Yandards

McLaren.. :) Hello Beigey!

You can get brand new early wings from Heritage/Classic parts. Still no sign of late wings on there as yet despite the remaining late specific parts like bumpers and bonnets showing as available.

Quick answer, yes. :)

Can't see the colours anymore as the wiring loom is all wrapped up post fitment. It was just plug and play aside from the intial wideband setup process where you mess around with calibration as per the instructions.

Use the LC2 on the 16vG60, no issues with the narrowband simulation hooked up to the digifant ECU whilst having the benefit of the wideband information available via PC. Can't remember which wire is which but its never caused me any issues and the engine was running with a large (read atmospheric pressure) issue at idle for a while - turned out to be an inlet manifold that wasn't very flat and true..

What about one side in the cloth and the other in black vinyl as per the actual seats? Should bring costs down plus its a nod of the head to original items.

It is a numbers game to a degree, a lot less cars than there were and as I mentioned previously both the CCGB and the CF have less activity now compared to 10 years ago. This isn't about trying to recapture the attendance of shows past - the show scene itself have changed substantially in this time too. Just to clarify my previous comments about burgers etc, I am not living in the past just trying to add context to the debate as its too easy to comments without all the information. Frankly a quick check of 'how many left' shows how few Corrados are still left around and this reflects the reduction in activity. As for the OEM/OEM + etc debate, horses for courses, hopefully the community can embrace all but I appreciate some folks feel put out, for me its always been the quality of the work not the type of work. Finally in an ideal World I would rather see the Club and the Forum as one happy entity but in doing so one of those is going to loose identity, frankly a sub-forum works best for me but the cost of that has to be reasonable, certainly no more than is currently spent on maintaining a site, server etc.

Like Jim I sit on both sides of the fence in this debate, we are both mods on here and committee members of the CCGB. Swiftkid (and others), I completely agree that some club individuals of that time were rude, arrogant and not good for membership but I do believe that is not the case now. Forum and Club, the last serious merger effort was made less than 3 years ago and the idea of a CCGB sub forum was proposed as an option and agreed on by the CCGB committee at that time to look into it. Conversations regarding money ensued and frankly the number required to make that happen was not sustainable from a CCGB perspective at over 50% of the membership fee for all members at that time going to sub forum costs. To expand on what Eric has touched in and Wendy has also mentioned, running a Club requires certain rules for it to operate - ultimately people pay their hard earned in and one of the primary functions of a committee is to ensure that money is spent responsibly. So in Wendy's burger example how would you feel if the Club was handing out food you had paid for (via membership) to people who hadn't? (Sure if some were left over etc etc) Finally for those that don't know (and many won't) a previous chairman of CCGB stole a lot of the clubs funds (pre 2005 before I got a Corrado) this is another driving factor in how the CCGB spends the members money and accounting for it at the same time.

To be fair Eric that was mutual dislike and the responsibility for the 'split' regarding the forum and club rests more on the committee of that time. The problem lies with the fact the forum is effectively free compared to the club and that the club list a lot of the organised activities via the forum to try to get people to attend (See Jim's and other folks comments about limited attendance at shows). The vast majority of show and trip activity on the forum is actually generated by the club but most casual users assume it is via the forum as that is where the information is. This leads to a lack of activity on the club site etc etc. All clubs have struggled to get on terms in the digital age, just look at the pain Club GTi went through to get where they are now, forum daily traffic is down considerably compared to 5 years ago (used to be at least 4 pages per day now around 1) and there are a lot less Corrados around.

Also worth noting that the gearshift on earlier cars does not have the balance weight on the gearbox shifter to help improve the feel, you can retro fit them but I don't think they will go on a G60 with stock boost pipework sadly.

Ironically I haven't! Glad to hear its all fixed Skid.

