JMC

Sorry guys but stick with an original air filter, de-snorkel the box and feel free to open it up a bit round where the carbon cannister would have been. There should be something on this in the 'definitive air filter' thread, but I did a back to back on a rolling road between a standard air filter and a K&N on my G60 - standard was better.

Sounds like you have a low temperature water thermostat. I have (along with a 16 row thermostatic plated mocal) and mine does the same thing. Biggest issue really is the oil isn't getting hot enough, and if anything will be too viscous. Mines a heavily tuned G60, and next time the water pump gets opened up I'm going back to a standard stat - I think it's over kill really, unless it's a track day car.

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Yes it is. Overall switch size is slightly smaller on the earlier ones, and the adjustment wheels are horizontal not vertical.

Blimey, it's got nearly as many gauges as mine, lol. Looking forward to seeing this one when it's done :)

Here you go knight...

Yep, I did this by creating a new plastic insert from printed acetate. Then I used more light bulbs to provide a more even illumination across the controls, which to be honest is dire in the original setup. There should be something on it in my build thread.

Hi Sam, Yep still got this. Will PM you a price.

I had 2 x 5" focal subs in a custom made wooden box replacing the rear seat hump. There should be a pic of it in the first few pages of my build thread. To be honest it was nearly as good as my 10" in the boot, just didn't quite drop as low. EDIT - found a pic.

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Yep, mine has been bored out to 1.9l. With all the work done to mine, the last time it was tested on Stealths rollers it made 252bhp at the flywheel (at about 6400rpm) and just over 222lbft. Standard pulley on a G60 is 72mm from memory, although to be honest I have never had a standard one on mine while I owned it. I'm with you on only going to a 68mm pulley if you go down this route. Thats interesting about the displacement of the 2 chargers - in theory you'll get about 50% more air out per revolution of the charger then. If nothing else changes in your setup the you should be seeing 50% more pressure. I can imagine issues around tensioning the ribbed belt efficiently so you don't get belt slip, especially given the added mass of the charger, and how to get the power on the ground given the light front end. It'll be a fun beast though when done...

Boost pressure is all about how restrictive your system is. I have a 65mm pulley on a 1.9l G60, flowed head shrick cam etc, and even when the charger is completely fresh I am only pulling about 11psi. As the head flows better, less air backs up, and your get less pressure - what you get though is more flow of air. If you are revving to 7500rpm, I would not recommend a 65mm pulley on a G60 glader. They are not as high revving as a G40 one. As for how much it would flow, I presume you can get a rough idea from the relative sizes of the engines. As Riley mentioned, management will be the problem as you may end up with too much boost and the MAP sensor not being able to read it. Neat idea though.

I have a Porsche Bosch 3.5 bar fuel pressure regulator for a G60 available. These are the uprated regulators for use with bigger injectors and to go along with remapping. This is still boxed and is pretty much as new - was trial fitted, but not needed in the end. Looking for £58 delivered, of £50 collected. Based near J13 M25. No pics of this one - sorry, but I presume you all know hat an FPR looks like :).

I have a Jabba cone filter, heat shield and alloy induction pipe up for sale. Used, but in excellent condition. Looking for £100 delivered for the lot (or £90 collected). The alloy pipes alone are about £30, so grab a bargain. Based near J13 M25 if you fancy collecting. Thanks for looking.

With great regret I am putting my WoN nitrous setup up for sale - unfortunately I do not have the time to put this to good use now. I had bought this for my G60, and is everything for a safe, well setup, high spec install. Includes Streetblaster 150i kit (with 2 of the new X-10 solenoids), MaxExtreme race spec progressive controller, bottle heater, ignition delay unit, nitrous pressure transducer for controller and botle warmer, fuel pressure transducer, and spark strength tester. Basically everything you need. These are all brand new in box, so this is an opportunity to get a complete setup at a fraction of the original cost. This setup is currently aimed at 4 cylinder, however it would be easy enough to get the parts for a 6 cylinder setup. Individual cost if you were to buy all these now approx £1700. I am looking for £1200 ONO. I'm based near J13 M25. Ideally this is going to be an 'in person' sale given the value - I don't want to be shipping this lot. This is for sale elsewhere as well so I maintain the right to withdraw the sale if need be.

I had one fitted in septmeber, and have been using it pretty much daily since then. I have a steel liner from the burner to the top of the chimney. I have a couple of spots on my chimney brest in the room the burner is in and the room above which gets really hot. Not radiator hot, but pretty hot. The reason I was given was the insulating packing round the liner isn't even, and in a couple of spots the liner is touching the brickwork. It's not that uncommon really. From what I have learned wood burners burn hot, hence the need for the liner. I wouldn't have considered not using a liner, or only using one that went part way up. And yes, find a source of wood. I work for my local wildlife trust on a weekend, and regularly come home with a boot load of free wood to lay down for next year :)

Right, ok Andi :)

Yep, just tried that and still getting older stuff than the previous visit....

I like the new layout guys. One thing (and this may have been mentioned above). How is the 'new posts' button meant to work? Whenever I log on to check the forum, and click new posts, I am getting stuff which is the past 24 hours, not what's new since I last logged on. Is that right?

Right, looks good - will have to try and get a few, so I have them in stock I think.

Cool so is that the one with the nut on the end as well (i.e. the original one)?

Ok, so then what is the right one to get as VW are no longer supplying them? Is it a case of tracking down Mann ones at GSF?