davidwort

anyone being a touch hypocritical? how many people replying to this post have used their phones whilst driving? and is it really any different to smoking, fiddling with the radio, adjusting your seat, sat nav, distracting kids etc... not condoning driving with a tablet, pasty, McChicken Sandwich... on your lap, but some of the worst drivers I see on the road are those that appear to be concentrating hard!

have to slightly disagree with that on a 1.8, the KR 16v is peaky enough as it is, not coming 'on-cam' until about 4,000 rpm with standard cams, I understand that duration tends to extend the power band rather than lift, but from experience on the 16v, going the other way, I have overlaid plots somewhere of my KR cammed 2L run back to back on the rollers with a standard 2.0 16v (9A), the 9A has a noticeably flatter torque curve and so doesn't need to be wound-up as much, it does make it feel more like a 2L 8v to drive though, and runs out of steam almost 1000rpm lower than the KR. Peak power on my 2L with KR cams (small diameter inlet manifold + bit of headwork too) is 6,300-6,400 rpm, peak torque about 5,700, more valve lift is surely only going to send those peaks one way? I suppose the way to tell for sure is to fit the ABF cams I've had sat in the bottom of my toolbox for a couple of years :) But as my 16v will pull smoothly to the limiter and can nearly manage that in 5th too, I've been loathed to take out the KR's.

They will make the kr more peaky, IMO the kr cam set is a good compromise and works well on the 2L too, but if you are more interested in peak power than a nice torque spread the abfs will give that. remember that the abf mk3 has a fully electronic injection system and can fill out the torque curve better than k jet with its fuel and ignition mapping. you can get away with abf cams better on a 2L kjet engine as the increased displacement over the 1.8 makes up for a bit of the loss of low down torque.

when they say 0.5-3mm is that the welding rods then, not the thickness of the metal it can weld??

I find screwfix & toolstation good for sealants etc, usually have plenty of everything in stock and much cheaper than high st. Just shows the markup B&Q have as Screwfix is part of the same group!

C pillar stripe reminds me of the a-team van, lose that and it's not too bad.

That's neat, I wonder how that's done, some kind of sensor to a computer following the cam profile as it's rotated on a lathe or something?

Just get a set of abf cams, more lift and duration than kr cams

Ideally you want two flat rigid pieces of plastic about 5cm wide and pry from top and bottom at the same time, I would also warm the whole glass and mirror unit with a hairdryer as cold plastic is more brittle and the locating lugs are more likely to snap if everything is cold.

I reviewed these on another thread a while back, I used the old vw backing although they had to be cut out a little for the heater connections iirc, I also found the glass cut a fraction too shallow but you get used to it and it's only a mm or so. They have survived the winter well, heater backing works well and by far the best thing is the slightly convex glass removing most of my driver's side black spot.

it's not the dimensions but the cooling efficiency that is important, genuine vw 4 cyl corrado rads are double cored, compared to a mk2 8v golf rad they have twice the number of cross tubes and are very efficient for the size, just don't confuse them with the same external size rad from an earlier mk2 golf which is the same length but half the number of cores. shouldn't be a problem for the G60 as I think the position of the inlets/outlets means it's a G60 specific fitment.

Seems a little warm, does the rad fan cut in on both speeds as the temp rises? An infra red thermometer is handy for checking temps, the gun point and shoot type, you can diagnose blockages or partial blockages in radiators with one of those quite well.

Many discs come painted with an anti corrosion paint when new, my last set of front and rear discs were like this, brembo branded iirc, but others come like this too

:lol: google search came up with a forum post from 2 years ago that most of us contributed to http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?54350-What-liquid-to-use-in-an-ultrasonic-cleaner

if carb cleaner helps start it then I'd say you've either got a weak spark or too little or poorly atomised fuel, the carb cleaner is very volatile so just gives it something to fire on really easily, like 'easy-start', if it runs once started then I don't think it's going to be the fuel pump or relay, as if one of those gives up, it gives up and the car fails to run, at least that's what happens with the relay sticking or failing. Usually electrical problems occur when it's colder and resistance is high, I wonder if the fuel delivery or injector spray pattern is weak then when hot the ecu will be adding to the problems and reducing the fuel delivery? What condition is the MAF in?

not too difficult to wire up an old indicator relay and battery to open/shut the injectors as they sit in an ultrasonic bath, what did you use as a cleaning liquid though?

Apart from the rear bushes, that's basically what I've done on the old 8v :) that and jim's old 16v koni dampers and the factory springs, I've always thought the Corrado is a bit better with a full tank or something in the boot, like the mk2 golf, the mk2 jetta always felt a better car with the boot hanging out at the back.

Well, one way anyhow, x6 bags of cement, I was really surprised how good it felt with 150kg in the boot![ATTACH=CONFIG]73869[/ATTACH]

NTK sensor for my 8v was less than 45 quid (seems to be same part as VR), if the thing has never been changed it's going to be at the end of it's life anyway, and seeing as the wiring loom is mainly attached to the sensor then I'd definitely get a new one whatever. Worth checking the connector plug to the main car harness though, but not sure what you should expect from what pins there (main car loom side), perhaps someone else can advise. Ideally you want to get a friendly MOT station to test the lambda value for you, then you'll know for sure if the sensor is giving duff readings

Anyone else use Google Lattitude (on Google Maps) on an Android phone?, be cool if we could track each other on the way as there's so many planning on going.

I'll be getting on the M1 at J15, can time it to meet anyone else.

yes! pretty critical to proper running the lambda feedback from the sensor to the ecu and it won't do your cat any good, unlikely you'll get through an MOT either.

IIRC a litre is more than enough, think it's more than one 500ml bottle though

Lefty loosey - righty tighty joker:

Yep, there's some very minor differences in part numbers but I have an 8v and early 16v and I'm familiar with the 2.0 16v and they use the same parts. The only possible difference is in the banjo fitting of the pressure hose to the pump, I'm not aware they use a different end but the 8v pump is slightly different, it's from a mk3 golf so a mk3 pressure hose would definitely fit, if you can compare hoses then make sure you look carefully at this banjo fitting, everything else is identical, reservoir, coolant pipe through slam panel etc.