JMC

Still looking - anyone got one please...

When you say doesn't have a lock - is it a delocked passat one or is the barrel just missing. If it's a delocked one then you are right it's no use to me. If the barrels just missing I can swap mine over. Let me know either way, and I'll send this one back to you so will need your address (I'd PM me that one), and we can sort out the refund. I presume you're happy to cover postage back as well?

Any news on this mate?

Handle arrived today - but you sent a passenger handle with key, not the drivers side one mate..... Gutted only realised once the door was stripped down. Do you have a drivers one please?

Yep absolutely mate - will sort that now.

Blimey, I'd forgotten about this one. One of the funniest threads I've ever read....

Cheers mate, that would be great :) EDIT - just to make sure, does it have the central looking electrical connections as well please?

Do you have a working drivers side door handle and key please?

I'm after a working drivers side door handle and key please (from a central locking , early style car if they are any different). Let me know what you've got :)

Isn't there a RR day planned for May at Stealth as well?

Are you after an early or a late wing?

I must admit, if I hadn't recently bought a house I would have been interested in one of these (especially as I already have the carbon bonnet). As John says these are a must really if you want to make your car into something special. Mikes carbon work is excellent, so come on folks roll up...

I must admit I have been wondering this - whether running temps effect mpg - for my G60 over winter. My MPG has gone down almost 10% since the weather got cold, and I'm wondering whether there is a link. I also have a loose baffle in my exhaust which could be screwing things up. Grrr. If have chnaged the exhaust drastically then it could do with a remap as it'll vary the way in which the engine removes gasses.

ABS and heated seats, are the usual ones mate, but it depends on whether you have either of them ;) EDIT - doh, too slow....

Sounds like a good setup. What boost pressure are you running normally then mate? If you are above 14psi then your map sensor wont be able to read any further increases anyway (standard ones are 1 bar sensors). People do use them but be aware that you are stopping the ISV doing one of it's key functions - bleeding off boost when it needs to. The consequence of this is melting your pistons if you go too lean. Up to you though. I do a boost reroute into my inlet which is similar, but my peak boost pressure is only 11psi given a heavily ported head therefore I still have a few psi lee way where the MAP sensor will still read the pressure. If you are around 14psi and then you over boost the ECU wont know what pressure you are at and can't fuel correctly in response.

Thought my ears were burning, lol. Whats you're setup at the moment Slim_CRX? The check valves are a bad idea, as you wont be able to bleed off boost of there is a problem in the intake system or with knock. Also if you raise your boost pressure you'll need a remap to get extra fuel in to make the best of it otherwise you'll be running lean. Getting more power from a G60 is down to good mapping as much as anything else. If you haven't got a 68mm pulley fit one, if thats not enough fit a 65mm but be ready for frequent rebuilds. Most importantly get a good chip to match your setup (G-werks or DG). Fit an FMIC, 4 branch exhaust manifold and decent exhaust as well. To be honest, things like check valves add little and increase the risks of problems.

My boost gauge is up on the right hand side of the dash near the a pillar. There'll be a pic in my build thread somewhere near the beginning. It's one of those gauges you really want to be in your line of sight. I took mine off the pipe behind the clocks as it was one less pipe in the engine bay and one less pipe to feed through the firewall. AFAIK the airboxes are G60 corrado specific, though I must admit I have never looked at a Golf G60 or Rallye one before so am not 100% on that. Unless you have a very heavily modified engine the twin intake is overkill from a performance point of view. I also remember an instance of the plastic on the intake box of one of those twin intakes coming loose and being sucked through a charger. Not good. Mines running just under 250bhp and is perfectly happy with a standard(ish, bar a few holes) air box and normal paper filter. Best thing to do initially is save for a FMIC (and a decent ECU map if you haven't got one already). The next best thing to get is a separate oil cooler system. Personally I would worry about boost returns yet.

Don't worry about rambling, we all do it, lol. I returned to having the boost return attached because of 2 things really. 1st, I hated the constant whislte on part throttle. 2nd I hated the mist of oil over everything. With mine I hae rertouted the ISV into the inlet pipe and blanked of the ISV input to the boost return pipe. But as I say I have only done this becuase I have relatively low boost pressure on full boost. Some people love the sound though, and that's cool for them. Boost pressure is really a measure of unused air. If the charger is pushing a certain amount of air, and you are measuring pressure, then a system with less restrictions in it will have a lower pressure measured. So for example if your head is flowed well, and your cam is setup well, then there would be less restrictions in your inlet system and the measured pressure would be lower. Also you get pressure drop over larger intercoolers, so adding an FMIC will lower your measured pressure. But there should be better cooling which should make the charge denser, and therefore up your pressure a bit. It is complicated, but the key to making a G60 work better is to get it to breathe better. How are you measuring boost pressure? If you are using the MFA one don't bother, and get a proper boost gauge (preferably a boost and vacuum gauge). Plumb it in to the line going to the back of the clocks. Standard air box and paper filter are fine (with a bit of opening up the air box on the wing side).

I currently pass the output of the isv into the intake pipe, and I saw perhaps 1/2 psi increase in boost pressure. The only problem with do this, is if for any reason the ECU needs to vent boost pressure it now can't do it. So say the throttle jams open it now can't vent any excess air. On my setup the boost pressure is quite low (11psi at WOT) as I have quite a heavily flowed head, so it should never fingers crossed be a problem. It seems to be a popular thing to do in the US (loads of people on the Vortex have done it) but much less so here. Having tried various different arrangements I have gone back to boost return on and stayed with ISV into the intake. Like you I hated the oil mist floating round the engine bay. Do you have a bigger FMIC - if so there is no real need for the boost return anyway as the larger surface of the FMIC will be more than enough to cool any intake charge, which has beeen heated by passing through the boost pipework system already. I'd be worried about the BOV giving too quick a chnage in boost pressure and being a shock to the charger. Only ever seen one on BBM's corrado with a lysholm charger, but that was because there there was no boost return system AFAIK. Of course the big question is do you just want to do it to try it, or are you expecting more of a performance benefit from it?

I have done the boost return before, but I blanked off the charger and then used a cut down boost return pipe, feeding in the ISV and crank breather to it, to reduce the general and continual background whistle on part throttle. I went back to normal in the end but it was a good mod while it lasted. I also :ahem: have my old blanking plate and silencer kit for sale at the moment if you're interested. Shameless plug.... http://www.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?53776-G60-boost-return-silencer-and-charger-blanking-plate Not sure how many have done it the way you suggested though...

Ouch - last I heard they were about £100 from VAG. Must be the usual price hikes...

Heard too many horror stories about non vag radiatiors to buy anything other than a normal one from the dealers...

I never knew that Yan - will go and dial mine down later....

G-werks one are good, but nearly £400 from memory. You get what you pay for I suppose.

Just been down there to have some work done on the G60 (swapping over my newly rebuilt charger for my old and knackered one). As always such a good day out, and good to spend time with someone passsionate and knowledgable about the G60's. Thanks Darren :)