Riley

cheers stan,just had a brainwave concerning an old factory fit poxhall corsa radio too... :lol:

nice garry 8) !

cheers m8,seen that but it dosn't list a resistor for 30mph and im crap with numbers :oops:

cheers for the input so far 8) and yep,i think they sound fantastic on the standard system with the cat removed,sort of zippy/throaty but not boomy or annoying 8) rob_b,ive always thought the vw exhaust systems were pretty well designed to start with? does a system really offer much more? i know the exhaust side of things is a bit crap in the head but the system? cheers for the idea's,i just cant get my head around what work needs which other work? i suppose a better intercooler setup is ok on its own? or would a remap be needed ideally? neil.

ive done a search and havent found exactly what im looking for. id like to change the speed at which the spoiler raises to 30mph,but i dont know which resistor i need or where to get one. ive had a look at maplin and theres just too much crap to look through! anyone help? oh and by changing the raise speed to 30mph,what will the drop speed be? cheers,neil. :)

ok,ive nearly finished my interior swap on the c,just a couple more things and something else to try with the dials :wink: and then im thinking another set of rims.... but after that,what can,or should i be looking at to get a bit more poke out of it? im thinking a lot of people will have similar work to me so maybe a useful thread? my spec is: full blend charger not long ago with 68mm pully and rsr outlet. sns stage 5 chip. heavily ported/polished throttle body with wedge removed. snorkel removed from air box. decat pipe on standard system (i like how it sounds now) boost return deleted. carbon can removed and fuel breather sat into air box. any other little tricks? or if not,whats the next stage? cheers,neil. :)

id go with that i think...i reckon the 1mm would be made up for by losing a nanomillemeter :lol: of brake fluid from the system? neil.

:( german ebay isn't even coming up with one!

another sad git here :D :lol: the copper washers can be hard to notice sometimes,especially if original as they tend to become part of the switch after being crushed for so long. neil.

yeah,i reckon so some how :) maybe some fancy scissor/soldering work is needed if the printed circuit is diffarent,and some dremel work if the plastic mounting is diffarent also... neil.

is the blue vac thing not for the mpg reading on the mfa blue_joe? i thought the rev counters were electronically operated via the coil? shame if the printed circuits are diffarent though... :(

aye,i think you're probably right there :oops: im just trying to remember here...but i think? the little part that the needle fixes to,just has some metal pins that plug into the circuit board at the back... i may be taking my dials apart (again :roll: :wink: :lol: ) next week some time so i can grab pics if you havent sorted anything ihi. neil.

Definitely not. If you did that you'd have a car that showed 8k RPM at a true 7k RPM. mmmm,did wonder... is the numbering not in the same place? but just continues a little further on the valver clocks? with higher redline too? cant just remember :oops: edit:in fact,that just sounds wrong,lol

could you not just swap the metal plate (with numbering on) rather than the whole thing? its held with 2 small screws onto a white plastic lump thing :lol: and then this is clipped in over the little mechanical bit that is plugged in. neil. :)

feckinell hope you're ok and get well soon m8! neil.

sits very well m8 8) ! neil.

black carpet is in! :D ! feckin rain wasn't stopping me :lol: im just on with turning the ashtray light red too,as i forgot about it! neil.

cool,cheers m8 :D neil.

cheers dave :D may throw the new black carpet in later along with all the other trim i had to remove :shock: after the f1 obviously :lol: and i cant wait to crack on with my next idea for the dials :wink: :-P neil.

can i just ask if the mk4 calipers are a straight swap? cheers,neil. :)

aye,i know what its like m8,cant do with things not being 110% all of the time! you will have to forgive me as its a little while since i played with pullies etc...so i cant just remember whats what but here goes. ribbed belt pully:037 105 255a for chassis no. upto L. for chassis number after L : the same number minus the (a) on the end. vibration damper:037 105 243. toothed pully:049 105 263c v-belt pully:037 105 253 best to double check with your dealer/someone on here as to whats needed,maybe give darren(g-man on here) a shout. neil. :)

what year is your g60? not sure if there are any differences thats all...dont think there are. will just have a check m8... :thumbleft: neil.

worth cleaning the isv out? possibly the bts (blue temp sensor) also,but you would normally see high fuel consumption if this had gone... neil. :)

the black/earth does run through the connector,it just loops onto the 10mm nut just above in the pic. can be fiddly to repair em,you can either chop down the round plastic parts with sidecuts or similar and then resolder the wires (tin em up well first) or you can find another connector off pretty much any vw after 93 with good connections and splice it in. purple one goes on outside... neil. :)

you will have to replace the pully,and definately replace the crappy standard crank pully bolt with one from a mk1 golf gti. you need the washer to go with it too. vw part numbers: bolt - n040 1064 washer - 068 105 193a you need some loctite also,the standard stretch bolts are common for coming loose/breaking :shock: as for the dodgy tickover,have you tried cleaning the isv through with carb cleaner/petrol or similar? its the round cylinder shaped thing just in front of the inlet manifold. neil. :)