Yandards

Er a 16v one is exactly the same, in fact any other Corrado bar a VR6 is the same. As Rado Steve said the differences are when you move onto the radiator support panel/cross member and in that case an 8v one will do as well as a G60 one.

Duplicate post deleted in suppliers forum to prevent confusion.

First of all as you say lucky it was at low speed. Looking at the pictures and I am guessing the balljoint bolt holes on the centre and rear are ok it seems that they were not through the balljoint holes themselves and have been like that for quite some time - in fact looking at the anti roll bar link bolt thread (which is obviously new) they are much older. Not sure what work aside from tracking you had done and if it was just toe in/out or a full camber/caster check too - which it should have failed. Dig out any receipts you may have as a starter for ten as they may well argue they did not disturb the balljoint - they should have spotted it though.

Update on progress so far. After rebuilding the car ready for the CCGB National Day at RIAT and managing to get it buffed up, I popped out for a quick shakedown and some fuel on the Saturday night before, car feels a lot more responsive on throttle and revs much better - idle still not great as its hunting around the 750 RPM mark but again better than before and the fuel stink from the catch can has pretty much gone. Drive over to RIAT was good, brakes not bedded in yet so can't really report on those as an upgrade, stopped at RIAT and the car wouldn't start again - battery is fecked, I knew it was a bit ropey but it has been ok up until then. Luckily the next Corrado to arrive appeared with a jump starter in the boot (thanks Sarah and Neil) so got it going and kept it running through the various checkpoints etc. This presented another issue - cooling, whilst I didn't see anything higher than 112 deg C oil and 100 deg C water temp in traffic during the morning or afternoon the fan is already running at full speed and I had the heater on full blow as well, on a brighter note more heat usually means more power being generated.. As I wasn't really driving the car hard I think my coolant system lacks a bit of capacity especially when stuck in traffic, options for the future include trying to squeeze the largest radiator fitted to the Corrado in there - the G60 aircon one at 675mm core width but I will need to tweak mounting holes in the rad support panel as I am one hole over due to the intercooler pipework at the battery end of the engine bay. I have been trying to source a small fan to fit behind the oil cooler for a while with the intent of running that from the stage 2 temp selection on the fan, as the oil cooler sits where the stock intercooler lives on the G60 it has its own airduct direct from the front lower grille so would respond well to that. Finally managed to get a Spal fan complete with shroud - its about 10mm too width and 20mm too short on the shroud to correctly fit my narrow (115mm) 19 row oil cooler but will be better than just shoving a fan straight on the back. [ATTACH=CONFIG]82023[/ATTACH]

Clutch will be fine - its the same power going in after all. As for more go then yes a pulley will help along with charger porting etc.

Assuming its a right hand one then its part number 535805826A (should be on the item) and you can still get them new via VW Heritage/Classic parts. Linkage £40.81.

Ta so far, seems like my idle leak is still there just not as bad, having just driven the car for the first time since sticking it back together (again) its quicker than it used to be and sharper on the throttle. Boost gauge is making a weird noise when coming off throttle mind!

Good few days of work. Yet another German supplier of spare parts has failed to deliver on time despite their website stating 'stock' against all the bits I ordered. Had to make a dash for spares supply (some brake pipe unions) as the drivers side front solid line nut was not coming undone, made up a new line and completed the caliper fit and then bled the brakes. Had some debris from the N/S rear caliper which I wasn't expecting so hopefully the pedal feel will be coming back; on a brighter note only 2 original brake lines left on the car now! Then it was interior rebuild post centre console removal for aux gauges fit, stereo re-wiring works ok and the voltmeter on the headunit is giving a reading within battery volts +/- 0.5V again now so the old wiring was not brilliant. Sadly the 2 metal brackets that hold the aux gauge panel in are something I do have but are located several hundred miles away so had to do without for now. Gauges (boost and oil pressure) are working nicely so pleased otherwise. Got the new set of INA tappets through so fitted them yesterday, no major dramas aside from the Haynes MK 2 Goof manual being a lying b***ard about the torque loading required on the distributor - cue some stripped threads and a partial dismantle so I could helicoil the end cap. On looking at the removed inlet manifold it was clear the gasket had fairly good contact throughout due to witness marking - closer inspection revealed some pitting through the casting manufacturing process near 1 and 4 inlets so I used some instant gasket as well as the proper gasket to try to improve the seal. This worked as I now have some vacuum at idle now although I am not sure if it is enough or its just the way the engine behaves normally. Finished up with an oil change, then a good engine bay clean up and off this afternoon for a quick test drive to see if everything is working ok, then its onto a spot of buffing for Sunday. On the still to do list the inlet manifold and boost return are being replaced when the spares arrive, this should sort some clearance issues at the front and fix the dodgy manifold problem. I also need to sort the block breathing arrangement as it ends up firing oily vapour around the catch tank area and fumes end up in the cabin, not pleasant at all, there seem to be some options but I suspect a better catch can with a baffle plate will help and I can also fit an inline oil separator to assist the process further if required. [ATTACH=CONFIG]81998[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]81999[/ATTACH]

