coolrado

Well it wasn't quite a hole but it was a decent sized outward dent and they ripped the metal underneath when they tried to pull it back up. As Judith said its the colour thats the problem, all the flat reds and nugget yellow suffer quite badly with oxidisation fading, so if the bonnet is painted it will look great at first, but as soon as the rest of the car fades a bit the bonnet will stick out like a sore thumb, it should be fine on most other colours as they dont tend to fade that noticeably, the other problem is getting foam for the underside if its an early bonnet as its now obsolete, as are the early bonnets, you will also need a new bonnet prop and rubber gromet for the bottom of it, dont let them straighten the old one as it will wont be as strong any more. Here is the link to my old thread RAC bodge which to be fair to them was sorted out in the end after a lot of hastle.

the reason the rado ones are so long is that they are meant to hold the seatbelt forward making it easier to reach, its definately worth getting the genuine vw ones as i had some pattern ones from one of the shows and they both snapped within a month and fitted badly.

a friend of mine had the same problem with a mk2 golf and it was just a dead regulator,the voltage regulator is a simple item to replace on a g60 alternator, just 2 phillips head screws and should look like this.....

try and use products that contain lanolin, which is an extract from sheeps wool, horseriders have been using it for years to look after leather saddles and tack it keeps it supple and maintains a good shine, you can usually find loads of good traditional leather care products in places like farmstores.

is this for direct fit or fit, but with modification or addition of a subframe??

has the motor been removed during installation? if the cog (sprocket) on the motor isnt in sync with both the left and right cables it can cause one side of the roof to drop more than the other, you may have to remove the motor and manually align the sunroof and then re fit the motor.

I have seen a yellow headlining option for the corrado, when i was looking to buy a corrado i had a look at a silver G60 in sheffield, it was an absolute heap, and he was such a heavy smoker all the cream bits of interior where yellow :pukeleft:

someone told me they are the same as the ones on a vw caddy/SEAT inca van, dont know if they are any cheaper or easier to find?

I would also go for the Manual Saab I dont really like the look of the saloon version but the estate is quite a nice looking car. The two people i know who have owned SAAB's didn't have a bad word to say about them, both old SAAB 900 turbo's one had 150k on it and still drove like new without a single fault in the two years he owned it, apart from cracking the turbo and bending the exhaust after he reversed it into a high curb :lol: , and the other one had 270k on the clock and the only things it had wrong with it in the two years he owned it where worn out suspension bushes and a couple of dodgy injectors. The newer SAAB's seem to have lost the old man stigma they used to have but i dont think you can say the same about BMW loosing its tosser stigma :lol: . although the estate version also looks nicer than the saloon version IMO

how much is the other saab going for?

Do you need both? I though they provided +ve and -ve as some vehicles have different triggers for the interior light.

it looks like the wire with the blue arrow has been bent just above the tip of the blue arrow, it should be straight, once its straight it should reach the hole. although its worth investigating why it bent in the first place, part of the heater flap system may be jammed.

and the different fogs and indicators.

I got mine from a seat leon, it sits about an inch lower down as the threaded bit inside goes almost to the top, the shift pattern is the same and the leather feels like its better quality and is perforated at the front and back, the gaitor also fits the corrado surround perfectly.

I have'nt really done much with the engines in MK3's apart from change a couple of lambda's and a few engine mounts, but two of them had corrosion problems with the underside of the car, specifically where the front subframe mounts to the floor, one of them, L reg had a few spots of rust around the mounting points and a few holes in both sill's and the other one an M reg had no mounting points left at all, they had completely rusted away which he ended up scrapping as he didnt trust it, neither of these where GTI's though so may not have been protected to the same standard or they had been mistreated, it might be worth checking though. Oh and the glove box lid catches have a tendancy to break.

when the clutch went on my van they trailered me from oxford to north wales, i had roadside, relay and homestart on that cover, and they dropped it off at my choice of garage.

Do they not tow to the card holders address though? it depends what sort of cover you have i think, if you have roadside and relay i think they can take you to wherever you where going, in this case just tell them you where on your way to your home address.

yep, thats correct, i have actually driven it without the clocks in and the spoiler still operates as normal.

do you know anyone with an AA card? I dont think they check if a car has a current MOT or Tax on it, just disconnect something they wont be able to sort out there and then, and tell them it broke down when you got there and they should trailer it back for you.

i'm in wrexham if thats any better, i also have a spare that i know works, i will dig it out tomorrow when i get back from work.

you can also get them from RS or Farnell, should be cheaper, they are a great idea if you suffer electrical gremlins. you can also get resettable circuit breaker fuses to replace the standard blades which also idicate when they are tripped, most lorries now use the circuit breakers instead of fuses.

the corroded contacts in the washer jets can be replaced with the flat pins from a scart plug, it takes about 5 minutes per side to sort out.

As Supercharged said there shouldnt be any sealant but as most screen fitters dont have more than a couple of brain cell's to rub together they resort to PU adhesive sealant, be very carefull if you try levering it off, most of the time the trim will snap before the sealant lets go. The best way to get it off is buy one of those cheap craft knives (the ones with the extendable snap off blades) and push the blade out all the way, this should be thin and long enough to steadily slice away at the sealant bit by bit as you lift the trim gently away without damaging the trim or the car.

have you actually contacted your insurers to see if its covered? my father was 3rd part fire and theft and still only had to pay £50 quid for the screen through the insurance.

when i fitted an uprated loom to mine the difference was very noticeable, after i fitted the loom dipped beam was as bright as high beam before the loom was fitted. I now run standard H4's for dipped beam and 180w H7's for high beam and they are more than bright enough :lol: