Mk3highline
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Content Count
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Joined
Everything posted by Mk3highline
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Ask them to check the wiring for the lambda sensor wasn't there another bodge there? You need it plugged in to vagcom and have a look at the measuring blocks
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Before you go change the cat I'm sure you had a lambda sensor fault before, had that been addressed?
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I've got a completely different set up but got egr and sai faults so been open loop for last few months and I'm getting up to 41mpg calculated super steady and mfa is showing a fraction more It's going to stealth the Monday after next to get sorted I hope, before I start on blower Just think it will be quicker once it's sorted
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Good work [emoji106]🏼
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You spoke to stealth?
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But first lol I'm joking my go faster bits have drained me completely at the moment We both agreed my car is a bit slow lo
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A White corrado is worth it lol [emoji16]
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Leave me your car in your will please [emoji6]
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I'd not Worry too much about th chain stretch mate at the moment as the vvt will be fixed to one setting whilst you got faults stored on the ecu Check your earths and post the ecu with the faults to vince to clear/coded out
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Agreed with above
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Red corrado with I think g60 wheels in Daventry at 11:30 this afternoon I slowed down but the white 4x4 was in way
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Looking good Ssw speed? Or the traffic stars?
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Omg Hopefully it's something not too serious Could it be a bad earth? What's been done to the ecu? Just the immobiliser delete?
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Think you will find that with some fault codes the ecu stops adaptation/adjusting fuel trims I have same problem with having an egr and sai faults Hopefully vince will fix them in couple of weeks
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At a guess you might not have closed loop fuelling/long term fuel trims? With the rear lambdas unplugged and not coded out Have you got vagcom/scanner that will normally show if it's adjusting the fuel trims
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If I was you I'd ask the seller the question as the last letters (ku) are missing and I'm not sure Best bet is try a parts shop and physically compare them as there might be difference in the resistor thing inside too Sorry I'm not much more help than this
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Sorry they need to start with BKR the number after is the heat range and the last bit is the metal on the tip it's been a long time and best to double check Something like Like bkr7eku best to go to a parts shop and compare threads etc with an old plug just to double check but from past experience they should be same fitments
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Colder plug NGK heat range 6 or 7 Iirc the benefit of iridium plugs or anything with precious metals is a longer service life could be wrong I'd recommend getting standard tip plugs (£12-20) in a heat range 7 and see how it drives and take it from there If you get me??
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Yeah for NGK higher the number the colder the plug Which plugs were used when you had over furling problems?
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I'm partly sure it said somewhere in this thread that it mentioned to start the plug gap at 0.4 -0.5 thou and work the gap up?? But bigger gap will strain the coils? Normally you just go one heat range up (colder) from the standard NGK So go with bkr6eix or 7 like already mentioned using a colder plug will keep the tip of the plug slightly cooler Last thing you want is to melt a plug and take out a piston
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Will send pm Once I've shipped these two I will sort you out
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That's bluemotion off vr6oc she was at the rolling road day at stealth
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Good to see you today mate Sorry I didn't stay for long or be much help Hope the little drive drive encouraged you to keep the C
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Yeah still got them will send pm
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Same here but with the 4mo manifolds I want to have some thing like this That is for the r36 from supersprint only if we had the space