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My Vortech V9 Stage 2 kit (everything needed to V9 your car) etc will soon be for sale... :) Keep an eye on Parts for Sale. Will start a new thread soon - as the main work is actually just starting.

the rest should go on fuel for roadtrips :D

Not at all! Thats what your thread was all about - to cost the gearbox. I know folks have estimated 1500 - but if the cost of a gearbox rebuild, alternative final drive and a Quaife is around 1200 - then I'd place a bit more value than your setup - seeing as its a full 1-6 arrangement. You could still put up an ad with the price you feel its worth - thats going to be a more accurate way of finding its current value. Otherwise - enjoy it in a mk1!

excellent stuff :) I got it hung on the 2 pegs both of you mentioned. have missed a screw though. after another full day of driving - the lights stayed on and the needles all worked :) I taped up the gearstick wire before setting off. the buzzing/vibration did happen again though - so just need to find out wtf that is!

Cheers Joe. The buzzing occurs for a second at a time - and its unpredictable - no idea when it will happen. Its a slow process unfortunately

Likewise ran a big valved head on a 145k bottom end - no probs.

Just if anyone else comes across this - the dealers managed to speak with 'german technical' and the new part number is actually correct. They got another one in which was the correct colour - and that one worked first time. so guessing the first one they got was faulty. HTHs Cheers for the help all :)

I haven't got that far yet - everytime its happened while I'm driving. I'm getting there though - will sort the gearstick out and rule that out - then see if it happens again today. I'll post up what I find :) Joe - do you know about the fuse box mate?

The only thing I can think of is the power socket (cig lighter replacement). Its situated in the glovebox and I've likely disturbed something while fitting the sat nav. That buzzing sound is crazy - guessing its a wire shorting yeah - its louder inside the car that outside - and the vibration must be the current going through the dash frame? I'm not great with electrics - so correct me if I'm talking out my a$$! From the bay you can barely hear it. How does the fuse box attach - is there a guide or clips etc that allows it to sit firmly in place?

Thanks guys :) A few findings - the gearknob fitted is the illuminated reiger style one - the wire to it was slightly exposed (guessing tape had fallen off it) and it was cutting out the lights when engaging a certain gear. So taped that up - and will see today whether fuse #3 blows. The fuse box is all intact - however its hanging down at the front - shouldn't it be completely fixed and stable? This could be another reason for the gauges working/not-working... But the buzzing/vibration thing - goodness knows what that is - yet to trace it. The only things that could have been recently moved - the gearstick and a power point that replaces the cig lighter (used for sat nav etc). I'll remove the panels and trace behind the dash to see what i find :scratch:

I've seen this same thread posted on around another 3 forums - and seen more info on it. Just to echo what John wrote. I am interested myself to see what price you're wanting for it - but I'd see the the car as unwanted baggage. If I were you - I'd either sell the box straight - or offer an option to swap with a std box to allow your car to sell. Either way please keep us posted... (speaking selfishly of course)

Started this morning - needles weren't working - and consequently the spoiler wouldn't auto rise/drop. But would work off the button. After 20mins of driving they came back to life. The lights worked fine. When idling later in the day - I heard a random buzzing noise that actually sent vibration through the brake pedal... Watching the volt gauge - I could see the voltage dropping wildly when the buzz/vibration occurred. I got out and listened from within the bay and it sounded just like an electrical buzz - louder from inside the car. Seems shortly after this - fuse #3 burns out again - so I think i've found why the fuse is going - just need to trace the wires now. As for the gauges - could it be the battery just not supplying enough voltage through? The battery has been giving me a lot of trouble lately - seemingly being low on charge all the time. Any help appreciated

