Blue_Joe

Mmmm I've always been intrigued as to whether there is anyway of making a better inlet manifold out there!!!

Yup - I'm using one after throwing my JMR Solid one away!!! It is from Darren. It's similar or the same design as another manufacturer that is VERY good but I can't remember the name of. As far as I'm concerned it's a VERY good design, VERY strong and certainly handles the power and torque in my car nicely, while eliminating the problem of ripping the mounting bracket in half. A very good mount as far as I'm concerned so far!!!!!! I think the part at the bottom gives it away that says

It's exactly the same belt setup as the 8V G60 - Just the alternator has to be moved to the rear of the engine. The only link to the cams is that teh Crank has 2 pulleys on it. an inner one that the timing belt runs on and an outer larger pulley that the charger belt runs on!

Doesn't shotgun mean you want to ride in the passenger seat????

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Only one set coming in??

Are you getting them that quick??

Thats who made it!

I can check tomorrow! If not put me down as first on the list!

There is a place in Stoke-on-trent so not too far from me and you!!!! I looked into one a little while ago and they are VERY reasonably priced and make them custom to order in any material. I looked at a half polished ally cage and was about half the price of anywhere else and I've seen the quality and it's fantastic! http://www.mpsperformance.co.uk/ Heres a pic of one they did in a corrado: http://www.mpsperformance.co.uk/pic019.html Believe it was someones on here!

Oh Dear!! I have to pick mine up from the postman today as missed him. I must admit due to having angel eyes I was never really going to fit the headlights as am going in a slightly different direction with them. But if the indicators are really that bad then mine will be in the same place!!!! Unlsee Empiregfx can sort this out and quick smart!!

You set the start and finish point - The shift light magic box does the rest!!! I bought one at the weekend and I must say it's TOP DOLLAR!!!!

I've binned my Solid front engine mount. When I fitted it I had all my other mounts replaced including the subframe bushes It managed to tear 3 brackets that bolt it to the front of the engine. On one occasion it tore it completely in 2 resulting in the engine falling forward!!! The only thing that stopped it going to far was the inlet manifold fell against the strut brace. But in doing so it kicked a number of vacuum pipes resulting in me having NO brakes!!! In my car that wasn't funny!!!!! I won't be using one again!!!!!! Instead I have an uprated front engine mount!

My uncle is into BMW bikes and has had them for as long as I can remember A few years ago he bought a BMW Sports bike that cost a small fortune but is one of only 2 in existance as it was modified by AC Shnizter. He onws one and BMW own the other. I'm trying to find photos of it but can't at mo! Is a stunning bike!

As I said - The problem is now cured and was down to teh restriction caused by the laqst pipe of the manifold being a 2" pipe. We cut this off and opened it to 2.5" and put in an Iloc Motorsport fleex joint and it's now fine and not getting so hot to destroy the box Problem sorted. Can lock this up if you want mods!

I've just bought all of the parts needed and if you hang on till tomorrow I'll get teh part number list out of the car and post it up. The whole lot as I bought all the mounting points and new mounting screws and the plastic clips they screw into set me back £25. The adjusters on their own are about £7 each!

But my point still really stands though Henny as your car is FAR from standard - ALOT of work has been done to the rest of the internals of the engine and other ancillaries. It's not just a head that has increased the power but the combination of a whole host of mods!

Well its confirmed it was a restriction at the convergence of the primaries. Opening it out seems (fingers crossed!!) to have cured it!!!

Since when are manual ones £20???? I just bought 2 for £14 from the stealers. As to the electric motors I don't know as I haven't got them on mine.

You can get electric motors for the light adjustment. I was looking at them the other day in VW when getting some new manual ones for mine!

Would create too much boost for standard internals of a VR. Also there would be nowhere inline with the pulleys with enough room to mount it

I'm not saying it can't - I'm just saying it isn't easy!!!! And just a big valve head and a few other bits won't break it - Only Major mods will!!!!

Just looked at the thread on e38 neil - It's hardly the same sort of Spec that was talked about above. It's as I suspected a much more played with car, same tyoe of thing that I've done but wilder cam etc. I've done more to the bottom end but he's also done alot. And he's got his methanol working which I have yet to do so. So you need to put it into perspective - as I said earlier to get near that sort of figure you need to do alot more work and spend alot more money than just a big valve head and such!

Very much doubt it was 270lbs/ft of torque!

I think your dreaming with that sort of torque figure Neil!!!!!! Bearing in mind the extreme of my spec car I am running on the Stealth RR day today I hit 234lbs/ft of torqu and at last map at chipwizards 247lbs/ft although I am getting much higher bhp than you quoted. But if you compare the spec that xtremg60 quoted mine is quite a bit beyond that spec. The closest any one else got to that torqu figure was mikeg60 with a 1.9 bottom end and CNC machined head at 216lbs/ft of torque. The 220 mark of torque is the oh so difficult barrier to break on any G60 unless you go to very expensive lengths like i did!!!