Yandards

Despite my recent belt tensioner issues I had already ordered some shinny new 4 pot front brake calipers to replace the G60 ones, this was mostly due to the brakes still being a bit rubbish despite numerous bleeding efforts and the G60 ones have not worn well due to quality Halfords brake caliper paint.. So once I recovery the car from Dave's with a few mods to the pulley system and the inlet manifold then it will be time to see if I can get the BBS rims over the top of these calipers - they were ok when I measured this up a few years ago but without actually trialling them its difficult to work it out. Sticking with the stock G60 280mm solid disc for now although there is a long term desire to fit hats and rotors are the same size. If this all goes ok then it will be the Polo rear bearing swap out and maybe some 2 pot rear calipers with a handbrake application at the same time. [ATTACH=CONFIG]81950[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]81951[/ATTACH]

The first 2 images the dimensions of the seals are on the part number, 1st one is 63.5mm long by 5mm in diameter, if you search for an oil seal to ensure its designed to cope with the oil and temperature it will work instead. 2nd one is 26.5mm long by 2.5mm in diameter, same deal as the first one.

Back of the gearbox on the top surface, right angled plug 22mm screw thread IIRC.

In all serious its seems to be case of have cake and eat it for Greece. Quite happy to throw money at overly generous public pensions, tax dodging like its going out of fashion etc etc but don't want to leave the Euro. Germany wants to keep the Euro afloat as it prevents exchange rates impacting their manufacturing output but if Greece was still using its own currency then arguably it would be in less of mess as the currency would have devalued to compensate. Frankly the whole Euro project is a joke, they can't even get an annual sign off on the accountancy books!

pmsl.

:) Basically you used to wash car with a sponge and dry with a leather then polish with one type of polish - however that leads to lots of tiny scratches as both the sponge and the leather retain dirt on their surfaces, microfibers and mits draw dirt in reducing the damage. Clay bars remove bonded contaminates from paint that regular washing won't, thinks like traffic film, tree sap etc you would be surprised at what comes off when using one even after washing. You then wash again, dry and can use a cutting compound (dedicated scratch remover) of various grades and abrasion to achieve a high shine - think of the cutting compounds as various grades of wet and dry. Finally you then seal the paintwork with a wax - these are either natural like the various Zymol ones which give more 'wetness' but less definition (sharpness of the reflected image) or a synthetic one which used to give better definition but without the wet look. It is a minefield and its also a field that is moving along at a fair rate in terms of development of polishes, waxes etc. If you have a few hours someone like Polished Bliss will clear up a lot of questions and show what to look for etc Polished Bliss

Also go with a knock detection causing the ISV to dump all the boost back to return. If you could provide some more details of the car in terms of mods etc then it makes it easier to work out what is going on.

Alas not, I have the newer smaller style unit as per the 1.8T and everything else on the planet it seems. Got all the spares ordered so hopefully they will all arrive in time, get to see how good ebay and Amazon's delivery quote times are now..

Sigh. Well after a fantastic drive over to my friendly neighbourhood ECU mapping expert it all started going downhill. Idle still a bag of spanners and could not get that to adjust although its not as rich as it was. Went for a drive to see how the rest of it was and no dramas although idle was still rough, Dave suggested we swap the FPR for a 3 bar instead of 4 bar as it causes idle fuelling issues, no stock on a shelf anywhere, Dave tried a friend no joy so we ended up borrowing one from the Golf temporarily instead. Still with a poor idle but not as rich as before we headed out for another setup run - going well until a thunking noise from under the bonnet at just under 7k, ribbed belt was destroying itself. Managed to pick the debris out and made it back to Dave's on a 3 ribs instead of the full 6. New belt sourced from Euro car parts 15 mins before closing and replaced with a bit of swearing (due to V belt setup driving both PAS and water pumps the ribbed belt goes between them) then back out. Another clunk at high RPM followed by an alternator light on the dash. Limped back again to find another shredded belt which had come off the crank pulley this time. Tracked the issue down to an idler roller moving, its an aluminium cylinder with a bearing having been pushed into it - as its got hot the cylinder has moved on the bearing causing the misfeed. Also found the brake servo vac line connection on the manifold is rubbish - probably causing the rough idle. So jobs to do are new FPR at 3 bar, source a new idler, new ribbed and V belt (last belt failure has messed this one up too), recover vac line fitting to make it air tight. Hey ho...

Quiet in the fish head seats you are somewhat outnumbered by crabs on here..

Arguably it 2 slabs, name in print and a photograph.

