coolrado

should be fine depending on the width, i have a set of ET25 15" x 7.5" 4x100 azev A's on mine from an BMW E30, they sit thurther away from the shock body than the standard wheels and the outside edge sits a little further out, but they fit fine.

I think there are two different versions of these as well, the ones you have with the groove around end of the spokes and the other ones without the groove but usually have a machine cut face.

Have you checked that the nut below the top plate is also tight?

:)

that must be just for the label recycling codes might have go and clear out the stocks in my local tesco :lol:

yeah a friend of mine was checking the law on number plates recently as he is about to re-register his camper, there was some confusion at first regarding self adhesive plates being illegal but it turned out that was the vinyl printed types that people used to stick to bonnets and bumpers on mx5's and jag's ect. according to the DVLA, the police and VOSA there is no law that they knew of, against using adhesive tape to attach a plate to a vehicle, and many new cars are supplied with the plates attached by adhesive tape, it only states that the plate must be secure, not how it is secured. the type that are illegal are these ones.

Yes you can. but at around £30 seem a little excessive. hmm ..... i have a couple of old neoprene drysuits in the garage, they might be legless soon :lol: another option for tape on the threads is marine grade self amalgamating tape, it sticks to itself when stretched and then moulds itself together and wont leave any residue when removed, it should also be watertight.

Cant you get those neoprene jackets that wrap around coilovers to keep the crap out?

If you mean grease for the bearings, i think its LM (Lithium Moly)grease you need, you can get big plastic tubs of the castrol or comma grease from halfrauds or any other motor factors. this stuff and copper grease for the back of the brake pads it resists high temperatures and stops the pads squeeling, i find the stuff that comes in the pritstick style tube is the best stuff, its much less messy and seems a bit thicker(more like paste), so sticks to the back of the pads really well, and usually use a little on the threads of the wheel bolts. just make sure you dont get any on the braking surface of the pads or disk.

unfortunately not as the car is up on axle stands at the moment, i will get some this weekend though as its dark when i get home from work and there is no flash on my phone camera. as its for a 5thG 30gig video its basically just a slot cut into the bottom of the ashtray with the bottom half of an ipod docking cradle attached to the bottom of the ashtray. quite simple and cheap to do. you probably would'nt need to cut a slot in the bottom of the ashtray for the new nano, maybe just a smaller hole for the plug to fit through.

you have PM

a quick test to find out if its the headunit or the speaker is disconnect the speaker wires from the back of the headunit, then get an AA or AAA 1.5 volt battery and touch the speaker wires on to the +/- of the battery (doesnt matter which way round), you should hear the speaker click slightly or if you can see the speaker you should see it move, if it doesnt move or click its the speaker or speaker cable, if it does its the headunit or a bad connection at the back of the headunit. Alternatively you could just swap the left and right speaker connections to see if the other side works.

I have modified the rear ashtray slightly so my Ipod video now slots into a hole in the bottom of the ashtray which has the connector in and i can just close the lid over it.

simplest thing first, have you checked the left to right balance/fader is set correctly :lol:

M12 radius seat type.

Rather than trying to twist it, just push it to the side and then unhook, it should then release easily.

that it was cheaper than the golf gti, and he liked the rear headrests, that was about it really.

yep he said the rear headroom was just as crap as the old scirocco :lol:

are you sure they haven't got crossovers built into them? some pioneer and kenwood component sets have the capacitor or crossover network in the tweeter enclosure or on the back of the main drivers, i would have thought if the tweeters have been run at any decent level without any crossovers they would be completely fried by now.

Its going to be a couple of weeks at least as all of my spare time is taken up with rebuilding my engine at the moment. If I do start making these I will make them in batches and only take orders when they are allready made. I would like to know if people would be willing to drill the rear of the headlight housing or even the rear dust cap to fit them inside the headlights or whether they just want externally mounted kits.

If anyone is thinking of making these again these panasonic water proof relays would be ideal they are smaller than the stardard relays and better quality. What do people require in an uprated loom? single circuit (dipped or high only) or double circuit (dipped and high). On the kit i made for mine I used 4 seperate water proof relays and 5 fuses (individual fuses and 1 main) and all connections are soldered and sealed with adhesive lined heat shrink. If there is enough interest i might look into ordering some bits to make up a few kits. I may also look into making a relay kit which fits inside the headlight housing, this may require a couple of small holes to be drilled in the back of the headlights with water tight grommets, this would avoid any messing around with the headlight connectors, reduce the risk of corrosion and keep the engine bay neater.

Sounds like they effectively Wax-Oyl (for want of a better word) the car when it's done then. Its passivation so will most likely be bright zinc passivate, so basically like galvanising the whole car which would be pretty nice. I have seen split screen camper vans litterally fall apart once they have been dipped in the acid and alkali tanks, as the owners didnt realise they had so much filler in them :lol: i have also heard owners asking where the door handles from the camper are, assuming that the dippers had removed them, its quite funny when the dippers tell them that the handles would have completely dissolved as they are chrome plated alloy :lol: they did this on camper van crisis on discovery and that one came out looking like swiss cheese there where so many holes in it.

there is also another way if you cant take the grill out and the cable or collar on the end of the cable has gone, you will need to get the car up on ramps or axle stands and get right underneath, then if you look up at the back of the front slam panel there should be a loop at the bottom of the metal rod for each bonnet catch, you will also notice the rods are hooked into hooks on the back of the slam panel, you need to unhook the rods and twist them until the catch is released. I will try and get photo's over the easter brake as my engine is coming out completely to be swapped.

yeah the up and down wobble wont be the top uj it will be the height adjuster mechanism, there is a little hardened steel pin that sometimes comes loose or falls out altogether, if the pin is ok and still there it will just be worn teeth on the mechanism.

There are two Universal joints on the column, one down at the bottom by the pedals and another at the top where the adjustable steering column hinge is, the bottom one is the one that comes loose and can be tightened up with the pinch bolt, the top one is part of the column and cannot come loose(apart from wear in the u/j). it looks like the problem poll250 is describing is a loose steering wheel height adjusting mechanism which isnt to do with the u/j's, which will either be down to a loose pin that the mechanism teeth latch onto or just a worn out mechanism(usually worn or bent teeth). i'm sure it could be tightened up a bit with a bit of messing around though.