davidwort

Don't put the felt underlay in a machine, I will disintegrate! If it stinks of mildew then remove it, put it in a bath with washing liquid and gently press it, carpet underlay isn't thick enough, you need thick felt and the vw stuff has heavy bitumen like backing to help prevent road noise and droning.

One guy on here a while ago tried everything and it turned out to be water that had got into the airfilter element, so it's worth a check around all the inlet area and give that throttlebody a good clean.

Definitely got me 'corrado motivated' again after the dull winter months :) great to chat cars again for a few hours and meet a few people.

Water is usually the main problem, not much crud usually gets past the main fuel filter, worth looking into the tank with a torch to see if the fuel pickup is clear. The 16v has a lift pump in the tank as well as the main pressure pump under the car, worth checking that the lift pump is running OK too as if they fail they will put a strain on the main pump.

could be that crud has got into the metering head, some 16v's have a small gauze filter in the feed from the tank where it connects to the head. Have you ever changed the fuel filter?

If the sill has rust then you need to get the whole underneath inspected it could be very rotten. From your brief description I'd say the car is worth a few hundred bought as a 'breaker' and nothing more.

I've certainly done a test on the 16v, unfortunately I used my dads tester and he's off on hols atm will let you know which one it is when I can.

An engine support beam makes this job a lot easier and safer, if you only need it once you can sell it on for not much less, I bought one for about 60 quid delivered. a clutch centering tool isn't needed you can make do with sockets and tape to pad them out, it only has to be roughy centred. before you start make sure you have a spline tool that fits the driveshaft bolts nicely and disconnect the battery, engine must be supported before removing the starter motor as the bolts go through to the front engine mount

Not sure on the g60 but all other digifants you pull the water temp plug, rev at a steady 2,500 and take the base timing reading (6 deg +/-1), yes.

I never sussed it, I think they must bend more when newly fitted, I think they're just there in case the nut falls off, a sort of fail-safe.

:shock: have you got a 32Amp fuse or something in the interior lights slot!

reaction between the two paint types I'm afraid, either they are incompatable or the surface wasn't prepared properly, perhaps even moisture in the primer or metal, I don't think it's anything to do with conditions on top of the paint from weather or chemicals, you see this fairly commonly on repairs.

you thinking of something like this? [ATTACH=CONFIG]72091[/ATTACH]

I agree Steve, the quality of materials used in so much copy/generic chinese stuff is scary, poor grade plastic is one thing, but I'm still surprised that an LED or two that pull only 1 or 2 Watts could do that though, does make you think. I had a cheap ebay-job laptop battery, worked OK... for a year, glad I've replaced it with a genuine one now.

Who's the heaviest and who's the lightest Corrado driver then??? :)

no, not precisely, the corrado does share a lot of the running gear with the mk2 and 3 but weight is down to the corrado specific bits, like the heavy bonnet and bumpers, sunroof etc. The VR6 has the front subframe and wishbones from the mk3 GTI/VR but the weight of those parts is little different from the 4 cylinder cars. The main reason for weight differences over the models and years are engines, abs, trim variations and a host of minor changes as the production run went forward, door impact bars etc.. allegedly the lightest is the 1.8 16v with no sunroof and manual windows, followed by the 2L 8v, later spec 16v's, G60 and VR, they vary from around 1100kg up to over 1250 (VR with leather and air-con)

very difficult to diagnose from that description, best you can do is work through things one at a time, check the HT stuff as Jim has said, plugs, leads, cap, rotor, then inspect the air filter and throttle body for water and oil contamination. Then work on to things like a compression test (you can check this to some extent by turning the engine over with a socket on the crank timing belt pulley, should be stiff, easy, stiff, easy as the engine does a full cycle from cylinder to cylinder, then try with each plug removed in turn, see if a difference can be felt). Finally fuel system checks like injector flow and spray pattern and system pressures can be checked.

you always sap a little power with that type of auto box, it'll be a few mpg worse if driven the same, but chances are a manual is driven harder so in the real world will use more fuel :)

If they are free, but you'll have a job if the pads and disks are worn right down and old, less chance of damaging the rubber seal too with a wind back tool

No, but more importantly why are you using 4 cylinder bits on a vr?

these ones fit the vw calipers perfectly: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-1314-Caliper-Piston-Re-wind/dp/B002V72SHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360076062&sr=8-1

I've seen and tried one of those just out of interest, never had a smoking habit myself but my Mrs did, the e-cigs are clever but work out as expensive as real ones and for me that's the clincher, just too damn expensive to smoke :) I can see how hard it is to just stop, but I'm a firm believer that it's the pattern of behaviour you need to suss, so e-cigs are just re-enforcing the habit. Somehow you need to change your pattern of behaviour that allows for smoking and do something else with the time and money, cars, gardening, exercise, anything, and ditch all the people you know who smoke too :lol:

valves will likely be bent, but you might be looking at just one valve and a gasket set which is only about 30-40 quid in total, will need a valve spring compressor to fix it. Not a fan of mk3's though, ugy mugs :lol:

that's a new one on me, we could do with a sticky thread on all the potential leak points on a Corrado!

Good clean inside and out this weekend, first opportunity after the grotty weather, passenger mirror has been refusing to go up and down so I took it to bits. my god, vw used the most ridiculously complex little unit for the mirrors, I've always wondered why the drivers mirror clicks when you move the passenger one, now I know. instead of using two motors, vw bought in a unit made by a Dutch firm that uses a single motor and an electro magnet with two sets of tiny complex gears to engage different drive gears for up and down and left to right. Both left and right mirror solenoids are energised at the same time from the same feed on the mirror switch (white one) when you move the switch up or down. [ATTACH=CONFIG]72055[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72056[/ATTACH] I thought tracing the feed was going to be a nightmare, after working out what feeds did what on the driver mirror and the switch I then discovered the solenoid feed wasn't reaching the passenger side. Preparing for a long wiring trace problem, I took the under trays out and on the drivers side immediately saw this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]72057[/ATTACH] The white solenoid feed is chopped in half, can only be related to all the messing about with the wiring down here for the aftermarket alarm and immobiliser, I probably snapped it myself when removing the alarm crap. still, happy bunny now as soldered up and the mirror works fine again! what really made me chuckle was google goggles is set to scan the photos off my phone automatically and I got a notification saying the above pic was a mk3 golf fuse box!!! How clever is that! [ATTACH=CONFIG]72062[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72063[/ATTACH]