Hallo all, Trying to work out what's 'normal' for boost/vac reading at idle on a G60. If you could post up the idle figure you are getting from your boost gauge when the car is warmed up that along with where it gets that reading from that would be grand. Little template below as a prompt: Boost/vac reading at idle: Idle speed: Boost gauge connected to: MFA vac line/brake servo line/throttle body/somewhere else Engine mods: Ported charger/smaller pulley/boost return bypass Reason for the ask is my 16vG60 did have a vacuum reading of atmospheric pressure at idle - which is wrong and I am now getting around -1.5b, which may be about ok but still seems a bit low.

Sounds like you have the high and low oil pressure sensors cross connected. Or do you have an oil pressure gauge and sender fitted? If its the wrong type, you don't want the one that ends with a 'A' part number, it will give a high oil pressure signal and it should be fitted to the low oil pressure point on the block.

Duplicate thread removed, please keep questions about the same thing in one thread only. If it raises on its own via the manual switch then you can rule out the spoiler mechanism, it may then be a faulty controller (located inside the dash near the switch) or a the hall sender on the gauges is broken which is where it gets the speed signal from.

You can fit a B3 Passat wiper motor cover which tidies the area up and a MK 2 Golf scuttle cover will also go with the aid of some heat to adjust the moulding slightly - hair dryer will do it.

I think that's the exhaust ones only on the G60 that are sodium filled, hence this issue with valve seat diameter etc. Sounds like you may have been supplied with generic 8v cylinder head exhaust valves and not the G60 specific items - get in touch with the supplier or if you know the manufacturer of the valve and have a part number check with them.

I'll take this lot off your hands, you going to the club national day at RIAT to save postage faff?

Widetrack is all bottom end stuff and the strut/suspension length is the same regardless of narrow or widetrack. I will say that widetrack in a Corrado is basically a bodge to get the VR to fit. The top mount positions are designed for the original production car track and the intended handling and turn in at production is the narrow track version - having owned both a wide and narrow track cars at the same time the narrow track gives better steering feel, vastly superior turn in and in turn better cornering. The real issue you need to address with the suspension is ensuring that the spring and dampers are well matched to one another and that the springs are designed for the weight of the car - given the Corrado is closer to MK 3 Golf in weight I would go with those.

VW Part number is 1H0412341 for the items you want, no sign on ebay aside from the states, not sure if VW still stock them, Heritage is another option or vwspares.co.uk list them on their site but no price.

Hallo, As Sanky has already touched on a good quality transmission oil will make the world of difference, VW 1st and 2nd syncros are not good from cold and some oil will fix that - recommended route would be some Redline MTL 90 although any good fully synthetic gear oil will help. All 4 cylinder gearboxes will fit ok as long as they are 02A type ones, the 16v has much shorter ratios which are not appropriate for a G60 (70 mph sees around 3.5k RPM) so I would hunt about for a G60 one. Out of interest as I don't know where my old nugget is now is the reg J*** JGU?

Yes and front only.

Later springs used a smaller top plate for better ride quality, all aftermarket springs use the wider earlier style spring plate. Get some of those and you will have no problems.

