_leon_

was that the fuse on the actual loom itself?

whats the fix for this dinkus/et al - i have this at the moment with a newly fitted loom. Speaking to the maker of these looms and theyre happy to help me solve it - other than this theyre great :) any help apreciated

It seems after some more looking - the passenger door doesnt set off the central locking - but the driver does. However I've noticed the driver side handle has the wiring disconnected and taped up - its always been like this and when I reconnect it - it immediately triggers the central locking. I think yourself Supercharged clarified this was a tired switch within the handle. Since its always been like this I'm assuming its safe to say that this is not the cause since it hasn't changed while I've owned the car! The alarm is from Sigma, but not sure what model it is. Its got the most annoying time out on the immobiliser though (i HATE it). So, the passenger handle may be the cause... Are there any checks anybody can suggest to try and confirm this being the case before just buying a new handle in hope? Thanks for the help :)

Been through various searches but nothing has come up to match this same problem. Last night the alarm goes off and after trying to reset it - i get error codes signalling the doors aren't closed/locked. This morning I've been out trying to find patterns and what might be causing it, what happens is: 1) Using the alarm fob, the car is amred, doors etc are locked via central locking. 2) The alarm signals the doors aren't locked/closed. 3) Alarm goes off! 4) Locking the doors manually via the key sets of central locking 50% of the time, the other 50% it just locks the related door. So I've checked: 1) the pump, the actuators and the air lines - all ok 2) the fuses for any blown ones - nothing 3) wires for any broken leads or connectors - found the driver side door multi plug has a tiny amount of green/white corrosion that i've scraped away as much as I can. Still have the problem and now not sure where to go... Are the fuse(s) related found within the main fuse box or anywhere else? I've checked the fuse thats on the drive side wireset - visually its fine. What do I need to do with a multimeter to check all is working? Any help appreciated :)

keep saying this to folk - people are quick to judge and slate others in forums - noonse else pays anything towards your car so don't waste time getting knocked back by negative opinions.

great looking car - always encouraging and inspiring to watch a project come together so well. keep it up fella :)

good plan. i've decided to stick with the g60 engine - but thats after speaking to a lot of people and finding out costs, who can offer what, where, when etc etc. most of the info is fresh in my head so ask away if i can help. I am sure a lot of people would say get the bodywork done first then tackle the engine. I've dealt with all the dents, rust etc - but not gone the full way with a respray. I'll do that and the wheels at the very last when the engine etc is totally sorted. If I was to write the car off tomorrow then theres a better chance to use the engine again rather than the shell etc. Just my opinion mate. But a lot of it depends on your circumstances. Do you have a garage to store it - do you have a 2nd car - do you have the cash to get others to do everything for you etc etc.

getting your pg block overhauled and fitting a replacement (and better flowing) 8v head will be cheaper than a 20vt but not by a massive amount. but it depends on what you want. don't be turned off the idea of building up your g60 up instead of goign down the 20vt route. youll always get swamped with peoples opinions - but its what you want that counts - its you whos spending your money not anyone else. do research on all your options and speak to loads of people about their engine conversions - ask whatever you can - people who have gone that far are usually passionate about their project and wont mind helping you out. I've recently done this (thanks to all who answered all my questions - appreciated!) and trust me it helps a lot. Try not to let your budget take over your plans/ideas - time can combat the budget and ultimately you'll be spending a lot of money either way so you want to take the route you really want, not the one that suited your budget during the month xxx etc etc. What it all boils down to is : form your own opinions/plans before getting sidetracked by comments on a thread that may only help to confuse you. Good luck!

That would make sense. The gap on mine is around 5mm = not satisfactory at all. Sure that can be sorted (with A LOT of patience)

tell me about the ££'s... the lip on the door was spot on i take it? thinking that must be what is making mine such a bar steward to do it. getting the old one out was a horrendous excercise. The metal within the seal was unwilling to move completely. hammer and wood for tomorrow.

did the old one come out easily too?

i didnt try the hammer and wood approach - in hindsight that would have been a good idea. i just used the good old hands on method. and it was a right bitch as it just wouldn't go in. you cant fully slide it in as the end seal in the way so i had to half slide it in and then push the rest in. the bit that was the most difficult was where the window (when fully down) almost touches the seal allowing zero room for moving the seal around. i'll have a stab at it again tomorrow

its rusty under the seal - so i'm going to get a body shop to fit it after theyve treated it - and leave the passenger side one well alone as there is only 1mm of space if that... i'll probably be forced to get another seal - so i MAY try it again. any help from people who have 'easily' done this please please tell me how!

I changed the driver side one tonight as it was sitting out more or less full length - but noticably more in the middle. Getting the old one out was a complete nightmare. It just would not budge. Getting the new one in was almost worse. It wouldnt just 'pop' in at all - I had to try and slide it in and give it some force. Sure in the process I have a) kinked the seal and b) tampered with the lip of the door - as now it neither sits close to the glass or allows the window up freely. I'm both stumped and throughly f**ked off! any words of wisdom on how you managed to get the seal in and out would be appreciated as I'm determined to give this another go tomorrow when I've regained some patience...

that garage is talking mince. they did mine less than a week ago and mine is lowered to the same. i had to have mine reversed on due to the low front (your splitter should not cause the same issue). Not sure about the different setting bit - can someone clarify? I would try and find somewhere else - possibly try calling a garage you use and ask where they would recommend. Then you can decide on the axle - basically - dont take that garages word as final. Does gsf or euro car parts do the cable?

theres one on ebay just now

oh bad luck mate. sorry to hear that. not sure how to check for a bent axle - someone will soon though - keep me posted on how you get on.

or buy one off ebay thats straight for 99p ;)

little point in quarelling over personal taste tbh.... :roll: :lol:

But as said earlier - the metal spot welded to the frame has no tears etc in - it just seems the lever or the brackets connected to the lever are bent.

Is this not the fix?

personally a g60. and if i lost this one I'd buy another not a vr or valver. no point in debating why - horses for courses etc.

interesting to see regardless. and besides youve only yourself to please not anyone else.

whats happened with this project Gareth?

for both track rods (with ends)? Luke mine were 45 a piece - and they were left and right specific... Have you got the part numbers there? I would like to check since youve mentioned that.