coolrado

polyurethane adhesive sealant would be the best stuff to use, the stuff i get from the local motor factors is U-POL Tigerseal, but loctite also do the same stuff, once set it is incredibly strong and the arch would be more likely to break before the adhesive gave up, its usually about £4 a tube and is available in black or grey.

clicking with the steering at full lock is usually worn out outer cv joints, if they are really bad it could also explain the slack/clatter when coming on and off the power. I had the same symptoms on mine for a while (without clicking on full lock) and it turned out to be collapsed damper springs on the clutch, which finally broke free and jammed the clutch while on the motorway, the clutch had loads of friction material left probably only worn half way after 112,000miles but the springs had fallen to bits.

I thought if the other party was to blame you could demand that it was was repaired even if it was uneconomical to repair (within reason). it's different if it's your fault and your insurance is footing the bill. you may be better off with good condition used panels rather than new ones, bodyshops often dont paint the bits you cant see very well and just leave the crappy black base coat which lets rust start really quickly.

I wouldnt weld anything to the original shock tubes unless you want them to go pop :shock: i have seen them attached to the shock body using PU adhesive on a mk1 caddy though :?

the boot light wiring will easily cope with 4amps.

yeah its definately worth changing the pressure sensor on top of the filter housing, when mine went, the plastic bit on the top of the sensor was blown off completely and it was like a fountain of hot oil spraying all over the engine, its amazing how much oil can be lost through such a small hole in a matter of a few seconds :shock:

nope the 3-in-1 ptfe is a very fine oil spray (a bit like WD40), the lube that G-Werks sell is much thicker and very sticky, the 3-in-1 stuff would just get blown out.

what are you wanting to run off it? depending on how much current you need you could just run it off the supply for the boot light. If you find a reasonably new passat estate or similar in a scrappy they have quite nice cigar sockets in the boot with a little flap over the top with 12v supply written on it, they also have a simple nut fixing on them to mount them.

I try to avoid sniffing cat piss :lol: So do I, thats why we took him to the vets to have his knackers off, :lol: he scent marked the washing line :silent: :gag: :pukeright:

have you checked the gearbox oil level? there is a big hex key socket plug on the front face of the gearbox, with that removed and the car on a level surface the oil should be level with the bottom of the hole, to fill it simply pour the oil in (may need to improvise a funnel and section of pipe to get at it) until it starts to overflow then put the plug back in, if it isnt leaking it might be worth draining the oil anyway and chucking some MT90 in there as it does improve the shift a bit and the old oil is usually all glittery from all the bits of gears that have worn away over the years.

I always thought gearbox oil smells like tom cat p!ss when they scent mark, horrible smell thats really hard to get rid of :lol: favourite places for gearbox leaks are the drive shaft flange seals, or sometimes the seal on the splined shaft in the bell housing.

most popular recomendations on here are usually synta silver for the engine oil and Redline MT 90 for the gearbox oil. there are no pressure sensors for the gearbox oil as it isnt pumped around, the gears just sit in the oil and drag it round, if you are loosing gearbox oil you will need to get it sorted, it should never loose a drop of gearbox oil. if your engine oil level is ok but you are still getting the buzzing it could be a dead pressure sensor, or low oil pressure due to a dead oil pump.

if its setting off the buzzer it wont be the gearbox oil, it will be the engine oil. :?

If the slave cylinder is not leaking or sticking i wouldnt replace it, maybe clean it out and check it, but first i would just try greasing the pivot points, my clutch kit came with some grease to apply to the pivots and the thrust bearing sleeve.

there are a few different contacts in the switch, sometimes the starter wont work or only works if you fiddle with the possition of the key and other times the starter will run but it wont supply the coil. are you getting any pulsed output from the dizzy to the input side of the coil when cranking, also do you have an alarm/immobiliser?

if it only sparks once when you turn off the ignition I would guess at a dodgy or worn out ignition switch, when they start to wear out they tend to only start when you turn the key back slightly from the starter possition.

ah, then its a case of finding one of those mileage correction services in the yellow pages or on the tinternet, or you could allways try the ferris bueller method :lol:

it usually involves dismantling the clocks and sliding the pin for the small plastic indexing gears out, setting the number wheels to how you want them and then carefully fitting the indexing gears back again. i did this with a spare set of clocks when i thought mine where broken but it turned out to be a loose contact.

its usually caused by the small pivot ball on the end of the clutch release fork being dry which causes the creaking and sometimes stiff clutch, its as simple as applying some thick high temp grease to the small pivot ball on the end of the clutch fork and another bit on the end of the bar that comes out of the clutch slave cylinder, i did this on mine when i changed the clutch and it completely stopped the creaking, it also made the clutch a bit smoother, I only knew to do this as i had seen the same thing on a couple of fiats before.

have a look at some different VW's in scrappy's, some allready have vents in that possition, you could cut it out and screw or rivot it in or maybe even get it plastic welded in.

cheers :thumb right:

if the sunroof is opening when you arm the alarm it sounds like the motor and mechanism are out of sequence, so when the sunroof is closed, it thinks its open and try's to close it, but opens it instead (now i'm confused) :lol: it might be worth removing the motor mech, setting the motor to the closed possition, setting the sunroof to the closed possition and then put it back together.

will you be looking to sell the HID kit when you remove it? if so i might be interested.

yeah there are corrado's on here with more miles than that, and i have driven more miles than that and im only 26, although thats mostly been in company vans. i think its more the age of the car and the owner that are the impressive bit.

pretty sure it should all fit ok, the only bits that could be a problem are the front brace which may interfere with the bonnet depending on the manufacturer, and the rear parcel shelf support may need trimming down a bit to fit the rear brace.