davidwort

tail-box is basically the same, genuine vag ones have slightly different baffles, but nothing that will cause a problem, the 'suitcase box' should fit the same too, but the front box (straight pipe with silencer-looking surround cylinder) is different as it has to mate up to the cat on a G60 or the different downpipe on a non0cat G60 to the 16v. You also need to make sure it's an early 'hook-type' system and not the later bar hangers.

about the same peak power, but the torque delivery makes the 2.0 easier for driving sedately :) KR inlet cam in the 2.0 does improve it a little although the lower gearing of the 1.8 makes up some of the more urgent feel of the 1.8. I think I'd probably go for a 2.0 on balance, and generally they have less rot as they are a few years younger.

door membranes are a bu99er, a small opening, even if water doesn't drip into the car, means that water that sits inside the door skin after rain or melted frost, will evaporate and then condense on glass surfaces inside the car

long time since this one has come up! in a very quick summary, the 1.8 has no cat and the simpler but similar fuel injection system - good 2.0 has revised exterior and interior (interior all but first few months of production in 1992 cars) 2.0 has abs as standard, revised electrics - all have electric windows with one touch down from factory (not on most 1.8's) 2.0 has larger fuel tank and shallower boot 1.8 has rear centre armrest numerous little changes, like a cooler pipe on the 2.0 (which rusts) for the PAS in the front panel, better pulley arrangement for alternator, but a lower profile inlet camshaft and reduced red-line compared to 1.8. 2.0 has a lower and flatter torque band but the 1.8 pulls better at the top end and the 1.8 is generally a little lighter, shifter mechanism with weights is slightly better feeling on the 2.0, although has a plastic part that fails unlike 1.8. 1.8 gearbox is lower and closer ratio.

yep, they are the same part

I've a pattern 16v back box on my 8v, they're exactly the same fitment. you appear to have no rear bar-hanger on your car at all though???

I'd check the fuel tank and filter, just to rule out any water in the tank, it plays havoc with k-jet/ke-jet systems. Other than that the meteriing heads should be very reliable although I'm not sure if the control pressure regulator on the side of the ke-jet metering head can have any problems.

If you look around the edge of the chip you can see the same problem, I reckon it's the lacquer going all over.

I still find it very telling that nowhere can you find a before and after picture showing any cleaning of engine components. I've taken a few heads off old engines and cleaned up a few valves and I simply don't buy these claims, the combination of incredibly hard and difficult to remove deposits and physical wear to valves, seats, guides, rings and bores just doesn't stack up. I'd love to believe these claims but I need to see proof! Probably why I'm not religious :lol:

It's had it, basically it's seized, the big spring will be loose in this case, you can free them off sometimes with wd40 but it won't be long before it does it again.

no, you need a 16v specific distributor as it's driven off the camshaft and not the intermediate shaft as on the 8v.

I quite like the Nexus 7, the back is slightly rubberised and you can actually grip the thing, I struggle with an iPad as it simply slips through your hands without a bulky extra cover added. Have you tried the latest 7" galaxy tab? similar price/performance to the Nexus 7. Are you using these as a 'take it around with you' tablet Jim? I reckon the iPad mini (although expensive compared to some of the good higher powered Android alternatives) will take a fair few full-size iPad sales, being able to hold the thing in one hand, put it in a (large) pocket, yet still having the screen size and resolution to see a fair amount of content is definitely a sweet spot. It's taken a while for the screens to get there though, I have a 7" galaxy tab 1 here and the screen is absolutely shocking, amazing how fast they've changed.

I don't think the KE-jet system on the 16v can cope with that sort of crawling forward under it's own devices, AFAIK the digifant system was the first VW to be able to do that, but as you said you may be at the end of your clutch's life, a combination of wearing right down to the rivets and a weakening pressure plate usually means you start to get slippage in high gears (revs creeping up) under heavy load as the 'beginning-of-the-end'.

Immobiliser signal receiver from your ign key, only on late cars with factory immobiliser

ah, beemers and mercs are always an amusing sight at this time of year, we always get a few abandoned on the (gentle) hill near us when we have 1/4" of snow :) It's also a bit of a chuckle to watch over-confident 4x4 drivers with huge wheels and low profile tyres making gentle 4 wheel slides sideways, the shocked look on their faces when their smug, superior-vehicle-choice for severe-weather-driving doesn't pay off is priceless. But I have heard good winter tyres can massively improve RWD cars, making them at least useable. In 20 odd years of driving I've only ever once got stuck in a FWD car though, and that was in a good 8 inches of snow on a country lane where the snow literally compacted under the engine and front axles lifting the car off the ground, farmer towed me home in his landy :)

Only that it's heavy afaik, once it's worn down the extra distance, although small, makes the effort to press it higher, biting point doesn't seem to change like it does on a cable operated clutch.

you don't actually need them, the 1.8's never had them, it's more of a belt-&-braces thing.

Bentley says only replace if there's less than 0.1mm to the rivet heads! think i'd replace it if I had got the box off and that was all that was left! When I did my 8v recently the old clutch was heavy but there was still some clearance off the rivets, IIRC there was only a mm or two either side more material over the old one on the new one, so like Harrier says if you have 1mm to the rivet heads it's in good nick.

yeah, that was the clips I was looking at, the halfords covers seem fairly good quality too, the sealey one isn't really multiple layer, it's just got a sort of thin felty underside so better than plastic.

sooner that minimum alc unit pricing comes into force the better...

yes, the corrado is 10mm shorter than the medium cover (max length) I bought from Amazon, so C is 4050mm long, that came from a spec-sheet/tech drawing on the C somewhere, think I just did a google search TBH.

it fits pretty well, but I found some clip on eyelets (amazon or e-bay) that don't make a hole and can be repositioned that you could use to stop the sides moving at all in heavy wind. the zip door opening on the side is very handy! Oh, and screwed up newspaper changed evey now and then is just as effective as water absorbing crystals :)

have a look at the link on my thread that I added to the post above :)

try saying this version in a hard scottish accent: courtesy of scotranslate.com :)

how much do you want to spend?, tailored fit corrado ones are available but you'll be looking at 100-200 quid, the cheap (lightly lined) elasticated job with a zip door and vents I bought from Amazon is good value at less than £50 but not big enough to fully cover all 4 wheels. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?12282-davidwort-s-16v-and-8v-car-cover-and-wheel-painting/page19