Thought I'd start a new thread for this. Last night the interior lights stopped working - the gauges, center console lights, heater controls etc. But the window, door, sunroof and headlight lights were still on. The fuse in #3 (a 10A) was burnt out. So I replaced it - and it fixed it - then I turned everything on and the needles stopped working and I couldn't function the MFA. So I had no choice but to drive off anyway - the needles came back after about 10 mins with a flash of the water cooling light (?!). Shortly after that - the lights went out again and I smelt the #3 fuse burn out again - and I've lost the needles and MFA again. So this morning I replaced the fuse with another 10A - checked the rear number plate lights (after doing some reading) - they're fine. Tried raising and lowering the rear spoiler. Fuse still intact. The needles and MFA however and dead again. I'm useless at electrics ... Can anyone please help? I need the car for 180mile round trips for the next week - for family hospital visits. Its not the right time for this kind of problem! :(

James is that the problem solved? I had this too tonight. Some very strange behavior in the car... First the dash lights all go out. I check the fuse in slot #3 - its out and its a 10A fuse. I pull over and change it for a new 10A one. I switch the car back on and the lights come back. I then notice that the needles have completely stopped worked - and the MFA didn't function - same with the digital clocks. All of a sudden - the needles start working but within a minute the lights go out again and the smell of burnt plastic confirms the 10A fuse has just burnt out again. WTF is going on? Why has this only become a problem now - as there has always been a 10A fuse in there. Can anyone confirm what should be in slot #3 please? And which slot the dash lights should be in please? Thanks...

excellent stuff - congrats mate :) write up how you find it after bedding and mapping and lets get some pics!

Keep me in check with a price - interested to know what you arrive at...

so who needs a spare vr6 after i've removed the gemini for mine then? ;) ...

Because the material that most use allows particles to travel through and collect in the charger. The OEM or something like a K&N panel filter is better long term wise. Personally think induction kits are loads of money for little gain. I'd put the money into the head/cam, exhaust, map and gearbox and come back to the rest. Not forgetting brakes and suspension.

Heres a link to my old members thread - I did a lot of work to my old G60 and it got daily hard driving. Being a bit lazy but check the list - you might find more mods that will work for you viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19558&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=30. As JMC said - the flowed head is a great move - you can go one step further though and get a big valved head - one of the best mods I did to it. I'd confidently say the other best mods done were the engine mounts, oil cooler and suspension. The rest were certainly secondary... The ISV reroute is usually not advisable. And you may find you dont need the 3.5FPR - well not at first anyway - at 203bhp 197lbs/ft mine didn't need it. Supersprint exhausts are heavy but well regarded - I was happy with mine and it was of good quality - but eventually the weight pissed me off. Consider sticking with the std air box and just replace the filter - dont get a cone filter. After going on track with it I realised the springs were too soft at 250/200, OEM bushes the same (despite being new), the 280mm single piston brakes were highly insufficient, gear ratios could do with changing a bit and the water cooling was not up to par. The power and delivery felt good! Had I of kept the car, those shortcomings were what I was going to next focus on. Plenty of reading to be found on G60s here - but just ask if youve any q's - happy to help out. You're doing what I always wanted to with mine - good luck with the project :) Might be easier for you to use a thread under the Members Gallery too for a build diary?

I always wanted a 5/6 speed close ratio box with atb diff for my old G60. Same would apply for the current VR! Interested to see the ratios. What would be the recovery of a broken Gemini set - or since theyre discontinued - is there any support/possibility of purchasing a replacement? *watching carefully for a price coming up...* So when you making up a price? ;)

looks awesome - those wheels look superb on it. Have you routed the Cult vents to anything? I think you missed a bit btw :lol:

so you swapped over and no probs... what colour is it?

Thanks Dinkus - I've got the 'knobbly' one that you described - you push/pull the knob to open/close the sunroof (no funny jokes please lol) I don't recognise the 525 part number you spoke of?

1HO 959 855 B is the part number on my old sunroof switch though! The 'new' part number 1H0 959 728 5YX is the one they tried giving me - which was wrong

thanks for the help :) early corrado? were those parts not shared with the mk2?