JMC

Absolutely mate - I have heard the standard setup refered to as 'digipants' and there are few people who can map G60's on the standard software well these days. Your route opens up loads of other mappers.

Oooh, interested to see how you get on with this. I was recommended standalone given the setup I have, but it seemed like a lot to do on a G60 so didn't go down that route.

I was planning no more than 75bhp through the progressive controller - would have ended up with about 325bhp at the flywheel.

Here's a link to mine. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?20906-JMC-s-G60-Dash-tweaks-22-8/page17 In my opinion, if you're going after really big power then it's worth bothering doing this. If not then there is enough air getting in and around the engine bay without needing to resort to cutting things up. If you really need to cool things down then use a 70 degree thermostat - then your average running temps will be 20 degrees lower anyway. I didn't need the cut the bumper iron or the body for the mounting of the intercooler as I just use a Golf G60 one. I cut up the bumper iron as I'd opened up where the number plate was and this gave a straight through access route to the intercooler.

Personally, I would be concerned with a system that is fine if it only injects above a certain rev range and relies on the gas flow the stop it pooling. Given the size of the inlet manifold on a VR6, I would also be concerned about nitrous being distributed evening across all the runners even when above 3500rpm. Mine was single port as the G60 manifold is fine with that. It's based on a Wizard of NOS 150i and a race spec progressive controller and is all brand new in box for substantially less than it would be now (link below which includes price). http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?61785-Complete-Wizards-of-Nos-nitrous-setup-BNIB&highlight=wizards+nos This was bought with daily usability in mind and therefore is full of safety features and controllability, hence a load of additional extras such as the IDU and nitrous and fuel pressure sensors.

I bought a system ready for my G60, and have never got round to fitting it :( (which incidentally is currently up for sale, BNIB, for bottle, kitting kit, and progressive controller etc). The design of the intake manifold has a lot to do with which firing system you use. For the VR6 I have only ever seen direct port rather than single foggers.

Yep, mines a daily and has been for 8 years now. If I don't use it daily the battery dies, lol.

You'll be on very sticky ground if it gets to the point of having the police involved and you are found to have a 400mm knife specifically for the purpose of 'in case I get burgled', and that's even if it does you any good during the burglary. Alternatively, if you really want to go down that route, keep the biggest kitchen knife you can find in the house somewhere you can get at it, a really big maglite (extremely strong, and slightly easier to explain than a random length of pipe), and a perfume atomiser with a mixture of cheapy aftershave mixed in with a liberal dose of tobasco, oh, and if you're in to climbing at all get an ice axe - those are dangerous at every end.

Bump, still available and as mentioned above, open to reasonable offers.

Very dependant on engine setup mate. I run a 65mm pulley, and never get more that 12psi even with a freshly built charger and wide open throttle. Extensive headwork on mine means the pressure never really builds - it just flows efficiently.

Courtesy of Wikipedia Ready to Fly (or RTF) is a term used to describe radio controlled airplanes or radio-controlled helicopters that are supplied fully built with no assembly required. An almost ready to fly (ARF or ARTF) kit is a radio-controlled airplane kit that comes partially built, usually just requiring final assembly to complete. If its described as RTF then you add batteries and off you go... Basically sounds like a design flaw. Sting the b*gger, invoke sale of goods and fit for purpose acts if need be but don't have him fob you off with RTF being a term that applies to things that need building.

If it is actual carbon and not wrapped then I would be interested in buying the grill off you, Martin.

I have a Genius G540 chip reader writer for sale, which is pretty much as new and boxed (I used it half a dozen times for reading chips). I bought this to read and write chips for my G60, and even a non-techy person like me managed to get it up an running easily. These are about £30 on ebay shipped from China, I'm looking for £24 shipped or £20 collected (near J13 M25).

Could be. How was the map done - if a map was chosen to enable the car to drive well while the lambda wasn't working, and then you reconnected the lambda, it will effect the fuelling. Also check the usuals (boost pipe to ECU from throttle body - was that disconnected when yor manifold was changed, is it now on the right outlet from the TB, any splits in the ECU pipe, do you still have the carbon cannister - any splits in that piping, blue temp sensor - is that working right).

