coolrado

looks like the round section has snapped off on that one, there should be a flat round flange at the end facing toward you in that picture, i have had a couple of them break before and couldnt find any glue that would work on them.

you might be able to move the transponder reader coil out a little so its closer to the key chip or maybe the reader coil has started to break down and might need replacing, have you tried turning the chip around as it may read better on one side?

well really all you would need is one cable from the positive terminal of the battery with something like a 10amp fuse as close to the battery end as possible and run that down behind the bumper, and either just insulate the end of the cable with some waterproof tape that you can just tear off when its needed or fit a water proof connector to the end of it, then just connect the negative of your emergency source (battery, jump pack, or charger) to a bare bit of metal on the car (wheel bolt, brake disk, ect) and the positive to the cable.

a very simple solution to this is a short section of cable that you can hide up behind the bumper connected to the battery via a fuse, then if your car battery goes flat you simply connect a battery, jump pack, or even a battery charger to the cable just to give it enough power to operate the alarm or central locking, job done, will be doing this soon as im replacing the boot lock with a reversing camera.

i have done this on mine, i just used the spare output on my alarm to activate a standard universal central locking solenoid (same sort you can get in maplin) which is more than powerful enough and connected it to the lock mech in the tailgate, very simple to do and the only awkward bit was running the cable into the tailgate.

i think that clip is actually one of the springs that hold the plastic flap above the steering column surround up to fill the gap when the steering wheel is in the lower possition, i only know that as i found two of them on the floor of my corrado the same day i noticed the flap had dropped down, the switch clips look similar but they have a wider section at one end and i don't think they have a hole in them.

I tried every combination of tension, allignment, new pulleys ect, and all it did was extend the life of the belt a little, i just checked the paperwork to find out how long i had the toothed belt system and it seems like it was nearly two years not one, but the amount of time the car spent off the road due to the toothed belt was extremely frustrating. I still dont think it is worth doing for the tiny if any performance increase, a well maintained standard belt system shouldnt allow belt slip and if there is any slip it will probably help to protect the charger from shock loading. Most people i have talked to about the toothed belts have mentioned changing the belts every couple of months at least when the car is in daily use and being driven fairly quickly, whether they set them up or a garage fitted it for them.

I had a toothed belt system for about a year and destroyed 3 chargers. In the 4 years i used it with the standard belt system before and after the toothed belt i have had no problems whatsoever. I have noticed no difference in performance, the rolling road showed 1/2 a horse power difference so apart from the sound it really isnt worth the hastle IMO the only time i noticed any belt slip was when the tensioner and tensioner bushes where worn out or after driving through a big puddle. the problem seemed to be the teeth being ripped off the belt (also tried several different supposedly stronger uprated belts), the gaps left in the belt would cause the charger to stall and then rapidly start when the remaining teeth re-engaged, this sudden shock was just too much for the fragile displacer, I personally would never use a tooth belt system again. some things that did seem to improve the life span of the belt for a while was using a proper sprung dampened tensioner rather than the fixed adjustable one that was originally recommended, the belt tended to stretch a little under hard acceleration, this caused slack in the belt and caused it to jump teeth, but tension it too much and the belt would wear and snap in no time and put way too much pressure on the bearings, the other thing i found was getting rid of one of the idler pulleys and using a shorter belt as the toothed belt does not need to be wrapped around the pulleys as much as the ribbed belt, and wrapping it too far around the toothed pulleys caused the belt to ride up on the teeth as it stretched under acceleration. My whole toothed belt system is sitting in the shed and i will probably end up binning it TBH as it almost made me give up on the g-lader and even the corrado, but after talking to an old engineer friend of mine who persueded me to get rid of the toothed belt my faith was restored.

Thanks Coolrado! How much are the cables? £8.09 each plus vat for euro car parts, I did replace them about 3 years ago and used the genuine vw ones but the rubber bellows on the end of the cables had fallen apart and allowed water into the lining so they had both rusted up, the bellows on the eicher ones seem better quality to me but i suppose time will tell.

best way to get the end of the plastic guides out of those metal tubes is slide the metal tubes out through the gromit in the floor and just get a blow torch on the end of the metal tube while you pull the plastic guides out, they should come out nice and cleanly, i had to replace both of mine last week, it's also worth giving them a rub down and a decent coat of hammerite to stop it happening again. I found the cheap eichers handbrake cables from euro car parts where better than the vw oem ones and they seem to give a much firmer hand brake feel.

i have seen much worse examples of splitties restored to show winning condition, if the cargo floor is still intact as he said, that is better than the majority of resto projects, it's probably been quite well preserved in the depths.

not a bad days work, got mine ready for it's MOT, it's the first time i have really had to do anything to get it through. new front disks and pads new front tyres rear pads both handbrake cables replaced the rear flexi hoses stripped and painted all the hard brake lines both outer cv boots new radiator bead blasted and repainted the radiator cowling fitted new touch screen and updated the navigation drive from 2001 maps to 2009.

a mate of mine had a tuned Y10 turbo, insane little car, great fun, electric everything including rear quarters and a completely alcantera interior designed by FILA :lol: it was easy to get parts for as it was basically a fiat uno underneath and it never had a spot of rust on it, unfortunately it met a sticky end on a country road when he hit a landrover head on (not his fault)

the keys are unique to each set of wheel bolts, there are other ways to remove them though.

you would be better off getting the black carpets out of another rado, they are made from a synthetic fabric so very difficult to dye.

i would get the wheel, brake disk and caliper carrier off, then take the stub axle off, if the bearing is rumbling it's quite likely you have bent the stub axle, also check the angle of the flat plate on the rear beam that the stub axle bolts to and compare it to the other side of the car, to rule out any damage to the rear beam. a new stub axle is less than 20 quid so if the beam is ok it shouldnt be too bad, shouldn't be too hard to find a replacement wheel either.

where's that smug face smiley lol

the lambda sensor could be fine, but try checking the wiring to the connector on the lambda side and the loom side, it's quite common for the wires to corrode and snap.

spotted a white k plater on 5 spokes outside camberley auto factors in liphook on thursday while i was working there.

please note the knackered one's in my photo's are for a g60, the vr6 ones may look totally different when knackered.

was there some talk of another group buy being set up for the carbon bonnets?

I did have my name down on the group buy for one of the carbon bonnets from performance trim, unfortunately i had to hand in my notice at my previous job as the daily 200 mile round trip was starting to take its toll, so i had to pull out of the group buy. Now I am settled into my new job and my bank balance is looking a bit healthier I am considering getting the carbon bonnet again, I just wanted to know if anyone had any quality or fitment issues with the performance trim bonnets? Also any opinions for or against a carbon bonnet on a tornado red corrado?

are you saying the battery still has plenty of charge when this happens, everything just cuts out completely and then comes back on as normal, if so it may just be a dodgy ignition switch.

Cool cheers, I have just e-mailed them to see if they can do bright yellow as they only seem to show standard leather colours on their gallery.

I picked up the Felicia Fun yesterday and one of the things that needs doing on it is the steering wheel and gearknob need a bit of a refurb, I remember someone mentioning on here a while ago that there was a company that could supply colour matched leather repair kits, I have done a search but i can't seem to find the thread, any ideas what the company was or does this look a bit beyond help?