coolrado

a few more piccies

wasnt a bad show, a bit better than last year, the overall standard was quite high although there where a few questionable styling modifications there including a hideous pink and white SEAT with flowers airbrushed all over it, and some very ott stretched tyres. there was a very interesting (to me anyway) electric polo there, which although unfinnished was turning a lot of heads. I was expecting a better standard from some of the foreign cars there, it seemed some of the home grown mk1's, jettas ect had been done to a better standard with more tastefull mods, corrado's where also a bit thin on the ground. it also seemed like there was no autojumble this year, unless i managed to miss it? did get myself a bit of a bargain though, a 1/18 revell corrado VR6 for £18 because the plastic on the front of the box had a hole in it lol, hmmm do i sell it or strip it down and repaint it tornado red instead.

yep i'll have a set.

well after many hours of experimenting with layouts and hundreds of solder connections they are mostly done, still waiting for the tinted polycarbonate to arrive to make the lenses, the fogs are insanely bright, dont really look like it in the photos because the camera adjusts the gain, but they are too bright to look at directly for any length of time. [ATTACH=CONFIG]44463[/ATTACH] indicators [ATTACH=CONFIG]44464[/ATTACH] fogs [ATTACH=CONFIG]44465[/ATTACH]

I had azev A's on my corrado when I first had it, and they came off a BMW 325 cabriolet lol

Sounds like the voltage regulator on the back of the clocks is fried, black square thing with three legs attached to a metal plate on the right hand side, cheap to replace if that's the problem, if your handy with a soldering iron.

Seems to work fine on my motorola MicroTAC, although I can't seem to get at my PM's on my ZX81, and it won't let me upload attachments on my amstrad E-m@iler :-(

Stupid question, but have you checked the fuse? Has the MFA display stopped working as well?

Seems to work very well in the iPhones opera browser, quicker to load and easier to read.

its much better to replace the bulbs in all of the switches with leds as the heat from the bulbs is the main cause of broken switches, maplin do 3mm 12v ready leds that dont need resistors that should be a straight swap for the bulb http://www.maplin.co.uk/components/opto ... ndard-leds or there are plenty of other colours and ultrabright leds to choose from but they will need resistors in series with them.

Since i have had the corrado the speedo and rev counter have always been a bit dodgy, they would randomly twitch or jump around, they would sometimes be fine for days then start twitching again and the mfa time and trip would also reset itself. After fitting a faulty ECP voltage regulator last week which fried itself the clocks have been even worse, twitching much more and randomly dying completely. I decided to take the clocks apart and check for any obvious signs of damage, and noticed the two 220uF electrolytic capacitors where both swollen and distorted, I picked up two new capacitors from maplin (42p) soldered them in and they have been fine ever since, it also seems to have stopped the time and trip from resetting itself. I have seen a few posts on here over the years from people with twitchy clocks so it would be worth checking if this is the cause before shelling out for a new set of clocks.

while doing a few other bits on the car I bought a new voltage regulator as the brushes where quite worn and after a few miles this afternoon i noticed the wipers where quicker than normal and the indicators where flashing quickly, went back home and measured the output of the alternator and it seemed ok (about 14.3v), then this evening after about 5 miles the headlights got brighter, then very dim, then the stereo decided to turn itself off and fold away then it started missfiring and eventually cut out as i pulled into the petrol station, popped the bonnet to find thisvoltage reg.JPG[/attachment:3i123e40] looks like a salvador dali regulator :brickwall: luckily i hadnt thrown the old bosch regulator away so i phoned my dad and got him to drop it off for me, a quick bump start and it was fine. i also ordered what i was told on the phone was a BERU rotor arm and what they sent me was a cheap crappy VEMO rotor arm that fits so badly it had about 4 degrees of slack in it, i really should stop buying non OEM components, nothing but trouble.

