JMC

That is really weird - looks like someone might have had a 1 way check valve in there, taken it out and nueeded to fill the gap with something. That hose should be one piece end to end. You can just replace it with 19mm ID hose from halfords to see whether it effects your idle.

Had really good customer service today when ordering some parts from VW and it got me thinking. I live in the London area, and very often when I ring up for parts at local garages I either can't get through, or I'm told that I have to go and pay before they'll even order them. Nice, not what I need. This time I rang the garage local to my folks in Yorkshire as I am off up there next week. Person picked up the phone, and I got a 'Sorry sir, the parts guy is busy, can have I have your name and number and he'll call you back'. Yeah I thought, like that'll happen. Anyway, 5 mins later get a call. "how can we help?". Gave the guy a list of parts. "Yep we can get those, they'll be in saturday". Didn't want payment up front, no worries if I go in next week and get them. Thank you very much. Funny how there is such a difference in customer service levels, and without wanting to further the north south divide debate (as that'll be about as unbiased as the VR6/G60 debate), it seems to be the further away from London I get the better the service. Must be the stress down here :lol:. Anyway, ramble over....

Could be a file size issue - this forum doesn't like too big image files. From your description it definately isn't a factor fit part.

Big thumbs up for Leonard for the giant toblerone :lol: and one of the biggest laughs our Goods In guys have had in ages.

Welcome back Jon :D

Some people should not be allowed to drive :shock:

Usual thing when this happens it is either the ECU relay or the Fuel pump relay - replace them both (about £20 from VW). Have a serach on here, comes up quite often.

Did you have a look at the dim dip resistor as mentioned above - this'll have an impact of brightness. It's the big yellow resistor usually on the inside of the passenger wing.

I would go back to standard reg and the chip you are running at the moment then as you are planning to do. I'd definately follow up with whoever made the chip though - the right chip on a good setup transforms the G60 engine.

G60's are sensitive to fuel pressure regulators. Most people either use the standard one or a porsche 3.5bar one instead. I don't know of anyone using adjustable ones and I have been advised against them by a few tuners. Find out from the guy who had it previously who wrote the chip - they should be able to give you a proper answer as to what the chip is meant to be run with.

Lazy route with me - booked in with Vince for the 18th September :lol:

Cool, thanks. I have a horrible feeling it's never been changed (he says he's never done it and I owned the car before him, and I never did it, lol), so chances are it's the original G12. He's off to the local VW garage in a couple of days, so I'll tell him to get some while he's there.

Something my old man asked me the other day - he needs to top up the coolant on his Polo which uses G12, and he was wondeing whether he could just use generic coolant from the local motor suppliers? Will there be any issue here with incompatibility of differnet makes of coolant?

I can only speak from a G60 owners point of view, but a thermostatic plate is an essential item for these. Otherwise the oil will take ages to get warm enough to be the right viscosity, especially with a 16 row cooler. Not sure what the alloy cap is they are talking about. As for mounting points, mines down in front of the passenger wheel arch, with holes drilled in the wheel arch line to prevent stagnant air build up. Alot of VR owners mount theirs in front of the rad though.

That pretty much confirms that it's not the ISV then. Have you checked the ISV wiring for damage - mine had burnt through where it got close to the head which caused my idle problems.

That's alright mate. With the ISV try and set it back to how it was originally with the grub screw. I seem to remember with mine it was at about where the air flow was minimum when blown through while off the car. To be honest if they have moved over their life, it'll be minimal, and should need very little if any adjustment.

You should be able to blow through the ISV when out of the car. Idling adjusting flagrantly nicked from the Vortex website... Idle Speed / CO Content --------------------------------- 1) Pull crankcase breather hose off pressure regulating valve and turn it so that only fresh air will be drawn in. 2) Let engine run at idle. 3) After approximately one minute disconnect the blue connector at the coolant temperature sender. 4) Raise the engine speed four times to over 3000 RPMs and then let the engine return to idle (This cancels the hot start idle increase function). 5) Adjust if necessary. 6) Remove tamper resistant plug over the CO screw, rotate both adjustment screws alternately. --- the idle speed is 800 30 RPMs --- and the CO is around 1.2 % (or set CO pot to approx 500 ohms) 7) Reconnect the blue temperature sensor harness plug. 8 ) Raise the engine four more times to over 3000 RPMs and then let the engine return to idle. 9) Check to make sure that the CO did not go out of specs. --- If the CO is out of specs, check the oxygen sensor system. 10) With the settings correct shut off the engine and reconnect the crankcase breather hose. 11) Install a new tamper resistant plug over the CO adjustment screw.

Thank you to B5VWC for the spoiler switches. Quick delivery and well packaged :D

No not yet mate. Got Just Matz getting me a quote for one as they can get Oz stuff. At the moment I am making do with the black plastic lid from a 60ml jar at work. Perfect push fit and endless supply if it ever falls out :lol:

Started modifying a dash centre consol for my nitrous gauge/controller today :D Bit of a squeeze in there, and not sure what to do with the current gauges I have (maybe move them lower and angle them up slightly). At the rate, it'll take me another couple of years to get everything else for the nitrous fitted, god I hate being lazy at times :lol: Going to have to think of a new palce for the CD's as well :?

Take the pipe to the throttle body off as well and have a look in there - if you have loads of oil, chances are you've blown your charger oil seals. The charger shouldn't be rev past a 3 or 4000 for the 1st 500 miles after a rebuild as well. Also check to see whether the throttle cable has moved, if it has the butterfly in the throttle wont fully close on WOT and you wont see high boost. Oh, yes and check for boost leaks as mentioned.

I doubt they come with the right resistance setting from the factory. Did you try setting/measuring it when warm again. With all the correct pipework in place for the ISV, and the new CO pot set to 500 ohms when warm, have you tried going throught he full correct way of setting the idle (up to temp, blue temp sensor disconnected, adjusting the idle screw on the back of the throttle body, revving 3 times to more than 3000rpm etc)? The ISV itself shouldn't need to be adjusted, atleast it is unlikely to be the cause of your idling woes.

Strange, I was told to set when hot. The Bentley manual has the CO pot at about 400 ohms when hot, but nearer 3000 ohms at 20 degrees. This would tie in with setting it when hot.

Cool, thank you....

They can be tested for resistance (just been through this on mine) and it's very easy to do. Typically the sensors should be about 1100-1200 ohms. The front ones can be tested from in the engine bay (connectors are on top of each suspension strut). The rear ones the connectors should be under the rear seats.