JMC

Mine was a rear mounted fan, but I found it just impeded the flow of air when it wasn't running. I had it mounted in the same place as you. To improve airflow I cut loads of small (12mm diameter) holes in the wheel arch liner behind the cooler. No idea whether it made any difference, but basic air flow tells me it hasn't done any harm. Thanks for the details on the rad :D

Cool CTW that would be really useful. I think its definately oil more than water based though - think a bigger oil cooler may be needed, especially if I am making more power. I tried a fan on my cooler and it made everything run hotter :cuckoo: . The fan impeded the ariflow unless it was turning - tookit off and everything cooled down again :D

Holy thread resurrection :batman: Can't believe I started this back in jan, ad it still isn't finished yet :lol: . Anyhow, I got the bumper modified by Greg at Southam Bodies (attached imge). Thought there would be enough room to fit an FK debadged grill in where the recess was, and there was, but only just. Been out to today ana primered the bumper iron, ready for spraying tomorrow. All I have to do now is sourc a small numerbplate from somwhere and figure out how to attach it to the bumper :? Any thoughts from people who have relocated their numberplate as to the best way to do this?

I've got one of the aftermarket fans from G-werks in there at the moment, wired so it comes on a full power when it is in operation - just wondering whether it is worth fitting a manual override as the fan switch seems to be a bit slow (fan doesn't come on until 100). Of course I could just replace the fan switch :lol:

Thanks Jim :D :D I'm afraid i was bound to secrecy when it comes to pricing. I will say this though - he is very reasonable, especially if you don't need it back asap (I left mine wih him for 3 weeks), and the quality of the work is exceptional.

These symptoms usually point to the 2 metal tubes connecting the motor mechanism to the spoiler being gummed up inside. Means taking the spoiler mechanism out and apart (not nice - takes a couple of hours), then take it all apart. Clean it, grease it and put it back together :D

Was talking with Greg about that - bracket, small plate and mount it just underneath the grill. The wait 'til I get pulled over :lol: :lol: before figuring something else out....

Cheers mate :D The brakes you need are Boxster S callipers (they are made for 28mm thick discs), you can then use the Seat carriers (from an Ibiza Cupra R - the callipers are the same size as the Brembos), and Seat Ibiza Cupra R discs (304mm x 28mm thick with a 4x100 bolt pattern). You will also need to get some hoses. I bought the whoe setup from someone on here (sorry). In fact mine is a bit of a hybrid - I mistakenly bought Boxster callipers believing them to be Boxster S ones. The previous cowboy owner had ground down the pads to make them fit, so this time round I got AP Racing 2 piece discs in a 25.4mm thickness, and spaced the callipers out further, allowing me to go from 305mm to 315mm. I see you've got air-com - I had it in my G60 and took it out (hadn't worked in years) and that gave me room for the FMIC - I think you may struggle with air con to fit one in there :( :(

Don't think they installed a new thermostat when they did the engine - wasn't one on the bill anyway :lol:

D'oh. Never mind we all have days like that :lol: :lol: . Just been out cleaning and sanding the metalwork for this as well. Hopefully get it sprayed up this weekend :clap:

Ah, the foglight and indicator holes :D

The number plate recess (along with a lot of the plastic in the rear of the bumper) was removed an an FK debadged grill cut down slightly and put in from the back. I've modified the bumper iron and removed some of the metal to let the air from this flow more freely (now I just have to finish my bit). What headlight apertures :? ?

Just been to pick up my new front bumper from Greg at Southam Bodies. Great guy to deal with and would hearrtily recommend. Really chuffed, although I can imagine it might not be to everyones taste on here. All I need to do now is finish off the metal work and get it fixed and figure out where and how to mount the number plate :D :D

Cheers Simon. It's not the magnitude of the oil temp as such that bothers me (sits at about 110 on the motorway, as opposed to 100 before the rebuild), it's the fact that the water temp rockets up as soon as I get stuck in traffic. May have to consider a bigger oil cooler now then :? . Maybe where I have the oil cooler isn't the best location (where the old G60 intercooler was), combined with it only being the small 13 row one (about 6 inches long) which means that the new engine is much more work for it.

