JMC

I can check on ETKA for you later mate - AFAIK the G60 ones are specific to the G60.

Cleaning the ISV is simply carb cleaner, swill it round and pour it out. Repeat once or twice until it runs clear. They can be adjusted inside, but it shouldn't need taht to run. I don't think the end should be loose though - from memory it isn't on mine. Also is it a genuine G60 ISV - some people have fitted others to theirs? Finally, check the ISV wiring that runs near the injectors. I had a problem on mine - with all the heat there, the wire had become brittle and snapped internally causing me idle problems. Replaced that section wire and idle problems solved.

Why not keep the box and just change the 5th gear cog... http://wiki.the-corrado.net/5th_gear_cog_change.html

Well, I've gone and ordered new front left and right Siemens ABS sensors. Fingers crossed they'll be here in the next few days, and I hope I can get rid of the black tape over the ABS light :lol:

Aha, a quick break through. Just been and checked the resistance of the front sensors. The drivers side is approx 1100 ohms, and the passenger side completely open circuit. Looks like the passenger one is duff :D . Will check the rears tonight and make sure they're ok. For the front is it worth replacing both at once given they are only £14 each?

Is there anyone with Vag-com and a 2x2 adapter in the Egham area of west Surrey please? I need my ABS codes reading....

I was looking on ebay last night dr_mat. Can't believe how cheap the Vagcom connectors are. Is the freebie RossTech software the one that comes with the cables or is that sourced elsewhere?

The ABS light giving flashing code didn't work on mine - the ABS light just stayed on and I left it for 5 mins :( . So folks should the relay 79 stay on with the ignition on or is it supposed to click off a few seconds after ignition, as mine doesn't stay on?

I never knew that Zippy - wonder if it's VR specific or wther it works on mine. I thought the flash settings were obtained from the vag-com port not the ABS light. Must check the resistance on my sensors as a first port of call, but thanks for the tip about Siemens.

Hmm, seems the fuses are all fine. I did notice that the ABS relays (79 and 179) click on and then off again a few seconds later when the ignition is switched on. I am assuming they should be staying on if they're working normally, is that right?

Anybody know if there are any abs relays or fuses under the drivers side dash, or are they both under the passenger side?

Yep, it is, but I can start on this myself tonight, and atleast rule a few of the more obvious one out. Strange though, it didn't feel any different to normal while driving it... Thanks for the heads up on the brake pedal position sensor. Hope it isn't that one...

As is usually the case, after 6 years of faithful service my ABS warning light decided to stay on this morning. It flickered during start up as per usual, but instead of going out, it just stayed lit. Nothings really changed since yesterday, haven't been ragging it etc. I've searched on here, and there is a mountain of information on this. Could someone in the know have a read through the list below and let me know if I've missed anything obvious. I'd like to do this myself before paying for it to be VAG-COMed if possible. Check the wheel sensors, should be 1200-1300 ish ohms if ok. Check the ABS relays and fuses in the passenger footwell under the glovebox. Check the ABS ECU connection in the passenger footwell behind the kick plate. Check fuses under drivers side (are there any additional fuses down here). Check the ABS light unit itself - I have a working spare. Make sure the brake fluid level is not low. Spray the ABS pump connections with WD40. Check the load relief relay. Any others?

Thats sounds a bit suss to me. My opinion is that the intercooler can have an impact on the map. What the map doesn't take into account is any pressure drop as a result of adding the intercooler. Also (and I may be wrong on this) I thought with digifant that when on wide open throttle the CO post is bypassed, so when on full boost there is no temperature compensation. I would check with Vince on that though. The upshot would be that if you had much better cooling the air would be denser and if not corrected for you would run lean.

That is stupidly cheap for what it is. Shame it's missing the dash that was done - that was an Aston Martin retrim from memory. Had a full custom dash as well.

yeah... work right next to VW train station... I also see a green 4cyl rado parked up on the road near sunningdale train station like every day! I travel to Reading occasionally from VW station, will have to keep an eye out for you. There's a few round here, have seen a couple in Egham, and that one in Sunningdale as you say.

Mine with a stage 4 charger, 65mm pulley and G-Wrks fast road head, and shrick cam 268/276, along with a 1.9l conversion, I'm seeing 11-12psi at most, which is to be expected as I've made every effort to make my system breathe as efficiently as possible. It'll be lower than a standard system as the boost pressure is as much a measure of backed up gas as well as increased output of the charger.

You work in V water Kris? I live just down the road from there between Egham and V Water. Seen M11 VWC before as well - not sure who it is though...

Good, that sounds like good advice. I actually have a Golf G60 one in mine as I wanted to keep it looking stock. But they are expensive and rare. So not sure really on what to suggest, as I have no experience of the others. Have a search on here or on Dubforce and see what people have used when going for non standard ones. RSR outlet is a definately a good idea - I presume you're still running with that crappy little black plastic box then? If so you're doing well, they are prone to leaks. I would strongly well recommend a boost gauge as well - something you can easily fit yourself, and an absolute necessity with a tweeked, charged motor.

Just give Vince a call - nice bloke and very helpful :D

How about this.... http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=76368&hilit=heated+seat+loom

You're welcome. Bit of a fiddly job, just take your time.

If you take out the cowl around the instruments - 4 screws, you should be able to get enough clearance to get the switch out. Then you need access to behing the fuse box - underdash tray out, and rotate the fusebox down to reveal where it is plugged in. Just one wire from memory there. You don't need to take the dash out to do this.

Take the carpets up unfortunately...

I've had both on mine and there are pluses and minuses for both. A rolling road never matches a street in terms of the effects on the car, for example the car doesn't have to work as hard on a rolling road as there is no wind resistance. But on a rolling road, they can hold it on certains revs in each gear and build the map systematically. Also on a rolling road you have a direct measure of a) what it came in with and b) what it's going out with. I had the misfortune with a street map of thinking it was ok initially, only to find when I'd been driving for a bit it behaved like a dog, and after I'd already shelled out. Given where you are I can do no better than recommend Vince at Stealth - he reckoned on one day start to finish for map, mine was a bit quicker as my base map was pretty much there. Expect to pay a few hundred for a full map from start to finish though, but he is good and experienced on digifant.