curved shape of the new bushing edge. The beam just sat on a pair of axle stands for this so I wasn't crouching over it lying on the floor. The febi bushes I bought seem fine though the genuine VW sourced parts may well last the longest, my originals were still serviceable after nearly 15 years. I burnt out the old rubber to pull the centres out of the old bushes then carefully hack-sawed out the outer parts, bit of grease helped the new ones pull in. Despite what I'd been told about the possibility of pulling them in too far (I under-did it then offered the beam up to the car to make sure) it looked unlikely that they could have been pulled in too much, just make sure you have a pic taken for reference as to the correct orientation for the new ones. Admittedly I had the luxury of a 2 poster workshop lift to put the car on, but you should be able to do the job with the car on axle stands, the only way to do it with the beam in-situ is a workshop lift and the proper VW hydraulic puller though.

no, it's too long, what you need is a 430mm one from a 1.6 carb golf mk2, same size as a 16v corrado one just not quite as efficient, perfectly up to the job though unless the weather changes to 35 degrees or you use it as a track car :)

have a look at these:

I think they may be on about the whole intake pipe then, as this smaller pipe is only part of that whole unit now.

any of these?

can you be a bit more specific (engine, description of what part it is) or put up a pic?

Don't forget to chock the rear wheels if lifting the whole front of the car off the ground, even when supported on two axle stands, the handbrake might hold it parked on a slight incline but it's not worth the risk if the front is lifted off the ground