Not necessarily, it used to be relatively common practise to run G60's without the lambda at all. If it has been mapped not working and then you reconnect it it could affect the fuelling. Try disconnecting the lambda and seeing how it runs - if its back to how it was before, problem solved.

I'm 39 and I've had mine for about 7 years now. Will be sorry when she eventually has to go :-(

Cool, glad you got it sorted.

Looks to me as though that was part of the pipe work for the carbon cannister. Most G60's have had all this removed as it just has too many places for leaks and to be honest didn't do a geat deal anyway. If the carbon canniter system has been removed, that hole is normally sealed with a blob of araldite or something similar.

To OP, it all depends how much you want to get into the shooting side, and whether you are going down target or game shooting. There must be some local gun clubs/shops you can check with if you are going down the target side of things. You can spend as much or as little as you want to be honest. My air rifle was about £100 and it's fine for what I need it for. My 7.62mm second hand rifle was about £1200 with a scope and a moderator but some people spend more than that on the scope alone. I have an air rifle (had a problem with rats in the garden), and a license for a 7.62mm and a couple of other rifles. I do target shooting only these days, so I was turned down for a .17 hmr as they are purely game/vermin guns and my licence only covers me for target work. Shame as they looked like good fun. Oh, and hunting with a cross bow is nothing like hunting with a rifle (I spent 20 yeras doing field and target archery, and have had great fun with crossbows in that environment, so yes I can compare them). Hunting with a rifle relies on system shock to the prey, hunting with a crossbow relies on severing something vital and requires much more accuracy. In my opinion I'm glad bow hunting is banned in this country - too many people who think they would be good at it just wouldn't.

Words of wisdom as always from Jim and VR6 - go with it as it is for now, find out what you like and dont like about it, and then make a plan. Don't forget as well, its not all about making it go fast. If you take a car designed for 160bhp and make it up to 200bhp, if you are going to do it right, you need to address braking and handling as well.

Welcome to wonderful rolercoaster ride that is G60 ownership. First thing to do is establish the health of the charger (when was it last serviced and by whom). Secondly, what (if anything) has been done before? Any history of it being modified in the paperwork? If it is a blank canvas, then my advice, start with a 68mm pulley and SNS chip - take it slow and see what the mods each do. Then things to consider; Golf G60 intercooler, ported and flowed head with new cam, oil cooler, flowed throttle body, 4 branch manifold (if you can find a rhd one), etc etc. To be honest G60's aren't about horespower they are about torque - delivering grunt from low down. Look to improve that and you'll put a huge grin on your face. Where are you based, there are a few well modded ones round the country it would be worth visiting. Have a word with John Mitchell Racing (16VG60 on here or find him on the interweb) for advice/work/components.

Cool. The z series look similar to my sport comp series one, so should be a good one.

Couple of things to ask Mike. Firstly, what boost pressure are you realistically hping to achieve. If you're only going to boost 10psi, then no point getting one which goes up to 35. Secondly, do you want one which read vac as well as boost - both are very useful in diagnosing whats going on with your engine. Personally, in that range, I'd be more inclined to go with this one (if you are expecting less than 20psi).... http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/78121/autometer-z-series-gauges/by2601.html Autometer are good gauges for the money.

Dont bother going 65mm if you've not done loads of other mods. 68 and chip (ideally SNS) would be the way to go at the moment. If you're going down the boost return delete (which to be honest I wouldn;t bother doing after having tried it in the past) make sure you get some of the correct spray lubricant for the charger.

Mine did, and I tapped into the feed to the MFA. What they may not come with is a t piece adpater of the right diameter though so thats worth checking. Also some are digital which means electrics and mounting a sender somewhere. To be honest go with analogue and as good as you can afford. Doh, just realised yours is VR which presumably means no vac feed to the MFA. Presume you'll have to take it from the inlet manifold??