davidwort

as above, fine to do with dash in, I had to replace the air distribution unit as a lever snapped, it's not really that bad too remove the whole thing in one go, just make sure all the fixings that go through into the engine bay are free and not siezed before you start taking anything apart.

What engine?

yeah, on the rotor arm glue thing, VW did originally glue the 16v rotor arm in place but no one ever bothers to do that when replacing them and it doesn't seem to ever cause a problem, I've been bouncing a 16v off the rev limiter for 15 years and never had a rotor arm work loose :)

I can recommend the cheap tplink switches from amazon, 10 quid and provides 4 extra network points, no configuring required just plug in and go. I just have my main wireless router at the incoming phone socket and then two Ethernet cables off that, one upstairs for a full pc, and the other across to my tv, network switch there as the Xbox, tv, bluray and pvr all need a network connection. some people swear by the mains plug in network adapters but that can be a little more expensive.

Yeah, does sound similar, taken from autoexpress article:

that's really interesting, I can see the huge potential given that it frees the engine from the smooth profile of a camshaft, it's like going from analogue to digital :) mind you, the rotary engine was going to revolutionise the IC engine and that never really worked out. it might just be in time to save SAAB..... oops!...damn-it!

you sure VW don't do them, it's just a mk2 golf strut rubber mount, you can get them off ebay and from GSF and VWspares http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=502

yep, I failed to start mine after a long rebuild, dad came around, turned the ignition on and off several times and it fired up fine, pleased but annoyed it was just my starting technique that was wrong :) but to be fair he had worked on K-jets for years and years so knows a few tricks :)

A 16v that has stood can have a fuel delivery problems on starting as overtime the fuel pressure in the system drops. The metering heads just seem to stick, but with the right technique of priming and repriming the pump you can usually coax them back to life, it's usually a problem if the whole thing as been stripped down, so perhaps your fuel pressure accumulator is getting a bit tired.

Sorry, that beam looks really bad, I'm sure you can find a better one than that as a starting point for a blast and repaint.

You shouldn't be aiming at anything, not by adjusting anything on the engine, it should look after itself, but a healthy 8v should be around 0.05, my last mot was 0.033 on a 1994 2e engine, I'd imagine the 1995 ady is similar.

I've a new cat on my 8v that was 45 quid! Trade price from ecp iirc, clearly smaller and cheaply made compared to a vw original but it's done two years mot with spot on emissions.

I may be able to help with some ford vr6 bits for people I know on a limited basis, my father in law retired from fords parts warehouse in Daventry a couple of years ago but gets pretty much a 50% discount on ford spares still, ford bits have become expensive though, for example his mondeo abs sensor was over 100 quid retail recently, in the end gsf or ecp supplied an identical ate sensor for less than he could get one even with Ford staff discount.

I think there's a combination of reasons, it added more angle (caster?) to the suspension legs which provides better stability but a knock on is that it requires more steering force, not a problem for the PAS Corrado but the 4cyl setup was designed for use on the non-PAS mk2 golf. It also provided beefier wishbones, driveshafts, bearings, roll bars etc. the 4 cyl Corrado setup is essentially designed for a 110bhp 1.8 golf, so even with the over-engineering built in that could cope with the 160bhp G60, pushing 200bhp in the Corrado and mk3 golf was too much I guess, it must help to reduce torque steer too with more power. When you look at it it's very similar to the passat setup that was designed for that heavier car and released in 1988 well before the mk3 and VR6 Corrado.

just trial and error, I measure camber, jack up, loosen strut bolts, adjust, tighten and lower, measure again. you soon work out how much movement when jacked up adjusts the camber when the weight is back on the wheels, measure the camber with the car jacked up (jack it the same height each time), camber alteration when jacked has about the same effect as when lowered again, so just move the top edge of the wheel in/out by the required amount to adjust the amount of angle you need to change. It usually takes me a few goes to get it spot on and don't forget that altering the track will affect camber so best to do track first. Providing your track is parallel, then if you get one side of your camber slightly off the car will drift one way or the other, finding a dead flat road is the hardest thing though, most have their own camber for drainage.

