davidwort

the diesel mount is hydraulic for the mk2 diesel golfs too, different part number to 16v and G60 golf and corrado but probably not obtainable any more (correct OEM VW part - 191 199 279 C) I'd imagine a pattern solid rubber part listed for the diesels will simly be the same part as the general mk2 golf solid rubber mount, personally I'd find a hydraulic one made by FEBI (replacement for VW no. 357 199 279B), the rear mounts I've had from FEBI have been fine, other suppliers make mounts that physically fit but cause vibration.

the late ones are more flared where the curved arch comes out of the flat side of the wing, about a cm more flare on the lates, so along the lines of 1cm flare early, 2cm on the lates. see my lovely ASCII art below: | / (

The non hydraulic front mounts are for older, smaller engined mk2 golfs, you need the hydraulic one to a) be stong enough for the heavier 1.8 16v and 2L engines and b) isolate the engine vibration sufficiently. If you go for an aftermarket mount like a vibratechnics, these are not hydraulic but are stronger than the basic rubber mount, they will reduce engine movement but at the trade off for noise and vibration, and eventually leading to increased wear on other engine parts, possibly even cracking the front engine bracket.

Obviously check the air box for moisture but I'd suspect the ignition side, maybe moisture or condensation is affecting the distributor or plug leads

shouldn't be any harder than undoing the mounting bolts and jacking the car off the mount, a little more clearance is needed as it's recessed in the subframe, but only a couple of inches, shouldn't need to disconnect the gearbox cables or anything.

check the vibration damper on the off-side driveshaft hasn't slipped it's moorings, they can slide along the driveshaft when it rusts and the paint flakes.

I could never understand why they didn't protect it better under the car, so many parts of the k-jet under there, filter, accumulator, pump and housing and all those banjo fittings, at least they should have put a shield over it, my 8v just has a filter...

You don't have to change the arms, it's well known the springs aren't strong enough and vw even uprated them through the corrado production, but you can improve them by bending the C shaped link at the bottom of the arm spring until it's 5mm or so shorter. This stretches the arm spring a little more which holds the blade tighter to the screen.

possibly, some engines have a temp sensor on the oil filkter housing too, usually a smaller switch, if you see any on the abf that look like the ones on the KR oil filter housing, unscrew them and take a look at the pressure values stamped under them.

yep, sounds like it's shot, draining power back from the battery and getting warm, try disconnecting it over night to check the battery is OK, but it's pretty clear the alternator needs replacing, can't remember exactly what causes this, possibly the rectifier diodes blowing, these could be repaired/replaced, but it's a bit of a specialised job with heavy duty soldering and access to the correct electrical spares, an exchange alternator is probably most cost effective.

standard vw oil pressure warning switches, should be able to pick up pattern ones from factors/ebay/second hand or new from VW pretty easily, the part no.s and pressure values are stamped on the bottom of them, one is for warning low pressure at idle the other low pressure at about 2000rpm, so one is about 0.3 bar the other about 1.3, the values vary from car to car and it's not completely necessary to have exactly the right ones. large sized hex, I've used a big adjustable spanner to remove them. list of 4 cyl oil pressure switches: [ATTACH=CONFIG]75626[/ATTACH]

don't worry, I do it every time I park the car somewhere slightly different at work and return to find it 's gone from the spot I parked it in............. yesterday!

don't go standing on it, that can be pretty lethal

ha ha , yeah my parents have one, has a carpet shampooing attachment that spreads foam but you then need to leave to dry before sucking up??, the vac weighs a ton and a real pain if you need to take it up and down stairs, but doesn't actually pick up pet hair very well despite practically pulling the carpet up off the grippers. I think it's best left for hotel corridors :lol:

you need something with a lot of suck for car carpets I reckon, I use the house dyson (old but fairly powerful DC07), we did buy a vax gator handheld which sucks very well for a handheld, but it's still not a patch on the mains fed 1200 watt motor of the dyson and doesn't last long at all, like you thought. I'd look for a second hand dyson DC07 or above rather than a cheap new vac, they're well made and even if the worst happens and the motor gives up you can buy a new pattern replacement for £25 quid.

I'd disconnect the battery negative, remove the fp relay, jump the connections on the fuse board and connect the battery negative briefly to see if the pump runs first.

Check out the fuel pump relay on the fuse board, no. 167, some other number sometimes also I can't remember, row on the right. Has two very large spade connectors, you can jump the large pins on the board with the relay out to check

The early cars don't seem to have the shut off flap in the top of the filler neck, my 1.8 doesn't anyway. I do get the odd whiff of petrol from it but not too bad.

Check the pump and filter under the car, driver's side, metal fuel lines can corrode and the fuel pump casing and unions can leak

here you go: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?133418-Toyotec-s-How-to-install-an-ABF-engine-in-your-Mk2-Golf-Revisit-of-KJet-car-180610

Club gti forum has a specific thread on this conversion, but it should essentially be plug in and go, use the inlet manifold from the kr for the injectors, not 100 % about the rear engine mount height but the block is only 10mm or so longer

looks like there are two diameter fuel pumps on k-jet mk2 golfs, 52 and 60mm depending on engine (KR 1.8 16v should be 60mm) : [ATTACH=CONFIG]75560[/ATTACH] the pump part number below shows the 'KR' Corrado one is the same as the golf 60mm one [ATTACH=CONFIG]75561[/ATTACH] unfortunately the narrower 52mm pump (that you seem to have) has a different fuel pump casing too (obviously the hole is 60mm not 52mm) looks like you have a smaller mk2 golf pump :( early 8v mk2 golfs had k-jet injection too, but with slightly different spec pumps, metering heads and injectors, looks like you have got an 8v and not 16v pump

Your original pic is the square fuel pump casing with the round pump inserted into it, the middle pics show the casing/ pump with the fuel pressure accumulator plumbed and tied to it. The one marked golf seems to be a casing and pump with a fuel filter attached

I bought trim tape from this seller, good stuff. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/WAYSIDE-ADHESIVES-DIRECT?_rdc=1 look under 'high bond tapes'

the actual fuel pump and accumulator are shared on golfs and passats with the KR engine (9a has a different part no. for the accumulator, which must be where the system pressure differences are between k-jet and ke-jet), but unfortunately the fuel pump casing although the same on 1.8's and 2.0 16v's is corrado specific (part no. 535 201 043), I'm not sure why though, as the passat and golf with the KR/9A engine are basically the same, perhaps a mounting point is slightly different or something?