Last set I remember up for sale on ebay went for over £400 and I was laughed at for paying £200 a few weeks earlier... as with anything its worth what people will pay for it.

Been slabbed for this? :)

Nope they are the same, all 4 cylinder cars have what are classed as G60 mounts due to the Corrado being heavier than the Golf. Only exception is that the last production year of 4 cylinder cars used VR mounts. Heritage are taking the mickey a bit by stating they are uprated mounts for the Corrado as they were all fitted with them - they are uprated on the Golf however.

The accumulator unit is there to provide positive pressure to enable hot restarting and prevent fuel cavitation in the fuel lines when the engine is hot so should have no impact on a running engine. My KR pump has always been noisy, no issues with fuel delivery but you have to remember they work at 3 times the pressure of the VR/G60 ones so are under more stress - you are using what is provided to motorsport as a Bosch competition fuel pump in an earlier evolution. If your fuel filter was that old it may just be some debris working its way through the fuel system - there are delivery rate checks that can be done with a measuring jug to confirm correct fuel flow and a pressure gauge can be fitted to check pump output, obviously taking care with the pressures and fuel side.

My problem is the way we have it implemented in this country, go to the states and Germany and you order the parts through the dealer network - no extra postage or a middle man to pay for yet we ended up with a third party as VW UK don't give a chuff. However it is good to see the option at least even if it is a means to offload old parts and make some cash for VW whilst seeming to do the 'right' thing.

Duplicate threats deleted, please keep this in one sub forum as you will get better replies that way. As for fixes, check fuses first - there is a list on the fuse box cover panel. Next have a look at the back of the fuse box and check all the harness plugs are seated correctly.

VW should still sell them, its a different parts catalogue on ETKA for identification, bottom one on the list when you find the one that says paint, standard parts etc. I did manage to get hold of most of the specific connectors from there along with crimps etc.

MOT passed, speedo still over reads by 10 mph so already had another fiddle with that and decided to fit the German spoiler control module I have had for ages. Brakes are better but still not great, suspect its the combination of lack of use and still a bit of air in the system, might have another shot at bleeding them tomorrow but at least they don't go squish anymore. Next job is house move then onto a spot of ECU mapping..

DVLA lost the plot a while ago, anyone remember the fake V5 farce? DVLAs response was priceless, yes we should have shredded them and that's our fault but we are not liable..

Good video, used to love my mk 2 rocco scala injection, quick car as it was so light, always fancied fitting a 16v to it and then moving the brake system to the correct side as you would have had clearance for it then. Under rated car by most people sadly.

Productive day, checked to see if I could split the pipes on rear beam first, managed to get 3 to loosen and one was going to need cutting so I could get a extractor on it, lucky as I only had one new pipe union nut and VW didn't have any either. New pipes made up and flared using the genuine VW pipe the brake pipe kit I bought a while ago continues to perform well. Rear beam compensator was the easiest job of the day, straight in and out done in 20 minutes! Re-bled the brakes and got a lot of air out, new compensator felt a lot more positive than the old one despite the old one being free to move, notably the brake fluid flowed more freely and I did have to open the bleed valves a lot less - fluid is nice and clean now though and the electric pressure bleeder continues to pay for itself. Took the opportunity to clean the rear wheel whilst they were off, came up nicely. Final check with it back on the floor and the brake pedal feels good and firm right now, have to check again tomorrow to see if it acquires air again. Only original brake lines on the car are now one rear line from the compensator to the rear beam and the front pair - all of which will need doing over the next couple of years - not bad for a car that's over 25 now.

Failed, need to replace the O/S rear beam solid brake line and the N/S one is an advisory so will do that too. Brake compensator has just arrived so I am off out in a bit to get those jobs done and in for a re-test on Tuesday. Everything else is a pass but 2 advisories issued for slight play in rear wheel bearings - which is fine as they as supposed to have that, must get around to the 'proper' rear bearing modification.

Ian, its a lot more central which is good. Well the run down the hill to drop it off for the MOT was not good, brake pedal back to full squishy mode, so I am getting air into the system somewhere, that and I was reminded that it runs very badly cold! After a spot of thinking and some digging I suspect the rear beam brake compensator is shot, it moved freely when I was bleeding the brakes yesterday and stayed there, forgot that it should be stiff to move.. So a new one is on route after tracking down a proper ATE flavoured item - not too annoyed as the original has been there since 1989 and is one of the few parts of the brake system that has not been replaced or overhauled. It may still go through the MOT as you only need to achieve drum brake performance after all.

Brize, 1st time I have got something I wanted off the list of 3 since 1998, finally got a ground eng job on Hercs.