JMC

From G-werks mate.... Cheers for the info Riley :D Anyone know whether the VR6 80 degree ones will fit the G60 water pump?

Thanks mate - lets see a pic of it when you've got it in :D

Afraid the only info I've got is that which was given above mate. I ran the Piper in mine for ages (but with a flowed head) and that was fine. I think the problem you'll come up against, is when you are running it one your standard head, the flow is not sufficient to make good use of the cam. Therefore you'll see little if any benefit, and it'll feel like a dog.

Cheers Neil - that corresponds to 82 degrees which should be fine. Do you know whether this is a Vag part, or whether Neuspeed make them? g60karmann - my problem with the low temp fan switch was that it took to not switching off once the fan was going. So the fan would come on and then not go off and the battery would drain. Also it came one at just over 70 degrees so it was running even when I was on the motorway. I decided put the original fan switch back in, and since then no probs, but I wanted the running temp to come up slightly from 70 to 80 as it'll help getting the oil up to temp quicker.

I'm currently running a 70 degree thermostat for G60, which while it keeps my engine nice and chilly, it's not good for getting it up to temperature (especially at this time of year). I get stuck in a lot of stop start traffic, and want a thermostat which operates ideally in the middle of the 70-90 range (don't like relying on the fan, anh have had problems with low temp fan switches before), i.e. an 80 degree one. I've seen these for the VR6's, but do they fit the G60 water pump, and if so does ayone know the part number please?

Heres some more info on the Shrick and Piper ones I used Riley.. Piper 285 is a symmetric 268/268, lobe centre 114, timing 20-68/68-20, lift 11.13/11.13mm. Why it's called a 285 I don't know. Product code is G60BP285H And the schrick an asymmetric 265/278, lobe centre 112, timing 22-66/70-26, lift 11.2/11.5. Rough guess, the L+S Cartec will be a wild and lumpy cam, more suited to a heavily flowed head and race conditions. However, anybody who's used one feel free to come and contradict :lol:

Those chrome door pulls mak a big difference for such a small change. Although if they are anything like the ones I got you'll need to mod the plastic part they attach to slightly to get them to sit flat when closed....

Thanks Ian. I'd planned on taking some old sheet and blankets when I need to do it, but was unsure as to whether it would even fit...

Cheers for clarifying :D

Just working on a green spoiler switch at the moment (about to start painting), so though I would put up a shot :D

You left your tailgate behind, or were you trying to carry another one...

This is one of those questions which could have ended up in the Interior or Exterior section. Basically can the bonnet fit inside the car (and with you still being able to drive it of course)? The reason why I'm asking is I'll be getting one of the carbon fibre ones before too long, and I'll want to be able to bring my old one back from wherever I get it fitted. Anybody any ideas :shrug: UPDATE 31/1/09. Having tried to get a bonnet in my car today, I can say it doesn't fit.... For those who have managed it I take my hat off sirs, but there was no way mine was going in today :lol:

Sorry to hear that the bonnet is not repairable Stefan, but atleast something can be done about the roof. Is it a late style bonnet you're needing - mine should be available in about a month...

Big thanks to g60karmann. Items were well (and I mean really well) packed, and arrived quickly. Cheers mate :D

To be honest it was fitted along with my 1.9l engine conversion so I can't say what the throttle body has done by itself. The general consensus seems to be that they flow better, but as for adding any power there is little to say they do that.

Bit of an update Riley. Just had an interesting session at Surrey Rolling Road. Given that's where all my work has been done in the past I wanted to see how their numbers compared to the old values I got the the Piper cam (note the 246 in my post above was measured at Stealth after the ampping was done). Scarily I got the same values for the new Schrick cam (run on a nice cold day today) that I got for the Piper cam in the middle of summer, when compared on the same dyno.

Ooh, thats useful to know and sounds fairly easy. Is the standard in tank pump up to the job then?

If you want them to fit the 28mm Seat Ibiza 305mm discs you'll need the Boxster S fronts AFAIK. I seem to remember the rears are for 24mm discs.

I've tried the Schrick and the Piper 285. Both are good, and both made good power (the Piper made 212bhp in my 1.8 and 233bhp in 1.9). I am now runnign a Schrick assymmetric one - I've just had it mapped at Stealth and am now making 246bhp. Although to be honest it looks from the description that you're running a standard head (can't see any mention of head work) so I'd probably suggest sticking with a stock cam (dons flame suit).

Very smooth, a completely different beast now Kev :D. As with all things, yesterday did bring up some issues, mainly regarding the fuelling. It's still running the original fuel pump, and as it'll be nitrous next, thats going to struggle (or more likely fail). So bigger fuel pump will be needed before I do any more. Also the injectors are at 90% now, so I can't risk pushing those any further. Still I'm not thinking about that at the monent - just enjoying it.

There are two routes i) live mapping which takes place on the road with you (or someone) driving the car, while someone else does the mapping on a laptop, ii) rolling road tuning where this is one on a dyno. There are pro's and con's for each, but my experience has led me to tuning on a dyno. As for cost it is dependant on time, but budget £300-500 and you'll be in the right region. Basically they either start from your chip or from a base map, and then go from there. The result is a new chip which replaces your old one. If you have made relatively minor tweaks then and off the shelf chip will probably be fine for a fraction of the price.

Yeah it is good fun :D and it is nice to have it sorted now. Given all my RR work has been done at Surrey Rolling Road up until now I might try and get a measurement done on their setup as well over the next couple of days (while the weather is still like this). SRR tends to run bonnet down, and Stealth bonnet up which from what I've seen before makes a huge difference. Would be nice to compare everything on the same graph.

So nice to finally get it set up properly :D. One thing though, there isn't much more room the play - the injectors are now operating at 90%.

Good to see yours up and running Simon :D Sounds like a productive Christmas.

Just had a day out at Stealth to get it mapped. Made a huge difference :D . The graphs below show the comparison between the old and new maps. These are at the wheels graphs (run with the bonnet up), but it made 246bhp and 222lbft at the flywheel, which Vince says was pretty good especially as I am still running a 68mm pulley. Big thank you to Vince and the boys there, but OMG was it cold this morning (set off at 7 to be there).