davidwort

no, I meant it accounts for the low end torque when compared to a larger inlet fitted, the inlet is internally cleaned up and ported to the head and is not a restriction with the flowed head, if anything the KR cams start to become the limiting factor over 6000rpm. If I stuck a 50mm inlet on the car (as I've seen done on a very similar spec engine) you might reduce the apparent torque dip a little (which I still reckon is down to mainly the KR cams) but what actually happens is you lose torque at the bottom end and gain very little right at the peak, you end up with a slightly smoother torque curve but less low down and not really gaining anything at all, what's a couple of bhp at 6,400rpm as opposed to 5-10lbft at 1000-3000? The 16v heads do have quite distinctive traits flow-wise which they don't really loose even with posting and gas-flowing and the KR cams are a nice compromise for normal driving, find another KR cammed 16v plot and I bet you can see a similar graph.

KR cams and the 16v head, you can spot KR cams just from a torque plot :lol: - if you take a look at any KR plot you'll see the same trait. No different on a 1.8, just less pronounced, having the flowed head and manifolds also makes it look worse as the post 4000 torque goes up even higher, I'm sure having the 42mm inlet boosts bottom end torque and the gas flowing boosts the top end. On the road it's fine, the power curve is actually quite progressive, you might be able to address things a bit with EFI but it's hardly worth the effort really, there's certainly no go-flat-go if you accelerate from a standing start.

glass and black trim around glass are all that's different

how did you do the bleeding?, just done the rear beam bushes on my mk4 (beam off and brake lines disconnected) and the only way we could get a decent pedal was to pump the pedal very hard several times and then crack open the bleed nipple, ordinary pedal bleeding and ezi-bleed pressure bleeding didn't touch it.

why do you even need a heater matrix in southern spain? :)

dunno, but I'd spend a lot of time looking for the keys if my dad had one and went off on holiday :lol:

yeah, you can make a k-jet 16v quick and a fair bit more power than standard, but an abf on abf management (even custom mapped) is a very strong motor even without gas-flowing etc, basically the abf is the final development of the 16v engine by vw and they did a pretty good job. It's even said they played down the performance in marketing the mk3 golf as the abf 16v was so close in power to the 2.8 VR6.

2 different generations of vw engine and management, a complete abf block and head with kr inlet manifold and kr injection is the easiest way to go if the car was kr to begin with, original spec abf head is better than kr. full abf management/injection etc is going to be a lot of work but if you have a complete donor car then it's doable. you could run a kr head on an abf block but you'll get better results from an abf head on either management. I'd suggest you do a lot of reading in the 16v section on the club gti forum

Have you checked the filter and lift pump, the main pumps tend to give up once the in-tank lift pump has failed first. I'd get both checked out before you put a new under-car pump on it.

those GSF copies used to be a :censored: to stretch and fit and the job is made so much easier when you have to wedge yourself into the footwell :lol:

no obvious damage or issue with the distributor or hall sender?

I'm not trying to put anyone off or anything I just remember how light the stripped tailgate was, unfortunately I took it to the tip but I remember lifting it easily with one hand, the bonnet on the other hand weighs loads in comparison, but you would save a lot of weight with a cf tailgate and stripped internals. Just weighed the tailgate glass, it's 8.7 kg :shocked!:

I can't see that on the tailgate frame alone, I stripped a tailgate and removed the glass, from what I remember the metal alone was actually pretty light, it's just a frame unlike the (longer and wider) bonnet with it's cross strengthening. The glass on the other hand is pretty thick and heavy, I still have that in the garage at home. Don't forget the standard tailgate has two electric motors, the spoiler and mech, wiper mech and arm, lock and catch mech, tons of wiring, number plate plinth and a bunch of inner trim pieces as well as a whacking great peice of glass, oh, and a fistfull of nuts and bolts holding everything inside together.

here's the options, early and late carpets are different shapes, but as you say Dec there's an early space saver one, although oddly the early full size spare one doesn't seem to be listed.

yeah, you're right Jim, it's getting late (my excuse :) )

I thought they screwed in/out with an internal hex key? perhaps I'm thinking mk1 golf though

wow! what an amazing trip, sad, but I remember tv war reports and noticing all the mk2's! didn't know they had made them there though. btw, if you were getting tyre wear on just one wheel then it would be camber and not tracking, tracking would do both wheels

my 1990 has a humped carpet but lower floor as it has the 55L fuel tank, my 1994 8v has a flat carpet but higher floor (70L tank) and I think the carpet is a different shape, so unless there is an early space saver carpet (55L tank) you might have a problem. I thought all early spec UK cars had full sized spares though?

sounds fine, I just used a large threaded bar/bolt and a series of big old washers as a puller, the curved shaped end of the bush really needs a special die but as you're planning I just made do and packed out my puller with random bits of metal, all worked fine, bush pulled in OK. Was worried about pulling the bushes in too far but in reality it was pretty clear when they were in the right place and hard to get wrong. You are supposed to slacken one beam mounting bracket on the car and tension the bushes in place when refitting the beam, pre-tensioning apparently (in Bentley manual), I doubt many get set up like this though.

could be fuel supply problem, crack open one of the metering head pipes when it's stood for a day to see if it's retained any pressure, it should. has it had a new fuel filter recently? do you get a strong spark when cranking on own battery, could still be a battery issue. You need to check you have both good fuel delivery and strong spark when it's been standing, then go from there.

does the fan work well or is it a bit lacking in power?, I noticed that if the motor bearings are worn and a bit stiff and one of the motor windings lets go it will still work, and on all speeds, but not as strongly, and will be more likely to stall and not spin up at all.

edited your hyperlink to make it live but it doesn't work???

Metering heads rarely go wrong unless they have been physically damaged, or in some cases adjusted to try to compensate for other running problems (tamper proof adjustment screw cover removed on top of unit) or have water in the fuel rusting the plunger inside the unit. Move the air flap gently by hand, should be smooth progressive movement with a bit of resistance. The electronic fuel enrichment module on the side of the 9a metering unit is essentially an ECU controlled version of the bi-metallic strip Warm Up Regulator on the 1.8 KR engine. These seem pretty reliable. Your best first steps are to check the resistance of the throttle potentiometer (TPS) with a digital multi-meter, check out you-tube for some good guides e.g. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsX5q3jBeBQ also check the temp sensor on the metering head housing, remove and check resistance changes uniformly in warming water, cold tap water in a pan over a low hob will do. Check for any open circuits or erratic changes in resistances.

might be worth checking coolant temp sensor and wiring too.

gearbox oil is only up to the level of the side fill hole (17mm hex) if the end cap isn't above that you can always drain the fluid out from the 17mm hex underneath the box and re-fill from the side when you've finished.