Do you find it hard to resist stroking the dash? lol

new pulley, drilled and pinned ready to go, just need to find my bigger torque wrench and line all the marks up tomorrow, also noticed the 12 month old (non genuine) cambelt tensioner seems a bit rough so its just as well thats being changed, also the new bolt i bought from vw is not pre oiled.

I have had a few good deals from http://www.carstereodeals.co.uk/ when they used to be hendon car stereo. If you want to listen to 6 music or other digital only stations then dab is worth getting but if you just want FM stations your better off with a non dab radio as even a perfect dab signal tends to sound a little compressed compared to a decent FM signal.

Yeah I got a new bolt, pulley and 4 bolts for the outer pulley, about 30 quid for the lot, just can't do anything with them until I'm back from Scotland.

I did see a very cool roof rack system at llandegla mountain bike centre a while ago, the rack hinged down either side of the car (was on a Volvo xc90) so you clamped the bike on at ground level and then hinged it up with the aid of a gas strut onto the roof, it looked very sturdy even with two chunky full sussers on it but also looked quite expensive. I have a Thule and a mont blanc roof rack with bike clamps for the corrado and the mont blanc fits way better and are much sturdier the bars are also the aerodynamic aluminium type and don't make as much wind noise. Apparently if you order the Thule rack ignore the bit about needing the short roof pack, it seems this was an error as they where unaware of the rear mounting points under the rubber seal.

Yeah my original one has done 170k but the output is reduced and intermittent, got mine from ECP as well (that discount has saved me a fortune over the last couple of weeks) the original thimble type has a 100k km life span according to Bosch and the planar type is meant to last 160k km.

Nah the body looks identical to the old one just the tip that's changed, see pics ^^^^ supposedly it's a design that was originally used for wideband sensors but it's now being used on narrowband it also allows the heater to reach operating temperature quicker.

pinned?? :shrug: The pulley and face of the crank shaft are drilled to a precise size and a snug fitting hardened steel pin is used to lock them in the correct location, should offer a bit more protection than the crappy keyway. I just ordered the standard probe in the end, they have changed the design of the tip and heater element apparently the new one is a planar style now, according to the technical guy at bosch it should now last more than 160k.

There Is a bit of damage to the keyway (see pics in my post) viewtopic.php?f=1&t=100521 But it's not too bad and I will get it dressed flat and pin the crank and new pulley to make sure.

The bolt I bought 6 months ago from vw wasn't pre oiled, and I didn't know it needed to be, that might explain why it came loose then :brickwall: according to etka you DO have to replace it with a new one. Also according to that diagram above for the special tool, it is described as the "crankshaft sprocket" hold tool, that would suggest to me (and from the look of the diagram) that it bolts to two of the bolt holes on the crankshaft sprocket and not the flywheel, if that is the case I will get one made, has anyone on here actually used that tool or seen it being used? I also spoke to the snap-on guy this afternoon and he seems to think he can get that tool but he is coming back to me tomorrow with a price, guessing it won't be cheap though.

Which would mean taking the gearbox off to use that tool then, sod that I will put the hub back on and use the brakes instead :lol:

Cheers, will make sure it's threadlocked this time. Was also looking for some info about the g60 crank locking tool, from the basic illustration I found it looks like it bolts onto the crank pulley using two of the 4 outer holes, the hub is off mine at the moment so I can't just put it in gear with someone on the brakes, I might get a mate of mine to make up a tool that uses all 4 of the bolt holes to hold it place while it is torqued up.

according to this thread the torque setting for the crank bolt is 90Nm + 1/4 turn, which is what i did 6 months ago when i changed the bolt but according to the manuals here http://volkswagen.msk.ru/engine/aaa_pg/ ... nkcase.pdf (page 3) it should be 90Nm + 1/2 turn , now my crank bolt has come loose im starting to believe the later is correct, if thats the case anyone who has changed the bolt using the directions on this thread should change the bolt again and use the correct setting to avoid a potenially expensive failure. where did the 90Nm + 1/4 turn come from?