Riley

ideally you need the car up on a ramp or something and a big breaker bar. you can manage otherwise though,if you can get the car up high enough on axle stands and wotnot,and someone/something jammed on the break pedal or in the flywheel (carefully) if you get the bolt out id clean the thread up and reapply thread lock (guessing you are using mk1 dx bolt?) and welcome to the forum,neil. :)

decision made greeny? :D :lol:

is this what henny(ian) is using darren? must flow very well to use all the boost thrown at it.

cheers,good info 8) so kr/9a rods would definately mean relocating the oil squirters and trimming the piston skirts? or is this only if using the 9a crank? arent the diesel cranks 95.5mm? surely that would take a bit of work? removing metal from around oil pump mounting etc? is the kr crank the same throw as the g60? i have both kr and 9a lumps sat around doing nothing so... ok.too many things going on here :lol: 83mm pistons sounds like a good start. if possible i want to stay away from having pistons machined etc,so which crank/rods would be the best bet? i wouldn't mind having them worked though,knife edged/lightened/balanced crank and shot blasted rods? or steel? :shock: ps:i should hopefully get around 4k for the sportline,so my plans are ideally a full rebuild with bigger capacity (one way or another) a worked head/cam,4 branch,red tops,3.5 fpr,map sensor from tdi???,possibly an eaton charger,and a remap. realistic if im throwing it all together myself? and this is if i sell the sportline :oops: its a big decision for me...

possibly the expansion tank cap? if you replace it,the blue ones are better i think. neil. :)

how do guys :) can anyone tell me which wire on digi clocks is the little blue from the alternater? is it in the same place as a mk1? see pic,3rd from left my mates thrown a g60 lump in his digi mk2,and the battery light dosn't come on at all at any time. this is obviously causing a slight problem with charging until the car is blipped.ive checked the voltage regulater and thats fine. its just that the blue wire starts the charging process and its not working for some reason. anyone any diagrams or pics/info? cheers,neil. :)

Very sorry to hear that,all my best wishes to you and your family m8. Neil.

thanks bill/sam 8) ! appreciate the info.and sounds like a mean setup sam :evil: ahh,moving the oil jets...was that a case of tapping some threads elsewhere in the block to relocate em? i do have a 9a lump sat around doing nothing thats all... the custom pistons may throw me the 1940cc way though,i dont mind the idea of buying oversize 'off the shelf' ones so to speak. what size is the max without being one offs? (henny's?) think he's on the standard crank? ill be building it myself if i sell the sportline,may as well while the rado can still be used,plus saving cash... so for now: what size pistons for 1940cc and where best from? what about the rods,worth having them worked on a g? cheers guys.any other info anyone can throw up would be cool. neil.

:)

cheers bill 8) samg60? username? just wondering about the possible use of another crank and which one? little more torque? little less revviness? neil.

click 8) who wants a turbo when you can have 300 normally aspirated horses that sound like that eh :D and i dont think vatenen heard him about the puncture :lol:

sorry everyone,ive tried searching by using '2.0ANDg60' etc but i just cant find anything :( ! would like as much info as possible,ive got a spare engine and im bored. :roll: so im thinking of selling the sportline to fund sommet... neil.

good few here too :)

ive just found this thread by searching for 2.0 g60's and diffarent chargers...was interested to hear about lysholms/eatons etc as i dont know much about them. i found and tbh,its put me off a bit... :? and ps:this is showing the chappy in the us of a with the red rado,what the feck is he doing driving it on the road like that! :lol: 8) ! what are the costs of the actual chargers,and whats involved in fitting them? im sure i remember someone having 5 or 6 eatons a while back at £100 quid a pop? :? Neil. :)

i dont know if im any closer to you than you are to darren? but id set the ignition timing for you no probs if it was a viable option for ya. i think its worth,double checking the cam timing (will probably be fine) then checking ignition timing and co pot/air screw settings.and then go from there... i know you say the lambda is fine,but have you checked the voltages at the signal wire while its running? should fluctuate in between 0.1v-0.9v iirc. Neil.

Massive thanks to henny and ihi-g60,really appreciate the help with the bits,especially as both! are very busy with other things. and of course i will buy em both a pint if i ever see em at a show. :D Neil.

like em...

oops,add to my above post a 10mm nut thats down behind the bottom storage tray. neil.

ahh,have you replaced the pipe with a piece the same length and diameter internally? id have the ignition (dizzy) timing checked by a g60 guru tbh,there is a procedure to it,and if its done incorrectly the timing can end up miles out as it tries to correct itself. as for the tb switches,yep on the tb :D if you unplug the connecter on the back/underneath of the tb,throw a test meter on the pins (in continuity mode) i think one switch should be open/closed with activation and one the other way round - closed/open with activation. afaik. neil.

just re-read the thread... did you replace this pipe m8? it runs from the fuel pressure regulator,and you are correct in saying that it wont help! deffo check the basics if you can? and know how? cam/ignition timing? throttle body switches? and double check lambda wiring and the lambda itself. unplug the bts and see if the idle drops or raises? not sure what else to suggest really as im still learning bits about these g60 things me self.i can manage setting the timing and checking a few things over mentioned above no probs. neil.

click 8) edit:oops diffarent models... neil.

ahh,id forgotten the dash didn't actually have to be fully removed...

bugger,was gonna suggest the lambda wiring again with you saying it pops on overun...deffo overfueling then. wonder if the wiring to the throttle body microswitches is fecked? edit:or just the fuel cut off switch at the back. worth checking out? also,is the air screw on the back of the throttle body still there? sounds like it is,but maybe the seal is worn (wouldn't cause overfuelling i dont think,but a dodgy idle?) id check as much as you can without spending any cash and then as a final straw have it all set up (timing/co pot/air screw) by someone who really knows how,before getting it down to darren. neil.

yep,dash out job! 1 bolt either end of dash. 2 x nuts in the scuttle tray (1 above ecu/1 near wiper linkage) 1 x nut behind the bottom tray (where people stick gauges) 1 x self tapper behind the clocks to the left. but before that,you need to remove clocks/center dash section etc... neil.

yeah thats showing the back jmc m8,thought i had a pic showing the front too but cant find it :roll: the plate just pops off if you wanna double check... sounds about right though :D