goodridge

Well yea. I sold it to her when we were together. Seemed like a good idea at the time! Not so sure now!

Am I just being really thick then or what?! How can I be 180 out? Surely that would mean I would be on TDC no. 4???

As in turn a few degrees? Like you would adjust the timing? As opposed to turning it 180 deg i mean.

Well I've got a funny feeling this could be a prob, but I lined up the camshaft mark on the back of the pulley with the cam cover, checked the crank mark, and to double check, looked down the plug hole (no.1) and the piston was it TDC. Then checked the rotor was pointing to lead 1 and it was! So thats gotta be right? Right?!!!?

Yes mate I've had the dizzy out. Do you mean check the firing order? 1-3-4-2. i've done that two. The Hub Already in there mate :lol: :lol: :lol: All well and good till this type of thing happens!!

Right tried that. Got me two brothers and dad pushing downhill carrying some speed. It is kinda firing but not if you get what I mean. Wants to go but can't. Sounds to me like the timing is out but I've checked and double checked it! :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

Ok i'll go and try that. Back in 2

Anyway of doing that with no Multimeter?! I dont get it. Fuel and spark = should start? Could it be flooded?It looks pretty wet in the bores. Could that be bad enough to make it not start??

Good point I forget about that. I swapped the batt of my Ed1 because the one on the GTI was dying. If it starts mine it SHOULD start the GTI

The rotor arm is good. I am getting spark at the plugs. So the hall sender must be ok to?????

Need some help please chaps. Got my old GTI outside, ex gf brought it round earlier saying it was cutting out and stuff. Anyway, when she went to leave it wouldn't start. Had no spark! Swapped coils with my G60, still no spark. Went and got a dizzy off my mate to try put that in, got spark! Swap back to the old dizzy still got spark! WTF?! Anyway, so i've checked and double checked the timing marks, so that No.1 is on TDC compression (camshaft mark) and the rotor arm is pointing to no. 1. Will still not bloody start! Starting to get a bit p***** off now! Got spark got fuel. So...........................................? :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

Laser Alignment were I work at the VW Dealers in Cornwall is £75+vat

Nah thats me mates Rallye 8) I've got a black three door Edtion one 8) 8)

Are you in Cornwall somewhere mate? Sure i've seen your Rado in Truro and Newquay before now? :roll: Looks sweet 8)

You'll probably have difficulty locking stuff to be honest. Set the cam timing to TDC on no. 1 and mark all your pulleys. Remove the dizzy cap and check the arm is pointing to no.1 plug lead. To be honest you just as well change the belt again since you are in there. I think its only about 8 quid. When tensioning the belt, you should be able to turn the belt 90 degrees with your thumb and fore finger on the longest run (nearest the front of the car, between cam sprocket and dizzy shaft sprocket) You will probably be able to move the belt in an up and down direction about a 1cm or so. It always feels a liitle too slack but that is how they are meant to run. It is by no means tensioned tightly! Hope this helps. Anymore questions just shout.

You'll need 205 or 215/40/17's for a start. 225/45/17 is what they put on Golf IV, A3 etc......

Sure it's not the damper thing to the side of the lock? I had one in at work which broke and was rattling around in the tailgate. A new one was about £12 IIRC :)

Good weather for G60's :D Iit certainly is! I cant stop driving mine at the moment! :D Its costing me a small fortune :(

I tell ya, thats what'll end up happening. I've been messing around with it again tonight but to no avail. The head is gonna have to come off and be stripped and the block checked at least, not my idea of a happy christmas so he'll be having it back! The tappets just wont shut up, definitely an oil supply problem there somewhere.

Well I'm gonna try and unblock the oil galleries later on with an air line and some welding wire, not sure if it will work though :roll: Then like you say, if that doesnt work, it's going to be head and rebuild time :shock: That'll cost him! Dr Mat: Can luckily say not a mate really,or he would have a VW! :lol:more of a mates mate. I'm guessing the car has just been beaten. The transfer box is pissing oil out too, and they aint cheap either :roll: Oh well! It's not mine! :D

Been messin round with this pissing Vauxhall all day. Washed the sump, and oil galleries in the head with petrol. Cleaned the Oil pump (without removal) put the belt back on and ran it up :shock: Left the cam cover off to see what was going on and there is no oil reaching the inlet valve tappets :shock: So it looks like there must be a blocked oil way in the head :roll:

I know I know. He's payin tho! :lol:

I dont make them!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Got a mates Calibra turbo in the garage at the moment :shock: When running the tappets are extremely loud as if they are getting no oil. A few people have told me the oil strainer in the sump is prown to blocking? Anyone know if this iIs this true? I attempted to drop the sump last nite, however, there is one bolt at the back I cannot get to as the transfer box is in the way, anyone had any experience of this? When I drained the oil, it was like black treacle, really thick, claggy, and dirty, I'm wondering if this is the problem and a good flush may cure?! The inside of the sump (removed the oil level sender) is absolutely hanging.

Thanks Mate, Thats good to know! 8)