davidwort

they tend to pull out easier if the engine is warm as the main o-rings get hard with age, some cars don't seem to have the retaining clips on, probably just the earlier KR ones though.

the springs, they may have changed recently but the Koni kit springs were pretty cheap ones in the past, quite a few people have bought the kits, then H&R's to use with them and flogged the springs from the kit on for a few quid, if you price Koni's up separately they're about as much as the full kit anyway, if not more.

so the 4 branch and high lift cams together give about 6bhp, not very good value when you consider you could spend almost 700 quid on these two items, BTW I'm running 176bhp with a standard manifold and downpipe and KR standard cams.

Yeah, my mate had an old van in for MOT which they couldn't turn off after the smoke test... The oil in the engine seeps past the rings and acts like diesel fuel meaning that the engine will keep going until it runs out of oil... Only way to stop it is to try and stall the car... not easy on a metal set of ramps... :shock: apparently it's possible to stop one by blocking off the air feed, but I wouldn't fancy attempting that on an engine that's getting ready to destroy itself.

The 1.05 and 1.3L polo and golf engines had a vacuum advance and some have weights and points inside the distributor before the electronic ignition version came out in about '86 (which still uses vac advance), these are fitted on the side of the head like the 16v engines. I've no idea if one would fit but I doubt if you get anything like the right advance curve you'd really want for a 16v.

Yep, couple of quid plus postage? pm me if interested.

I've seen a really good mk3 roof for under 50 quid before, very smooth running and didn't feel worn at all, I'm sure the mechanism (not liner or roof panel) are a direct fit to the C and they look like some of the parts have been re-designed. Obviously a complete strip down and rebuild of the roof would be best, but a mk3 roof looked like a good option to me, cheaper even if you had to buy a couple over the next few years! There's always the old trusty passat roof. David.

looks fine to me, dots should be level with the edge of the head casting as in your pic. use the flywheel mark to align the crank and paint the arrow on the lower timing cover, makes it much easier to see. David.

yep, goes straight in.

068 121 063M, it's slightly wider on the pump end

tut, tut, :) hope you fix that for the MOT, don't think it's legal to vent to the air unless it's built like that.

not sure, but it's the smaller size, doesn't have to be 12v or have a built in resistor etc as the switch has the resitor in it already, I just soldered one in that I found on an old bit of computer hardware and it's worked fine for a year or so.

take a trip to Maplins, they're pennies, sunroof is an LED

:lol: my old 1.6 mk4 has 175's as standard and weighs in it the same as a VR6

are you going to pop over to pick them up? :) interesting how much the postage would be, and what about TAX?

Kev, have you tried VW, I'm pretty sure that they can supply camber bolts for the mk2 chassis as a fix for 'problem' cars. Only trouble would be finding a dealership with enough knowledge to find the part rather than just deny they exist right from the start. David. edit: OK could this be it? - strange as the part no. seems to be the same as for the standard Corrado bolts???

none of what you list is that bad and you could do most of it yourself, front hub nuts are very tight and is probably best to leave this to a garage but it's not that bad a job. I'd expect that sort of list for any Corrado these days to be honest, almost routine on a 15 year old car. The main thing is the state of the body, providing that is straight you can do most of the rest of the work on a tight budget if you are willing to get your hands dirty. Rear bearings are cheap and not difficult to replace, they need some play in them anyway. Power steering pipe is not that difficult just awkward to get around everything, a good nick passat one second hand is an option, I got a mint condition one for 20 quid. fuel pipes are rusted to buggery on mine, but still ok, will do them and the filter soon, there's a how to on the site. Rear axle bushes can be done at home, but you'll need to take the axle off and make up a puller to pull the new ones in, that's a pain of a job that may be best left to a garage with the right VAG tool, that and the front gator shouldn't be more than 3 or 4 hours labour plus parts. Pads and hoses are cheap, easy to do and to be expected really. David.

I'll check my Haynes passat manual, I'm pretty sure the 1.8 doesn't need any connectors removed, but the 2.0 may do, I'm running K-jet on a 2L block just to add to the confusion, never removed any connections on mine though and I'm pretty sure I followed the manual for the 1.8.

pinking/pinging starts before it's audible, so I'd wind that dizzy back a bit, even if you've got knock sensors it's not good for the engine. My 2L is set to about 8.5 degrees advance at idle, no pinking at all and was set up at Stealth, but then it's got a P&P head and I always run it on Tesco 99. Base setting should be 6 deg +/- 1 You need a re-chip if you want more advance in higher revs.

make sure it's the correct length, there's a number of these crank pulley bolts, 16v ones are definitely longer, and stick some loc-tite on it when fitting. David.

yep, they're all exactly the same sensor, except the oil temp on the back of the head, but that should take a female connector across the top as it has a round flat connection, the other three should be push straight on male connectors on top of the senders. David.

1) You don't have a cat, no 1.8 16v's did. 2) You can't use a cat back system on a 1.8, even with a de-cat pipe as it won't mate up to your downpipe and even if you swap that for a 2.0 16v downpipe (intended to mate up to a cat) you'll find that the hangars on your car are the hook type and won't support the bar type hangars on the catalysed cars/systems. I short, you need a system designed for a 1.8 16v. David. Which doesnt exist!!!!! According to every vw supplier I have spoken with! So whatr the f**k am I meant to do???? :( TSR do a Jetex stainless for the 1.8 (Listed as pre 92), not sure if the Miltek or Supersprint are stainless though. http://www.tsr-performance.com/

1) You don't have a cat, no 1.8 16v's did. 2) You can't use a cat back system on a 1.8, even with a de-cat pipe as it won't mate up to your downpipe and even if you swap that for a 2.0 16v downpipe (intended to mate up to a cat) you'll find that the hangars on your car are the hook type and won't support the bar type hangars on the catalysed cars/systems. I short, you need a system designed for a 1.8 16v. David.

Nope, golf 2's use the rod change box so the mount is different, the front diesel golf engine mount can be used on a 4 cyl corrado but I'd just get a standard gearbox mount, same as passat, there is a passat diesel gearbox mount though too. Incidentally, I bought a new gearbox mount for mine, but I couldn't see anything wrong with the old one when I got it out (120,000 miles) David.

It can be caused by the edge of the pad rubbing against the rusted and pitted edge of the disk, disks often wear unevenly too, making noise more likely. It's not really worth re-facing the disks. When fitting new pads I tend to very slightly shamfer the edges of the new pad, just so it's not sharp and I don't then seem to get any problems with noise whether the disks are new or old. David.