Yandards

It's all about condition on any car but that becomes an absolute with the age Corrado's are now, a car kept in a dry garage all its life will have considerably better interior plastic and exterior rubber trim condition as its not been exposed to as much UV light. Low mileage is not a bad thing in terms of interior wear and mechanical items can always be overhauled so mileage can come into play but frankly you need an example like Chris Gaskell's old Storm for that to factor into price. However, all this random price speculation at the moment and the fact that cars are definitely selling for around these silly prices is an indicator of future value for any good example.

Engine type would be helpful but guessing its a 16v? If it is a 16v its the temp sensor for the after run on fan control.

Just completed a quick MOT history check on this, its been parked up since April '07 when it showed 25k miles. Put in for a MOT on 11 May 16 and failed with a laundry list of items (consumables though like tyres, brake discs etc.). It may well be a 26k car but its also clearly been stored outside during its lay up period looking at the state of the rear number plate.

To clarify at pedal to the floor it should look like the second image, you can see where the second, larger internal butterfly valve (black plastic cam shaped one) is being driven by the first one. I think the setup belongs to dirty torque if I remember correctly.

Yes it should move the secondary butterfly valve, if you look inside the throttle body the 'first' movement opens the smaller valve and the 'second' movement opens the bigger valve and closes the boost return valve too. Throttle cable is adjusted at the throttle body, the ridges on the cable outer are used to change the length of the outer increasing the tension - you also need a small clip to achieve this, finally there should also be a bracket on the throttle body for the whole assembly to clip into.

16v one from a Corrado if I remember correctly, you can twist the various joints if you are careful to get it to run straight like that.

I can't view it either..

It does have some performance based improvements too as it reduces the pressure restriction the black silencer box makes, although too many mods will need a custom ECU map to see the full benefit.

Nice work, good to see some proper recovery work going on.

An ASD 5th gear cog is the longest one you will find (its from a MK 3 TDI box) but it only drops the revs by about 250 RPM IIRC. Problem is the final drive, it's quite short on the valvers hence the higher RPM.

If you look at both pulleys I suspect the 049 109 111C one has a single dot on one tooth on the side for timing purposes - that is the intermediate shaft one. The 037 109 111 should have 2 dots on one side and a line on the other, that's for the camshaft. As for why ETKA now displays the same part number for both, they are interchangeable in terms of number of teeth, dimensions etc but if you bought a new camshaft one it would lack the 'proper' G60 timing marks.

You adjust the linkage length so the pin fits freely to get it to fit - its not an issue to do this as with the pedal in the spring loaded return position it is 'at rest'. As the brake servo is in contact with the plunger on the master cylinder then you are simply setting the rod position to the pedal resting position. So there is no issue with either your brake master cylinder or the servo.

Not overly useful for a Corrado either - you won't get that alternator mounted with that kit due to the brake servo being in the way.

Agreed but in terms of looking for discrepancies with replacement instrument clusters, potential clocking issues and any advisories on previous MOTs it is very helpful. At the end of the day an old second hand car is just that, even a full dealer service history can be faked with little effort and even when they have been in the dealer it is no guarantee the work has been done. A friends VR he had back in 2006 came with a full VW service history and had supposedly has a brake fluid replacement less than 2000 miles and 6 months prior - both rear bleed nipples were seized and rusted up and the fluid that came out into a jar was half black..

Tried them back when they first came out - rubbish and my standard wipers and arms work fairly well. Oh and holy thread resurrection!

In terms of mileage old MOTs are the only way to go, you can also access all old MOT information from when the switched to digital MOTs (2005) from here: https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history You only need the reg number and vehicle make now.

Yep then you pay for what you use. Can't see them going back to 25 years but 40 is a bit mad but better than nothing. What's weird is that for tax purposes a company classic car is anything over 15 years old - go figure..

The VAG COM canbus one works fine with pretty much everything..

Aux belt for the PAS pump won't hurt and with the brake fluid change its 500ml per corner for non ABS cars and 600ml per corner for ABS ones as per the book for a fluid cx. New set of brake pads might not be a bad idea as they may have glazed and discs would benefit from a skim if they are badly rusted up. Might as well do the coolant whilst the water pump is in bits too.

Duplicate thread in wanted section deleted, please don't post the same thing in different sections. Ta, :)

Please only post one request per item wanted instead of three. Many thanks and good luck with the search.

If you can find one, breaker would be easiest and its a heater matrix bypass valve IIRC. Thursdave, if your heater is constantly blowing tepid along with a low reading coolant gauge I would go with a sticky thermostat as the fan controller system uses a different temp sensor than the gauge. Ideally you would replace the coolant pipe if you have removed the valve as the original recall called for a section of pipe to be cut out, so you should end up with only two coolant pipes going up to the bulkhead post heater matrix change due to the valve being incorporated into the heater matrix assembly.

This is about the most emotive thread on here for a while! Kev, I think the motorsport recommendations of matching the tyre width to the wheel will give you the optimum consistency of the tyre under track use despite the reduced contact patch - this will no doubt result in a much firmer ride which is not desirable in a road car. Dave W, as sort of mentioned but just to clarify the first number of the tyre is width in mm's the next number is the aspect ratio of the sidewall to the width given as a percentage and the final number is the rim diameter to fit it to. As for why manufacturers specify tyres wider than the rim, a little bit of research suggests that by having a more flexible tyre, which is the result of a larger width than the wheel, you get more deformation under cornering - this gives an increase in stability as the contact patch is maintained through the deformation which should also produce even tyre wear.

I really hope that statement does not become ironic for you and if it does no-one else is in the way.

It wont hurt to do the thermostat although if you have not removed the PAS pump before there are a lot of hidden bolts to get undone. I would be looking at your coolant gauge temps - if they are in normal range for the car then it is unlikely to be a thermostat issue as if its making the heater run cold it has to be stuck open to do that. They tend to be pretty reliable things as they are always submerged in coolant and move/operate when you drive the car. You don't need to change the matrix to replace the valve as you can source 2nd hand items that will hopefully work. Can't find a part number as they are not listed in ETKA as it was a recall job issued via a service bulletin.