davidwort

Most of the 4 cylinder starters are interchangeable, as long as they come from a car with the 02a cable change box, around 1992 they changed a connector on the solenoid which means the early loom won't plug straight into a late starter. Slightly different ratings on the starters is the only other difference, biggest on the diesels, but that's only because the compression varies from engine to engine with beefier starters for the highest compression engines, I have a passat 8v one on a Corrado 16v, works fine.

I'm not sure exactly when the lambda feedback starts but it sounds like yours could be dodgy too if it runs ok for a few minutes after turn-off, because the ecu is probably ignoring the lambda signal initially until the engine and cat is fully warm, you both really need the lambda tested on an mot gas analyser.

Actually, I didn't think it was a very well put together program, there's some interesting points in there but it seemed to jump from one fairly irrelevant BBC archive program/news clip to another (perhaps a result of the BBC finally having to do a bit of belt tightening itself) Sadly, the result was a bit poor, not daring to touch on the (possibly dodgy legal side) final owners of the Rover Group and missing so much detail at times it seemed very dumbed down, more play-school than panarama. VW/Audi, BMW and Mercedes have made plenty of mistakes themselves, and then look at the rest of the european car industry, anyone would think only the British are capable of mis-management. The one thing I do agree with is the attitude towards engineering in this country, at all social levels, but that is changing, there's thousands of 'graduates' sitting in minimum wage office jobs that would have benefitted greatly from 3 years of training and apprenticeship instead of racking up university fees, and school leavers are starting to cotton-on to this, perhaps there's hope yet!

just trying to think what gets significant forces applied when pulling away, you can get some wierd things going on with worn dampers, but it's usually engine mounts or rear wishbone bushes, anything that allows the geometry to shift about, do you know if the wheel alignment is OK?

wishbone bushes and suspension top mounts OK?

That's just the cold start injector, won't make any difference in running

I seem to remember that if you pull the plugs from one or more of the temp sensors, that the ecu will ignore inputs and run using stored fixed 'average' values to keep it running. But I've also come across a fair few 9A's that have failed or cheap generic pattern lambdas that cause loads of idling problems, it's easy enough to check temp sensors by simply measuring their resistance as the engine warms/cools to make sure they are giving a value in range and with no odd spikes etc, for the lambda an MOT test station/garage should be able to check out what's going on.

sounds like it could be lambda related as the ecu doesn't use the lambda feedback until the engine is warm.

oh, god, it's got a whiff of Microsoft W8 about it :lol:

let's hope his new CV is better than Jason's (pattern part from ECP), which sheared off behind the hub nut due to poor quality manufacture, do you know the manufacturer of it?

no, the indicators are a different fitment, the comments here are referring to the fact that you can fit early style fogs and indicators to a late bumper and vice versa, but not mix and match early and late fogs and indicators together.

downpipe or cat heat shield loose?

There may be a few in the hands of enthusiasts, but most will have been binned by vw dealers, the genuine workshop manuals for the UK were for dealers only and run to folders and folders worth of separate system manuals, every now and then and individual section comes up on ebay. I have one covering the 9A alternator, some of the related electrical system and cruise control, nothing very useful though :lol: 9A/6A and the related 8v blocks 2E,ADY and probably others are all basically the same and closely related to the earlier 1.8 8v and 16v engines. It's really just the block casting that changed giving it a bigger water jacket (hence the nick-name 'bubble block') Most of the KR manual info would apply to the above engines, you might find slightly different piston oil squirters and other very minor changes like the oil pump drive gear off the intermediate shaft, but I don't think any torque values change. I've currently got a 6A engine that was dismantled and rebuilt in my (originally) 1.8 16v corrado and I had a bored 1.8 to 2L in there before, used a comnination of the pink haynes and 1.8 8v vag engine manuals for that work.

Blow me, you're right, I've both sitting on the drive and I could have sworn the lates were glass, I think it's because they are clearer and the earlies have gone a little cloudy.

they're totally different, and the early ones are plastic, not glass

Just another stealth tax, I feel safer in the middle lane at 50 eating my ginsters and updating my facebook status

I'm in Wootton Fields, you're welcome to pop by, just pm me. I don't have a G60, but a 16v and an 8v, although the 8v is pretty similar to the G60 apart from the charger :)

a 2L 9A will have the wider bottom bearing (VW logo in the cap on the bottom of the box), there are a number of towers that will fit this from any golf/passat etc from 1992 on using the 02a box, some have a ball on the shaft that slows the gears down for reverse but this still fits. just avoid the early towers with the un-weighted shift as they'll use the early small bearing and have the wrong cable connectors/relay arms and different height tower top. see post #13 here: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=37728&page=2&highlight=gear+selector

sounds like the vac unit in the boot has given up the ghost, there are a couple of types with different connectors IIRC, to rule it out see if you can temporarily hook someone elses up to your loom, easy enough to remove the unit, one strap holds it in place under the offside wheel arch carpet.

yep, best to get a doner car, ideally a 4 cylinder 8v or 16v late Corrado, to make sure you get everything you need, but most of the components are shared with the mk3, although watch out for anything 5 stud specific from a mk3 if you are fitting to a 4 stud 16v corrado.

from looking at etka it appears that on chassis no. 50-R-008 001 onwards the 8v got a 3 bar VD0 pump (1H0 919 651 P) and the VR6 the 4 bar VDO (1H0 919 651 Q) before that the VR6 shared the pierburg 4 bar pump with the 8v and G60. I can't see an earlier VDO pump for the VR, there's just one part number (the Q suffix) The info on that ebay ad is not right/to be trusted, at least with regards to the 16v 2.0, that never shared the same pump as it was ke-jet injection and totally different (not full EFI) The other issue is the float/sender, I fitted a mk3 VR pump to my 8v and had to bend the float arm to get a sensible reading, so the mk3 fuel tank must be a different shape, although strangely both Pierburg and vdo floats have 1H0 (mk3) prefixed part numbers??? without hooking your car fuel system up to a pressure gauge I can't see how you can tell a pump is shot, other than the nasty whining noises they start to make

better off getting your injectors ultrasonic cleaned off the car I reckon, and there's no way it's going to clean your cat, as for cleaning backs of valves and combustion chambers etc I've yet to see a before and after picture?

I don't think you'll feel play in a front bearing, but they can make a hell of a noise even when there's hardly any pitting on the bearing surfaces. At least swapping wheels around will rule out a tyre, but I've found that it's usually rears where tyre noise sounds like a bearing going.

Ah, thought I'd ask at the garage yesterday Jason, no surprise at all when I showed them your sheared cv end, they won't fit any of the cheap stuff from ECP any more because of similar failures, not very helpful after the event I know, but from time to time I ask about the sort of things they get back and the sort of things that are fine. The general consensus was fit a mid price part and avoid the cheapest option. Problem for most non-franchised garages is that most customers simply want their car fixed for the cheapest price, putting pressure on the factors to source the cheapest options possible, there's big competition to supply cheap parts. JS in Stony actually got enough 'credits' from one factor from parts supplied for them to give them a new 4 post ramp for free! and they spend half the day fending off factor reps!

that is odd, I seem to remember some issue with the types of splines in the hub on plus axles, more than one type possibly, related to the hub nut tightening variation that Sean mentioned? what condition are the shaft splines and innner part of the hub? I wonder if play developed that then caused vibration and forces on the cv end.