JMC

Ah right, not a 1.9l rebore then. As Supercharged says still very good for a rebuild done 10 years ago :D

It depends somewhat on the setup. A wet kit would be extra fuel along with the nitrous oxide in the right ratio. The fuel and nitrous ratio is set by the nozzles. This wont (or shouldn't ) affect the fuelling setup on the chip at all. A dry system relies on extra fuel being delivered by the injectors. As you can imagine although easier to plumb in it is potentially more hazardous as the map has to be spot on. From talking with Trev at Wizards of Nos on a G60 with a wet system the jets should come just before the throttle body (about 6 inches back, so in the bend basically). Alternatively if you are feeling flush you could have a direct port system in the inlet manifold runners. The problem there is heat from the exhaust manifold. I'm going with the '6 inches before the throttle body' approach.

I have it, and it's still in a box in my living room waiting to be fitted. Yes, I will get round to it soon, probably :lol:

Yep bingo - ported and flowed head will cause the lower boost pressure, especially if the cam has been played with before. Very similar to what mine was putting out before I got the Golf G60 intercooler and had it remapped to suit. When you say oversize pistons is this a 1.9l or just an over bore? To put it into context as a 1.8 with a flowed head etc mine was making 212bhp on a very conservative RR. Can't make your plot any bigger to have a look at the details though :(

Yes, I remember seeing a white G40. The roads were great, although as you say the weather was awful. Also driving back from Macclesfield to Hull on the thursday before Easter was not really good for clear roads :lol:

That was probably me mate - I was going though Buxton at around 4PM on thursday afternoon. Wondered if I'd been spotted on my round country trip :D

1st impression say yes Simon - definately feels like it is a good setup :D

Just wanted to say a big thank you JP Exhausts in Macclesfield. They just made a 2.5" manifold back system for my G60 and the work looks absolutely amazing. Geat quality and a great sound too :luvlove: . If anyone is interested they also do laser cutting if you want anything doing - and are happy to take one one offs to fill in between their work. They can cut up to 12mm steel and (I think 8mm stainless).

Been a while since I posted. Just had a custom exhaust made with JP Exhausts in Macclesfield if anyone is after one. First class job and can highly recommend them. Gone for a 2.5" system with 3 boxes. Not much louder than my old one and hopefully shouldn't throttle me at the top end like the old one. Don't get me wrong my old system was good for a standard or mildly tuned G60, but putting nearly 100bhp through is no longer 'mildly tuned' :lol: . Anyway enough chat - some pics.

Spotted a couple on the way back down the M1 today. 1st would have been around 5Pm north bound around Sheffield(ish). Red with a roof spoiler. 2nd was south bound in the long (13 mile long) roadworks about 6PM, white, got and gave a wave :D

I had to make a new holder for mine Leon. Few hours work with MDF anf covering in vinyl. It should be 'relatively' easy to mod the existing one though. Basically, cut a circle of plastic the same size as the hole. Glue/plastic weld it in. Smooth it off, drill a new hole, and give it a quick respray with black paint.

Ah right. I've noticed with mine that is continually slightly leaking under boost - this might be a way of sorting that them, as presumably the valve isn't shutting properly?

Come across a few threads on teh VWVortex site what says that the G60 ISV is adjustable. Did anyone else know this, or has tried adjusting them when they no longer work properly - I always thought they were not adjustable :shrug:

I've just refitted a standard, uncut airbox, with the helmholtz resonator on my g60 (previously I had a butchered standard box on there). Has made it much quieter. One thing though - there is virtually no gap between the rear of the headlight and the entrance to the box. I'll have to get some pics tomorrow, but surely there should be more than half an inch gap to cope with the amount of air these need to flow at high revs :shrug:

Thanks mate :D . By all means drop me a PM if you have any q's...

The plot on p19 was with done with an 'on-road' map (live mapping) written by Steve who used to be PSD. That was with my 1.9 engine, but with a Piper cam. I have since moved to the asymmetric Schrick that everyone has, and a new remap (from Stealth) and.......... I'm producing exactly the same power as before. Doh. I think then injectors are now one of the limiting factors along with the exhaust. Hopefully both to be remedied before too long. Good luck with yours :D And yes Simon, it was me asking thanks, although from the responses it would seem as though they may not work :( BTW, my AFR in the car is narrow not wideband.

I would say the input is where the signal comes in from the amp/headunit... Nice bargain btw :D

The windows get a bit 'sticky' if not used for a while (usually over winter). Get a friend and with a hand either side of the glass apply a gentle but firm downwards push on the glass when the switch is being pushed down. This freed them up on mine. Once moving they are usually fine.

You have obviously never been to my local then. Muppets ain't the word for it.... I find the 2-handed 'squash' approach quite effective. Use the heels of your hands to push towards eachother on either side of the cap, like you're squashing an orange. And a pair of grippy rubber gloves will help too. :lol: mine does have his moments - hence I like to give as much info as possible. Cheers for checking though :D

Just a quick update, having now sourced and fitted one of these. They are a lot more than that from Porsche - more like £80. May well be cheaper through Bosch - but numpty here didn't think of trying that :lol:. The part numbers are Porsche number 944 110 198 04 (not 03 as per above, 03 was 2.5bar one from memory) Bosch number is 0 280 160 263 Takes about 10mins to swap. Has it solved my problem of going slightly lean on full throttle - no idea, not had it back on a wideband yet, but it does run perfectly fine and hasn't effected my fuel economy.

When you take the panel off there will be 2 leads going into it. One for the rotary control, and the other will be 2 wires - one blue/grey and the other brown. This is the wiring for the bulb. Set the multimeter to the 20V DC range, and put the black lead in the Common socket, and the red lead in the Volts socket. Disconnect the bulb wiring plug from the heater panel, and put the red lead from the multimeter to the blue/grey on the plug, and the black lead from the multimeter to the brown lead. The blue/grey one should be live (+12V) when the headlights are on, and the dimmer is turned to it's brightest setting. If you are getting voltage from the wires, but the bulbs not working, then it's the bulb at fault. Hope that helps.

Great little mod Kev :D. Out of interest, do you have the part number for the tank - I find my VW dealer easier to deal with if I can give him part numbers, otherwise we can spend ages on the phone going 'is it this, or this, or this?'.

Not sure about the other end of the loom, sorry. But if you have a multimeter, see whether you are getting 12v out the end (it'll only be 12v with i) the headlights are on and ii) when the dimmer on the light switch is all the way up, as it's on that circuit). If you are getting 12v then chances are the bulb has gone. They are not designed to be replaced however it is possible :wink:

I would have thought Insurance companies would not look kindly on you if you had HIDS installed either, whether or not they were in use at the time of an accident, given the legallity situation. I could see that in their eyes, you would be driving around with an illegal setup which would surely invalidate any insurance :shrug: