davidwort

Cross over cars had early interior and late exteriors

My freidland one has been faultless for 10 years, this model looks good http://www.mrdoorbell.com/Friedland-Libra-Wireless-200m-Portable-Door-Bell-Chime-Kit-D914-p-114.html

Oh right, yep I remember! And yes, still got the old tub, but to be fair there's not much original, been slacking really, having another Corrado doesn't help time wise :) Steve, you've sanded and polished the indicators back up? I just assumed they would go cloudy, might have a go then, did you use T-cut after sanding?

Well that's a relief, 16v started up fine, mot booked for next week, nice to have her running again, all's good, ran very sweetly and started on second turn of the key, not bad for close to 2 years laid up and last run over a year ago.

New battery from euro car parts for the old valver, £42 delivered from eBay, fantastic price for a 3 year warranty branded battery, packed like it was going on a round the world trip too. Then I attempted to fit some glass protective film to the front lights, fogs and indicators, it's not as thick as laminex but it's pretty tough stuff and for 8 quid for a 2m roll I thought I'd experiment. Had to carefully trim the indicator hella logos flat as they stick out slightly in the plastic moulding, but that was fairly easy with a window scraper and some ptfe spray to lubricate the blade. Have to say I'm very impressed with the outcome, virtually invisible and hopefully will provide a bit of protection.

The later ady has a proper maf connected after the air box the 2e has the air flow meter on top of the air filter, if you are still unsure then the boot floor sticker or cam belt cover label has the engine code and number on it

Are you taking medication of some sort this evening?

Yep, timing these is easy, as long as you use the marks on the pulleys and align with the cam cover face on the timing belt end, flywheel/ crank mark and timing belt cover arrow and the cam chain gear 'o' marks. I think the protruding valves mean the head should be stripped to resurface, the piston tops have cut outs for the valves.

It's a doddle really, basically the same as an 8v golf/passat but with no intermediate shaft timing to worry about, cams are marked with 'o' marks that just face each other and when it 's back together just turn it over by the crank bolt to make sure nothing touches, I'd suggest getting some long socket extensions and removing the six nuts that hold the downpipe to the exhaust manifold from underneath rather than trying to remove the exhaust manifold from the head with it still in the car. Head bolts are torqued in sequence twice and then stretched 180 degrees, if you can't find the old pink passat Haynes that covers this engine then I'm sure Jason and I can give you all the info you need :)

I'd do it anyway, it's a low point from the reservoir and as brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, small amounts can collect at the end of the line at the clutch slave, might be negligible but might as well do it.

sticker in the boot has it on there if that helps

You could, I ended up running another wire to the door as I wanted all the extra lights I was putting in (centre cubby and under dash trays) to come on with the sidelights. Jim, it's actually a long time since I ran it, over a year I think, that's why I'm a bit concerned, I pulled the plugs out and wound it over by hand, the aux belts were a bit stiff but I know the cambelt and tensionner are recent, so it should be fine, as long as the metering head isn't stuck or something!

Haven't been brave enough to start it yet, need a new battery and then it should be good to go though

Getting air in the abs unit is the only real problem, I'd simply use your ezbleed as normal and start furthest from the reservoir, i.e. NS rear and don't forget the clutch slave bleed point and nr the brake master

Finally gettng around to sorting out the valver, been off the road for a little while so in need of some TLC New rear engine mount, as I'd pinched the old one for running the 8v syphoned old fuel out and put a couple of gallons of fresh in changed brake fluid re-tumbled driver's door lock, I now have one key for the whole car, first time in 17 years! hope to fire her up and MOT in a week or so [ATTACH=CONFIG]75309[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]75310[/ATTACH]

Didn't have time to explain some of the details, but essentially the 8v petrol engines (1.8 in the passat) have the smallest starters, and the 2L 16v and diesel the biggest. The solenoid (smaller cylindrical unit bolted on to the motor) is the part that varies the connection, but this seems to be nothing more than the single trigger wire and you could just connect your loom to either solenoid (and therfore starter) with a bit of connector bodging. Unfortunately it's usually the solenoid that goes, they get weak with age, and usually all you need to do is put a new solenoid on, not sure if anywhere supples just the solenoid though, in theory you could just get that re-wound as it's nothing more than a simple electro-magnet. Corrado starter versions, may not be every type that will fit though: [ATTACH=CONFIG]75307[/ATTACH] passat versions (1993 ish) [ATTACH=CONFIG]75308[/ATTACH]

2 different 02A starters, bigger one may be off a diesel http://db.tt/R8WGDMBF

bowdens:[ATTACH=CONFIG]75295[/ATTACH]

check the blue cable, the one that goes in between the distribution unit and does the dash/windscreen to feet flap, it takes quite a bend and the slightest wear or kink in the cable can make it quite stiff. try operating it with the cable straight. The flap sometimes jams, I had one actually break the lever off the flap (well a former owner did) which meant changing the whole distribution unit as it's moulded in place IIRC edit: no, sorry, not the blue one, but the black one next to it that DOESN'T terminate underneath the distribution unit but up behind it

it's the manifold pressure sensor, used with the speedo sensors signal to calculate mpg by the dash, yes, there should be a vac hose connected. the rev counter is most likely an unrelated electrical issue, perhaps a wire from the ignition coil used to give the rpm signal has corroded away? worth checking the grounds to the clocks though.

it's expensive to get done well (£600+) as there's a lot of skilled work involved, but the result can be a more efficient, smoother and potentially 10-15% more powerful head, it's really nice to have done if you need a head rebuild anyway, e.g. worn exhaust guides.

pictures of a gunked up tdi egr valve isn't comparing apples with apples though is it? and how exactly is a system that puts detergents into your fuel going to do anything to an egr valve? and I've yet to see an engine with soot build up on the intake side, has it been running in reverse??? so, where are the independently verified results of two banks of the same petrol engine stripped down, one treated and the other not?

There's loads of unanswered questions, and when it's so hard to get clear unbiased scientific comparisons you have to assume it's mainly snake oil. Slick-50 anyone? I though't I'd ask the guys at the independent garage my dad works at if they knew anyone that had it done and their thoughts, generally it seems they were of the opinion that it might help de-coke and old engine, but they'd never suggest sending a modern customer's car for it, but for older cars we're talking old-fashioned carb or pre- multi-lambda cars where fuel management is not the best, certainly not as clean running as anything built in the last 10 years. I've stripped a couple of old vw blocks down and I'm always surprised how free of deposits they are, even on early k-jet engines, a bit of hard deposits on the backs of valves and often a bit of grime on the piston tops but nothing that massively affects performance .When you clean up valves, lapping them in is essential to maintain a gas-tight seal, so I'd say even if a cleaning treatment was effective enough to remove any of the valve-back deposits, not stripping the head and lapping the valves back in can't be a good thing. If you just want to clean a bit of soot out of the exhaust ports take it for an Italian tune-up :)

yeah, it's just the plug that changed, it's just not plug-and-play if you get the wrong one, and not everyone is happy chopping the plug off the end of their loom, a bare spade connector isn't advsiable as it gets a fair amount of salt spray there through the winter I think I have spares of both at home, will try to get a pic of them side by side for you

Difficult to be sure as the 9a came out in the passat before the corrado, generally a 9a engine would have the later connections though