coolrado

it's the opposite way with the offset, the higher the number the further in they will be so et 50 wont fit unless you use spacers. by the way you have a duplicate post, if you click on the little X in the top right corner you should be able to delete it.

yeah number 23 is a standard fitment, but there are 2 versions, the dusty region version, presumably used in ........er dusty regions :lol: and the standard ones we have.

are you sure its not just the dusty region seals that are discontinued? I think i saw the dusty region kit fitted to a white US spec G60 at one of the shows (Tempest's car i think) and the lower seals where bigger than the standard ones. vagcat shows them as number 23 on the diagram 535837913 for the left 535837914 for the right 21.35 euro's each. If one of them is discontinued, you should just be able to get two of the same side and add a couple of holes as they are both the same apart from where the holes are.

some wheels like BBS's ect do have quite a strong and thick finnish which is not very easy to remove with the more gentle media blasting processes like bead blasting or nutshell blasting, so steel shot is sometimes used, but as mentioned this tends to pit and roughen the surface which can sometimes show through, although the rougher finnish does act as a very good key for the paint or powdercoat. When chemical dipping is used it's usually, Acid dipping for steel wheels or steel parts, Alkali dipping for alloy wheels or aluminium parts. There wont be much left of an alloy wheel if you put it in an Acid tank :lol:

Have you tried opening the bonnet at night to check for sparks which will be a lot more obvious in the dark, or wait for a dry day and then spray different bits with a water mister bottle until it starts to play up to locate the problem. It might be worth changing the dizzy cap and rotor arm anyway as mine looked fine and was only a couple of months old, but there was actually a hairline crack between the centre electrode and one of the outer connectors that only effected it when damp, i have also had a coil that was shorting out when it was damp.

hire a carpet cleaner or find someone with a vax wet and dry, and do the whole interior with it, you will be amazed how much crap comes out of the driver carpet, you couldnt even see the purple stripes in the pattern on my seats until I used the carpet cleaner. Just make sure you get a carpet cleaner with a hose rather than one of the rotary brush types, the one i hired came with much more shampoo than i needed and cost 15 quid all in for a week, oh and also wait for a sunny day so you can leave all the windows and doors open to let it dry.

the part number and diagram number are above the description of each item, so 50 N 90429401 nut, square M8 / Looks correct to me. or pick up an M8 square nut from B&Q.

sounds about right, the exhaust runs underneath the tunnel and will cause it to heat up a bit, especially when sitting in traffic, it might be worth checking that the heat shielding is still in place and wasnt removed by the previous owner for some reason if its getting too hot, does the exhaust knock at all when going over bumps?

I wouldnt worry about the plastic platform, I haven't heard of any failures on them yet, and they are the same ones fitted to the KW coilovers (in fact they have KW written on them) so there are plenty of them out there. I have heard of quite a few failures on aluminium platforms though, from snapping or corroding. I too have the hicon GT's and have covered plenty of miles with them and they have been great, no complaints.

no sorry, i meant the front hub outer thread is an m20 metric fine, it appears like he has an m20 by 2.5 mm pitch die which is the standard m20 pitch i think the fine is something like 1.5mm pitch

I thought the stub axle end was an M20 metric fine, that looks like a standard m20 die. would it not be just as cheap and easy to get a new outer cv joint and stub?

you can do this with the stand alone central locking kit from microscan, (also sold by maplin under a different name), but you can just wire the solenoids to the door handle mech instead of the central locking then change the connections over slightly, you then have two buttons on the remote, one for the drivers door, one for the passenger door, i did this on my mr2 and it worked great.

I didn't say that, i said it takes two weeks for your car to show up on the ANPR system as having no tax once it has run out (according to the DVLA woman), once you buy your tax online it should be pretty much instant though. and the last three times i have done it, the disk has arrived within 4 days, which is a hell of a lot less stressful than going into my nearest post office which is usually full of coffin dodgers than smell of wee, and has usually run out of all the forms they need :censored:

you can't get pattern part corrado wings, but good second hand ones do turn up on ebay frequently, second hand genuine ones would be better anyway as all of the pattern vw body panels i have seen have been pretty crap, badly moulded or too thin. just make sure you get a matched pair of the correct ones, as early and late are a slightly different shape, both will fit though.

from looking round on the net it looks like the link from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder under the rubber boot is threaded and adjustable to set the possition of the pedal, is it possible the lock nut may have come loose and its wound itself out a bit?

it's not very clear

Phew I got worried when i saw the thread title, i thought they where going to start taxing internet porn :pale: I was told by someone at the DVLA when i phoned them that it would take about 14 days before it would be logged with the ANPR system as having no tax on the vehicle (but was told thats not official and i shouldnt tell anyone), but in the mean time if you are pulled without a disk or an out of date one they can still do you for failure to display, but they wont do you for no tax, i just printed out the receipt from the online tax application and kept in in the car for a couple of days until the new one arrived, which may work depending on whether it's a reasonable copper or a north wales copper who stops you :wink: just dont park it anywhere a traffic warden will see it.

Maybe a dwarf has been driving it whithout you knowing :wink:

Never heard of a pedal being too far up before??? are you sure that there isn't an end stop missing or broken somewhere, possibly a broken or dislodged circlip in the master cylinder that stops the piston travelling back too far, there is usually something stopping the pedal from going too far up. knackered slave or master cylinders, clutch, thrust bearing or pipes should only cause the pedal to drop or stay down. Or as dr_mat said :wink:

bargain :thumbleft:

Glad it's sorted, did they glue the pin in place or secure it in any other way?

here you go, first search result Clicky but instead of just pushing the pin back in make shure to either glue it or dent the edge of the hole over, otherwise it will do exactly the same thing very quickly.

Did a search and couldn't find much on it :( The car is at the Volkswagen dealership now, so hopefully they'll sort it! just hope they dont say you need a new steering column, as if they dont know how to repair it that is all they will do and they are not cheap :(

Do a search on it as it's happened to quite a few people before, its usually caused by a small hardened steel pin that becomes loose and slides out, which can usually be fixed by either glueing it back in or putting it back in and then using a centre punch to close the hole over the top of it, either way you will need to remove the steering column shroud to get at it.

Is it just a single click when you release the clutch or constant clicking with engine speed?