Dragon Green, Doing some digging and it looks like Hi-Spec re-drill the D813 discs, I have managed to find some alternative items that may fit off the shelf from a Renault Captur of all things - you might need 3mm more wheel width clearance and 3mm milling off the caliper carrier to hub mounting face but its a once only application instead of mucking around getting 4 x 100 PCD holes drilled in discs.. Only other issue is that the centre bore hole diameter is 4mm smaller than stock but only 2.5mm smaller than the Ford disc. Please see attachment for disc images and comparison info: [ATTACH=CONFIG]81967[/ATTACH] In other news, the inlet manifold is off - its not 100% flat so a new one is on order along with a boost return re-jig too. Ripped out the centre console so I can wire in the additional instrument gauges (boost and oil pressure) and then spent the afternoon re-wiring the stereo after the horrific job I seem to have done 10 years ago, decided to label a few wires just so I know next time I am in the area. Might do the full set of tappets while I have the inlet off - it still sounds quite tractor like at idle despite the other issues and its a bit easier in terms of access. Nothing like a 2 week deadline for getting the car back in one piece and it still needs a good polish too!

Corrado bungee strikes again! Good luck in the hunt - have a look at what parts you can't get anymore so you know what you may need..

Yup, EBC part number is D813 and they are listed as from a range of Fords including the Mondeo 4WD, Cougar and others, although it seems to have a bigger centre bore. Will do some measuring and report back. I can get belts easy enough as its 6pk and then the length in mm, its just not easy to work how a pulley size increase from 78mm up to 90mm when the belt is in contact with 270 degrees of that pulley will have on overall belt length, 6mm is the radial increase at max in each 90 degree segment so a belt length increase of 18mm should be about right from the 1510mm version I am running at the moment.

One step forward two back.. Got most of my required spares to sort the belt issue along with a new FPR at 3 bar instead of 4 bar. Had to order some belts for collection as Amazon failed to meet their delivery quote and have still not managed to get one belt here yet. Got the belt system rebuilt and have about the right tension on the damper - still need to replace one pulley for a stock G60 item along with a slightly longer belt to suit but its all off the shelf VW stuff then as alongside the G60 idler pulleys the other 2 are 1Z diesel engine cambelt idlers. Temp repair on the inlet manifold servo vacuum line sorted, started her up and she still runs badly at idle. Much head scratching and then fired up the MFA into diagnostic mode to provide a boost pressure reading - pretty much running at atmospheric pressure at idle which is rubbish. Lots of hoses squeezed, disconnected and generally fiddled with but no change in either the reading or the idle condition sadly. Called it a day there to get her back home where I can do some proper investigation. Went out this morning to trial fit the new brakes, the discs still had the EBC part number on them so I now know they are from a Ford and that the offset is about 5mm more than a stock G60 disc. Sadly the calipers don't quite clear the G60 BBS wheels - a mere 3mm infact, so I am ordering some 5mm spacers for all 4 wheels, not ideal but as I am on 195 width tyres they will be 5mm under 205 width tyres when fitted. As for the idle issues I suspect the inlet manifold may be a bit dodgy, so will be removing after lunch for a check, taking it off also gives better access to the other components that may be at fault. On a brighter note there must be more performance in the engine given the vacuum/boost leak! :)

I didn't want to move away from stock wheel size of 15" as that is what the car is designed for so good to know they fit under Estorils. Not compared the supplied disc offset with the stock G60 items as I don't have the car at the moment - will do that when I do the conversion, hopefully I can work out what the discs are off too.

From Hi-Spec direct, complete kit including, hoses, fixings, brackets, pads, discs and brake fluid. A somewhat eye watering £662 inc VAT and delivery. But a refurbed set of G60 calipers (which all look a bit rough now) are around the £120 inc delivery mark, pads are £40, discs are about another £100 and a set of caliper carriers (used) £80. Throw in a set of calpier carrier refurb kits at about £5 a piece and its not too bad. A bit nervous regarding the wheel clearances and Hi-Spec have had a very bad reputation in the past but less issues in the last 3 years it seems. Obviously this kit is the MK 2 Golf one they sell but the mounting brackets and calipers should suit a VR.