Is that ignition on/run or ignition start position Skid? You should only see voltage when the switch is in the start position, if its there when its in the on/run position then that confirms the switch. Even if you are getting 12v in only the crank position its impossible to see if that remains when a load is applied, that needed to get the solenoid to move. The ignition switches are a known weak point on the cars, especially the start position, although the addition of alarms and immobilisers don't help trying to diagnose the fault. To confirm the switch prior to removing it you can remove the steering column trim and take the plug off the ignition switch and use shorting wires to replicate the switch function, you will need to short terminal 30 to terminal 15 (ignition on/run) and an addition short from 30 to 50 (ignition crank). I realise this is a pain to do but it will confirm the switch without too much faffing around. Without wishing to apply an egg suck please be careful and if you can use 4mm core wire for the 30 to 50 short. You won't need to short any other terminals as they deal with 'X' contact etc and this purely a test to see if its the switch at fault.

Ignition switch. The +12v from the battery to the solenoid is always at 12v, when you move the ignition to the start position that then provides power to the relay in the solenoid to allow that current into the starter motor. In wiring diagram speak you use terminal 50 on the ignition switch to get the motor to crank (red with a black stripe, 4mm cable) this then goes to terminal 50 on the starter motor to operate the starter relay (red with a black stripe again, 4mm cable). Plus you have checked everything else and its all working ok!

Could be either starter motor wiring (not much to that just a big fat loom near the battery) or it could be the 'X' contact relay is not working - this cuts power to a lot of the current consumers during a start to ensure the battery is giving everything to the starter motor. Looking at the relay plate the 'X' contact one is at position 4 on the relay box. Finally as Riley said is could also be the ignition switch, the 'crank' position provides a single switching element so this could be broken too. The headlight thing won't show you if the 'X' relay is working, although the heater motor, front and rear fog lights and the windscreen wiper motor are all on the 'X' relay so should stop when cranking - easiest of those to see is the wipers to check that is working ok.

Mileage is somewhat irrelevant on cars of this age, its all about condition. 150k miles is not an issue depending on maintenance regardless of engine type.

At least this is a reasonable discussion on here, some of the vitrol flying around at the moment is depressing. It's far more interesting that the CAC (French) and DAX (German) markets are down more than double the FTSE 100 at the moment.

Nice, I always enjoy cat pictures! Out for me, we are capable of standing on our own and the benefits of being in seem to come down to maintaining the ever worsening status quo and don't even get started on the comedy currency that is the Euro. An out will see an economic downturn in the short to medium term but we are too large not to negotiate trade deals, lets face it companies put up with a heck of a lot of 'issues' trading in China but are still willing to do it. As for the politicians, don't trust any of them regardless of party or country for that matter, so the numbers being thrown around are a little irrelevant, 'Lies, lies and damn statistics' A few other points to consider: Where do a lot of our failed politicians end up? Why can't you get any accountants to sign off the EU's books? 2p and a cat picture: [ATTACH=CONFIG]84051[/ATTACH]

Ta!

11 years now, although its now spent more time off the road than on it in my ownership, bought it with 62k on it and its still under 95k now - not bad for one of the oldest UK cars out there. In my defence owning another 3 Corrados in the same period probably didn't help matters.

JEZR, think you might have cut and pasted the wrong link there..

That's almost impossible to put into polite words, especially given how long you have had the car. Hoping it comes back in one piece.

Worst case you can get new displacers these days, Bahn Brenner in the USA sell them as do Bartek tuning in Germany (900 Euros). There are also a few companies who make a bigger charger, a G75, info here Roettele Tacing

Nice work, good to see some high quality parts being made as close as possible to OEM.

Hallo, Sorry been away, coilovers should use their own spring caps. To see if the stuff will work you just need to build it all up off the car and confirm the various pieces assemble correctly, ie the spring caps fit the shock absorber and the top mounts fit etc. As you are using coilovers its a lot easier and all types of Corrado have an identical suspension mounting point on the chassis which takes all types of top mounts.

No issues with that its all interchangeable and you only have to allow for the faff with spring caps and top mounts, which normally need the internal diameter type. Been running VR6 springs and Koni yellow dampers for years - its a better setup than the 16v/G60 springs and dampers as the 16v springs are designed for use on standard shocks.