_leon_

also remember compression ratios - higher for charger, same as standard or up to 8.5:1 for turbos. i would really recommend you to ask as many questions as you can and discuss options with the tuners to start getting ideas of where you want your project to go - trust me it takes time!

they are non std pistons since they are oversized. iirc vag state the maximum bore diameter is 82.5mm. However 83mm has been proven to be ok. A lot of people seem to insist that you get your block ultrasonically checked before going out to 83mm. The standard is 86.4mm. The 16v using 92.8mm. The likes of those off the shelf pistons are likely fine when you use the std crank - baring in mind jabba offer the 1870cc conversion therefore retaining the original crank and rods. henny's conversion and ones offered by g-werks etc etc change the rods and crank so this will be considered during piston design. if this isn't quite correct then someone will flag it up soon enough. you'd be best to ask about complete packages offered by various companies and draw your own thoughts/requirements from the information you gather. It takes time to make your mind up as you only want to spend this kind of money once ideally - and like henny already said - you don't want an engine that fails to satisfy or limits your options after a year once your thirst for more kicks in. *mod edit* - Double post removed - Henny

its apparently better than mist from the oil... been using it for 6 months and its fine. monthly should be enough.

around 40 each. can be difficult to get it and out too.

being so rare is surely a good thing - but personally that red interior just doesn't do it for me! horses for courses

copy cat ;)

from what i have been looking at using a bore of 83mm with the std crank and rods will give you a displacement of 1870cc. If you use either different rods or another crank/rods then you go past that to 1940cc - again with an 83mm bore. There is a way however to get 1980approx using an 82.5mm bore and using another crank - i just haven't worked it out yet or read enough. again you'd save money by going to JE directly - about 150 cheaper iirc. its a tough call about money - i priced up work with a well known tuner and it wasn't very far off what i had calculated doing it myself. Granted i could have chosen stronger rods/arp bolts etc - but considering 200-300 was the difference in price, i'd be getting all the building/machining/cleaning/painting/parts/new fixings etc etc etc all included - can't help but deny for the money its a really good deal - I'm very tempted myself. good luck with your project

interested to hear the response to this....

@kevHaywire arent you running wilwood 4 pots? if so - how have you found them?

and pics of the rx's?

ah buy them if you like them! who cares if they are fake split rims or not - its your money.

wilwood and tarox make up some 4pot kits - looked into the wilwoods earlier in the year.

or 480ohms....??

that link doesnt seem to work....?

Hi mate. Hows yr car? Well after its 5 month rebuild my car is now running. I had alot of help from here. Well all apart from my window cables that have snapped this week As some girls take an interest in me and the car. My mate buts in who drives a knackered 167000 mile Diesel Vectra 'his windows don't work though' !!! So just away of saying thanx to all on the forum really. I think that a lack of photo's is the forum's only weakness. On my previous Saab forum we loaded it with how too's n photo's. In the end nobody used their Haynes manual. 1st hand knowledge was much quicker and more acurate.[/quote:ee738] Hey man - the cars ok thanks! Plenty to be replaced and ready to get the engine rebuild under way this weekend. garage setup ready to start the work, initial tools and parts bought - so just need to get the engine out. Hope it doesn't take more than 2 months though... was that a complete overhaul you made? or the engine alone? Godo to hear you're back up and running - bet it feels fantastic... Agree on the forum outlook - g60 and 16v owners should be alike with the fixes they have to continually make - sure my car is relaible as I've driven it for a few months now with no runnign problems - but other little things always need attention, window mechs, alarm setup, locks, etc etc - you know the usual. Photos are great - don't see it that often here unfortunately...

@2_Door_fun nice - a lot of effort you went to there!

stroeve (spelling?)

thanks again guys - i wont be touching the head since its almost 'new'. a local engineering shop will be checking over the block, pistons and crank - also the head to make sure its straight. In addition they'll be doing the cleaning, honing, balancing of everything plus some strengthening of the crank. That way I'll know if i need it ground and need oversized bearings. I'll just be doing the assembly! Good call about the head bolts! :)

thanks for the help - got things set up now so engines coming out tomorrow. :)

you'll still need a valve spring compressor to do that, but if its only done 5k i wouldn't bother. the head has been sitting indoors for about 2-3 months though - a friend advised it would be worth changing the stem seals in case they dried out - any thoughts on that?

@lottysvdub yeah i know - i never have enough tools. but thought an engine rebuild would require tools i dont normally need to know the name of ;) @Scruffythefirst cool thankyou - i only need to change the valve stem seals in the head as its only covered 5k miles - but the block is getting overhauled. had thought of a steam cleaner - but the air line is a nice idea. thanks

I am about ready to start on a G60 engine rebuild project - standard rebuild with a new head, cam etc - and have the majority of parts ready, a garage to use and some of the obvious tools (stand, crane, torque wrench, usual sockets etc etc). I haven't done something like this before and have some material to help me through - but am positive I need to stock up on some essential tools. Can anyone give me a list of what tools I will definately need please?

if i get drivers tailing behind i either leave them or slow right down to get rid of them. cant stand peopel doing that - or being stuck behind people going slowly... its tough as you most of the time you have the go to get rid of other drivers...

not sure mate - thats one of the hoses neilg60 was replacing. the shape should make it easy to buy at the dealers hows the car going btw?

People who drive in the right hand lane when there is nothing to overtake. Pisses me off everytime. People who see you waiting on the next exit (on a roundabout) and cant be bothered to indicate when they decide to turn off before reaching you. People who don't bother indicating to turn off when you're clearly behind them - and just brake. People who don't bother looking right when coming onto the motorway/dual carriageway from a slip lane. People who don't respect the term lane discipline on roundabouts. I could go on, but I myself am far from perfect and am 100% positive I piss others off on the road so really all its give and take = no point in getting wound up over it.