Nope

No, all i meant was i used a couple of small 10 mm head bolts to sit on the wheel rim to space the vertical spirit level off the wheel or the tyre gets in the way. To correctly centre the rack you really need the whole rack and track rods off the car and then there are specific measurements from rack end to track rod end centre line that should be set. In reality you should be able to get it pretty central by measuring the number of turns lock to lock and then adjusting both track rods as needed to get the wheels parallel. Straight ahead to lock either side should obviously be the same turns ofcthe wheel.

sounds like the track adjustment has been done unequal on the two track rods, so the car has more lock on one side, all you have done with the two strut bolts is affect the camber, not alter the tracking, which is probably fine anyway (i.e. parallel) as you've just had it done. A spirit level with the car on level ground is easy to check camber, to make sure the car is level place a spirit level (2ft long builders level preferably) on equal height objects 2ft apart on top of the roof just behind the sunroof and the spirit level centrally (left/right) on them on the roof. On my garage floor which is slightly off level I used thin bits of ply to 'shim' my car to dead level placing them under the tyres. Then using 2 equal length bolts (I checked them using a vernier caliper) to space the spirit level off the wheel rims, measure the camber angle with the wheels 'straight-ahead'. with a bit of simple trigonometry I worked out my ideal camber of -1 degree, was about 7mm deflection from the dead upright of my spirit level, so to make things easier to measure I used two bolts to space my level off the rims, one 7mm longer than the other :) Checking track is just as easy really, you wan't some thinnish brightly coloured cord/string or monofilament line, and just run lengths down either side of the car ensuring it is equal distance from the leading and trailing edge of front and rear wheel, move the steering wheel to line up one side correctly and the other front wheel should be correct too, if not then your rear toe is out (unlikely unless you bent your rear beam in a smash) or your front toe is off. I've tried this at home and got the resulting alignment as near as damn-it as accurate as the four wheel alignment gauges, certainly good enough to avoid tyre wear until I had the chance to get it on the proper rig.

nope, but an 8v or mk3 one will work just as well, the pipe connections are subtly different positions but it fits OK, been running one on my 16 for years, perfect idle.

:lol: Very similar to the second hand sealey I have, looks good, belt drive, so relatively quiet.

sounds familiar, done the same thing many times myself, I had one w*$%er that I flashed and veered towards when he was doing 60 outside our school do a u-turn and tailgate me all the way to the police station! Thing about this sort of person is they'll have a fight about something else within a short space of time so will have moved on to another thing pretty quickly, like the other's have said, I doubt he'll remember the car or you after a few days, if at all.

heavy clutch usually means a worn one, even if there is plenty of meat left on the friction disk just a mm worn and an old worn release plate and the effort will be greater, put a new one in my 8V when I got it and it's a pleasure to drive now, pretty much as light as the new clutch in my 1.6 mk4 golf.

it's up to you, 2K paint/clearcoat tends to have some nasty chemicals in it that cause lung damage from prolonged exposure, you could use a filter mask for smaller jobs (I have!) but an air fed is much safer and prevents misting as fresh air is constantly blowing out of the mask. For doing a whole car or large sections an air fed would be much safer and more comfortable, but you'd need 2 compressors doing it on single phase 240V power, one for the mask, one for the gun. It's quite rewarding to do yourself though, I've done several wings and some wheels and when you get a good result it's really pleasing :)

I'd advise you read up a lot before investing in any kit, painting to a good finish requires a very clean environment and preparation takes a huge amount of time. You need a basecoat (your red) and then a clearcoat (lacquer) to finish. I'd recommend a 2 pack (chemical hardening) clearcoat as these are harder and more resistant to chemicals/pollution when finished. You'll also need a primer and possibly acid etching primer for any bare metal repairs. Ideally you need a high CFM (cubic ft/minute) compressor, especially if you are going to use high volume/low pressure (HVLP) guns to spray (these waste less paint and cause less overspray) and no 240V compressor will run an air fed mask and HVLP gun (you need an air-fed mask if you are going to spray any 2 pack paint - and it's far better for painting any paint anyway). You can get a reasonable finish if you can screen off a spray booth area, e.g. make a poly tent inside a garage, and spray a solid colour like your red, as both basecoat and clearcoat can be flatted back where any dust/hairs/flies manage to get into the curing paint, not so easy with a metallic finish.

yeah, phones are dead fiddly :)