Riley

Ive got my dials in bits again! :shock: cant wait to get them finished :D will be the last time i play with them for a while i think...although i had another silly idea today,like the little project im currently on with isnt stupendous enough! definately still to do: finish dials. recover my custom parcel shelf in black alacantara replacing the grey i did it in last time. source a black under dash shelf (one next to fuse box cover) source a drivers side black door speaker grill. possibly doing: sort a vdo boost gauge/oil pressure/and another in place of stereo. fit stereo elsewhere... and then i think thats the interior finished! neil.

hows about late 2.0 16v clocks ian/henny? sorry,may have missed something earlier in the thread...

cool project 8) i like your style,keep up the good work. ps:what size tyres on the 9x16's? neil.

bump,anyone any idea's how i can wire this up? cheers,neil.

its strange this... my crankshaft pully mark dosn't line up with my flywheel mark either,and the keyway/crank pully are mint.never understood it :?

kevin,pm'd you with a pic etc. thanks,neil. :)

thanks kevin m8,just wondering if you can help us out in this topic? a few of us needing diffarent bits,could get confusing! lol cheers,neil. :)

kevin,are your spare clocks g60 or valver? and are they damaged? neil.

ahh sh!tter,none on ebay at the mo either i dont think... :roll:

no probs. 8) i cant see why it shouldn't work really... the coil type pulse thing will work from the signal its given as bcstudent says above,and then i think? that diffarent ones will be wound diffarently according to range thats all? good luck,and if you end up with some spare knackered dials give me a shout! :) neil.

thanks tempest,pm sent about my little project. :) just had a thought... does the rev counter not take a feed from the coil somehow too? neil.

ihi,here ya go m8. pic 1: remove 1 phillips either side of dials. this will allow you to pull off the cover.it pulls from the top. pic 2: use a fork placed under the needle,to pull it off. hold the fork evenly and pull smoothly. also remove the two small flat head screws on the dial face,a watchmakers driver is a must. pic 3: 1/needle/screws removed. 2/the black face will lift off. 3/you should be faced with a white plastic bezel,this lifts off,it locates on two white pins. 4/and then the pulse sender jobby,good to see that this pulls out too. be very careful with this though.its located in the circuit board by use of pins. hopefully,your valver one will plug straight in(cant remember what we have said in the thread) pics 4 and 5: these show how the pulse sender jobby locates with the pins into the circuit board. ____________________________________________ when placing the needle back on,it dosnt need forcing. just sit it on at the rest position and apply a little pressure thats all. hope this helps,neil. :)

took the dials apart again... :roll: :wink: cant wait to get em finished...

cheers tempest.ahhh sh!t...so its just earthed through the body then,unless the signal to the ecu is an earth? i have something to wire up that has three wires: coil ignition live. coil negative. and an earth. :? help!

bump,sorry could just do with a quick answer. cheers,neil.

that is a damn smart corrado there m8 8) what sort of money do the borbet b's go for? neil.

could somebody confirm 110% that im right with the following on a 92 g60... Green wire on coil=earth? and Black wire on coil=ignition live? just need to know for definate before i try something,cheers. neil.

im not sure on the vr6,but the g60 one is located up by the drivers side rear wheel shaggsy. pretty self explanatory once you see it,the hose clip type things that hold it up can be a bast/\rd to undo sometimes.(wd40 etc) you can drop it down by undoing the bolts that go up into the floor to give more room. neil.

:lol: yeah,tempting! will the rubber hose from the original inlet side also fit the other side? think it should do from memory? neil.

thanks for that m8 :D mmmm,may have to see how the lower wattage copes. :oops: and i understand that there isn't a resister available with an exact value near 30mph? ps:any idea what the drop speed would be if i was able to get it to raise at 30mph? cheers,neil.

bugger,i cant view the pdf for some reason :( ihi,just waiting on a new part before i take mine apart again :) neil.

that does look very smart 8) ! but personally i dont think there will be a massive advantage in using the original air box? i reckon it may help keep the actual charger more 'evenly cool' but not really get 'cooler' air through? better having the induction coming from lower down/more direct i think? neil.

ok,heres a question for ya :!: if the standard resistor in a late relay is 0.25w,would i be ok using a 0.2w to replace it? think it should be ok? neil. :)

cool 8) good to hear peoples thoughts after having certain work done,keep em coming :D hows about 2nd inlet on the charger? is it something i can be on with untill i start throwing more cash at it? or more importantly,worth it with the current spec? i think it should be good as long as the intake is routed well for cold air? neil.

nice m8 8) i started out doing the same but ended up with 2x subs in a shelf :lol: never been good at measuring/cutting funny shapes...