...to run much hotter then before they are rebuilt? If so, how long is it likely to last? The reason I ask is that I had my G60 taken from 1.8 to 1.9 with a recent rebuild (done about 1200 miles so far). Now, it's great fun (don't get me wrong) but the oil temp is about 10 degrees hotter than it was before the rebuild. At the moment, it's not been mapped and is generating about the same power as before, oil pressure seem fine, my oil cooler is getting hot, so that seems to be working alright. Basically though it is running quite a bit hotter. It's not a problem when moving but as soon as I get stuck in traffic my water temp starts to shoot up and sits around 105, which I am not used to, and with hot weather on the way I'd like my mind putting to rest please :D .

Now that is interesting, and again there seems to be different points of view :? . When I got my G-Werks SS one, I bought some wrap as I wanted to make sure the heat was kept in. Darrens point of view was that he would not guarantee it if it was wrapped. Apparently the SS ones are not as thermally resilient as the cast iron ones, and if you wrap them they can get too hot and be damaged :shrug: . Is there the facility to add heat shielding above the manfold on the VR6's as this might be a way to keep temps down. The other big thing would be to add an external oil cooler if you haven't got one already - would cost you less than £200 and would have a big effect.

I looked into getting one of the G-werks SS manifolds coated about a year ago. AFAI can recall, Darren said there was a reduction in heat coming off it, but you would not want to put you hand on the pipework (so not quite like the F1 stuff). With ceramic there will always be issues around stability long term. SS and ceramic expand and contract at different rates - ceramic is brittle and will have a tendancy to flake off eventually. There has been alot of work done on adhesion promotion, but even so. As a geeky scientist I love the idea of this stuff as a way of reducing under bonnet temps, but as most people will say 'does the cost justify it?'.

Cool cheers Jon :D

Please, does anybody know the weight of a G60 head as I am wanting to get a cost for shipping my old flowed head? Thanks :D

I tie on a piece of cotton thread and put that through the hole - always works a charm. Drove me mad the first time though - spent ages trying to figure it out. Good to see I'm not the only one :lol: :lol:

I was running around on the original injectors, a 65mm pulley and a flowed head and was getting 212bhp. To be fair I wouldn't want to try and get much more out of them though :lol:

I can, but it's more the being told 1 day before it was going to happen that is the point. It's the principle of the thing. Not a good way to run a business in my mind, or maybe I am being too demanding :? Problem is I am running around on a map for my old engine, on a new one with substantial modifications. To be honest I just wanted to get it mapped properly now the work has been done - with Surrey Rolling Road 2 miles away, I was supposed to be getting the last bit of work done here tomorow, and then straight down to SRR to have it mapped. Being let down means looking like a muppet to SRR ("Sorry not going to happen now guys - yes would have been nice to give you more notice, but don't worry it's only a waste of a bank holiday sunday. You didn't want to go and do anything anyway did you?"), and driving around in a car which isn't running properly.

It would seem that the mapper had forgotten to mention that he had already planned on being in 2 places at once as he is doing something else tomorrow. Nice to find out with plenty of notice :censored: especially when I made sure I was around this weekend so it could be done. Still going to go ahead and get the DD done though - it will give me a benchmark if nothing else. Starting to come off the boil now, but it is bl00dy frustrating having to rely on others.

Arrrgh - the final install of parts and tuning which was supposed to happen tomorrow has just been cancelled :bad-words: :censored: . Soooo frustrating - makes me wish I was a better mechanic and was more able to do things myself :roll: . Sorry folks, just needed a little rant, as (funnily enough) I have been looking forward to this for some time :bad-words:

With an oil cooler most peoples temps come down to around a 100 even when pushing it. But as you as fastidious in your oil changing that shouldn't be too much of an issue then. Steve from Pitstop Developments should be able to do you a custom map, but you would need to ge the car to him. With standard injectors you will be pushing to duty cycle to the limit to get enough fuel in with your system. Even with a 68mm pullet you have a big valve flowed head, flowed exhaust manifold, big intercooler and flowed charger - everything designed to get more gas (and therefore more fuel) into your system. If your thinking about furthr modifications and work then injectors will need doing pretty soon. Greta setup BTW - I had a similar one to you but without the water injection or manifold and was getting 212 at the flywheel on standard injectors - but they have now needed changing for my latest round of work :D