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Hi all, Well, the car's coming back tomorrow, with all the parts changed. Fingers crossed this is it. The mechanic's driven it and naturally all's well in the kingdom of Rado. Roger, I've had the car almost two years now and it still has scratches and dings from the previous owner. As soon as I've managed to save some money, something more important comes up. Hence the ugly duckling. Cheers, Rica

I am in that limbo at the moment. Cheers, Rica

Hi all, Just a quick update. The relay in the car was black already, but I swapped it anyway to be sure. Car's been behaving until last night, but that is very typical of it , so I don't think the relay changed a thing. Oh well. It's going in for the coolant tube + surrounding parts change soonish. Cheers, Rica

davebirl, Your jukebox looks nice :D I myself have a Kenwood Music Keg which hooks up to the CD-changer connector at the back of my Kenwood HU and it behaves like a CD-changer, except it plays MP3 and OGG. I only have 20Gb compared to your 100Gb though :D I'd be interested in lighting my footwells as well (when the door's open) but I'd need something a little bit more mellow than that. Still looking. Cheers, Rica

Hi, How about gearbox mount then, is it a big job to have replaced? No use replacing front mount if the gearbox is the first to go :D Cheers, Rica

Hi all, Just an update. I didn't go for Radweld, I saw the light. I also picked up the car yesterday as it was doing nothing in the garage's yard. The relay will be bought and seated today and I'll let you know what the old one looked like, whether it made any difference. Problem is, is that the Rado is purring along as if nothing's ever been wrong. Now, the leak. As the mechanic said, he cannot pinpoint the leak exactly, but he thinks it is the (plastic) coolant tube. If he's going to delve so far, I agreed I may as well change the thermostat housing, thermostat and both sensors/senders while I am at it. This must be a bumper and radiator off job? So, I may as well have him look at the engine mounts? How much should the engine move when throttling? Here's hoping I get my baby back soonish! Cheers, Rica

Hi, Where do you get a soft tone 'buzzer'? I'd rather have a chime than a buzz, so Maplin's out :D Cheers, Rica

Hi, Can't but add. Glad you're fine... Just saw your avatar. Wouldn't want to have an accident like that in the Corrado. Cheers, Rica

Hi Chris, I haven't had the time to check whether relay reseating/checking/replacing works yet. I am at work and the car at the garage. What I tried before, was to pull and reseat fuses, especially no. 15 (engine electronics, continued coolant circulation pump (VR6)) and no. 18 (Electric fuel pump, Lambda probe) Suffice to say, am getting at least relay 109 sorted and keep my fingers crossed! Cheers, Rica

WOW, I remember why I frequent this forum. This is the first time I've really asked a proper question and am very happy with all the suggestions. No, crank sensor hasn't been changed while I've had the car... Thanks for that. I have been reseating the fuses to various components, but have never even taken the relays out. Probably 'cause I would've been mighty upset if I found one of them dead, and could not get a replacement immediately. Stupid, I know. I tend to agree with all of you. It sounds more and more like an electrical problem than a mechanic one (apart from the coolant). As I said, currently the car's purring along as if nothing's happened, so all the wiring testing I've done comes back as OK. I'll do the simple relay check/change and see what happens. Thanks once again! I'll keep you posted. I'll owe quite a lot of people a pint once this is sorted :D Cheers! Rica

Hi, That's where the VAG-COM plugs in. Under the gear gaiter :D Cheers, Rica

Hi vr6storm, Everytime I have it on VAG-COM, lambda, engine speed sensor and MAF come up as sporadic. VW just erase the faults and return the car to me, but they come back every time. As the lambda and MAF have been changed and proven to be working fine, I am worried that after fixing the coolant leak, it could be either wiring (earths?) or, worst possible case, the ECU. Cheers, Rica

Hi stevemac, Yeah, I cringed myself when he said it, especially knowing the previous posts on the forum. I just so want it fixed as the C is impossible to drive atm. But yeah, am sure I'd just have more problems if I took the cheap route... :cry: Cheers, Rica

*bump* Sorry about that.

Hi gals and guys, I am sorry for the long thread, but I am really at my wit's end and appreciate your opinions. I try my best to learn about my lovely car as I go, but I am stumped and need some levelheaded (hopefully unbiased) opinions. It's a late 1993 VR6. 86,000 on the clock. My car's had a problem on and off for two years. I am driving along (no matter what speed, what weather, time of day) and occasionally the engine just 'dies'. It stops pulling so fast that everyone is thrown against the seatbelts. Then it starts running again as if nothing's happened. Occasionally, it doesn't recover from the initial hitch and kangaroos down the road. Rarely it just gives up the ghost and stalls properly. Other thing it does occasionally is going in the 'safe mode' where it limits the revs to just 2000, while feeling like it's running too rich (engine feels like it's choking). Nothing helps with this situation, I need to coast it to the side of the road with the hazards on, changing down the gears and trying whether it will start pulling again. If while coasting I turn the engine off and try to start it again, it usually just idles very roughly and then stalls as if flooded. Once again, it may recover from this fault by itself and happily continues pootling down the road. Suffice to say, I am now slightly afraid of driving the car as I never know when someone not too alert is going to smack in the back of me while my car's doing the jiggy of occasional death. Now, the car's been in and out of garages. VAG (I know I know, I'll don the flamesuit), VW & Audi specialists and the fault's never been fixed. So far, over the two years, I've had the hall sender, MAF, sparks, lambda and ignition leads changed. Still, consistent errors in the engine speed sensor (yeah, I know it faults if not running), MAF and lambda appear. The errors are 'erratic'. It seems to have a cooling issue as well, as I've had the radiator hoses and the radiator changed. Both just gave up the ghost, bursting leaks. Still, I fill the coolant system so that the level's between the min and max in the expansion tank. It can be fine for weeks, then drop the level so that you can barely see it in the tank when cold. Occasionally it drops an inch a day. I've now finally submitted it to another VW & Audi specialist (Follett in St. Albans, please someone tell me if I shouldn't). He's looked at it for a couple of hours. He says that he thinks there is a pinhole leak somewhere in the nether regions in the cooling system. He suggested Radweld (dons the flamesuit again) to see whether that would fix it as otherwise he's quoting about £500 to have it fixed properly (I take it that's labour for dropping the bumper and so on). He says that the cooling system fix should be tried first, as all my other problem could be related to the erratic drops causing the water temperature sensor sending wrong info back to the ECU and therefore causing it to put too much fuel into the engine (Temp sensor thinks the engine is cold?). He's noted that the CO2 emissions are also high, which would probably explain the lambda sensor reported as faulty as it works overtime. Should I really Radweld it? I've looked at the other posts on the forum and most of you hate it. I am mainly asking, because I am worried that I don't have money to fix the problems. Let's just say that I spend the money on fixing the cooling system properly (I suppose this would be a perfect time to check and fix engine mounts as well) and that didn't fix the problem. (Mr. Follett has looked at the electrical wiring to see whether that is causing the problems, but as my luck goes, the car's been behaving like a model citizen, thus the wiring looks in working order.) Let's just say it is the ECU... I dread to think... How much do they cost? If they're anywhere near over £500, I won't be able to afford a £500 cooling system fix and another £500+ for an ECU. If Radweld helps me for those couple of months so that I can fix the other problems and then start saving for cooling system overhaul, is it really that bad? Any ideas? And thanks for reading... Cheers, Rica

LOL, Right, I'll start collecting parts (and money!) for climate control. Should take me.... 10 years? :oops: Rica

Davebirl, Sounds good, send some pictures, maybe us lady owners could think about buying some too! :D Cheers, Rica

Argh! Can someone delete my multiple posts :D Cheers, Rica *mod edit - multiple posts caused by The Forum falling over removed - Henny*

Hi, I'll try this here then. Could I get some details of whom to contact to renew my membership? I paid for last year, but have not received (apart from the membership card) any information about the forthcoming AGM, nor a membership renewal form. I've tried this on the eGroup as well, but so far I have not received an answer. Thanks for your understanding, Cheers, Rica

When's the next time you're going to order these? I can't believe I missed this one! :x Cheers, Rica

Yeah, don't worry I got mine, thanks zarman. Trying to see where to hang it :) Cheers, Rica

I am ordering one! Cheers, Rica

Cheers guys, I think I am going to go for a Sigma M30, although I am not currently too happy about the installation price I am being quoted. How important is VSIB accreditation? I suppose I have to call my insurance company to see. Cheers, Rica

Ah, cheers Dinkus... Flooding the board again with questions answered :D I have a headcold, I blame that Cheers, Rica

I am sure this is an age old question, and I don't want to start a war :) I have the factory fitted alarm + immobiliser in the C. If I understand correctly, this has now definitely been rated as Thatcham cat 2. I think it's also causing me problems and would like to upgrade. I've spoken to a couple of other Dub people and most have recommended Clifford... Would you agree? I can't really afford more than £350 fitted, and it must have full closure, at least. Anything else? The reason why I've stuck with the current set up is that my car lives on a quiet street, has not so far been broken into, and has never had a false alarm! I don't think my neighbours would love me dearly if my alarm starts going off at 3am, just for the hell of it. At least, those are the horror stories I've heard from some. Any help/opinions appreciated! Cheers, Rica