coolrado

yeah i know i will have no choice as far as informing the insurance goes, i phoned them as soon as i got home, i'm just hoping i can either get the money from it being written off and buy it back, or ask them if i can just get it repaired myself and not make a claim. and beleive me she was no "lady" heres the damage to hers, after the copper found her indicator in the hedge and plugged it back in.

I am absolutely gutted, driving home down a back lane that i know to be muddy and tight so i was going really slowly, I came up to a blind bend to be faced with a landrover discovery going way too fast, i managed to get mostly up on to the grass verge to the point i grounded out and she just carried on coming down the middle of the road and basically crashed into me while i was stationary, after getting out and checking the damage, the massively fat slob of a woman waddled out of her car and instantly started saying ooohhhh my back and neck, and saying about how all of her kids in the car had whiplash. I called the police and ambulance as she said her kids where injured and she was starting to get really mouthy, the ambulace turned up and checked them all out and basically said they where just shaken up, i have absolutely no injuries so i doubt her or her kids have any but you can guarantee she will be claiming for everything she can get. The copper said it will just be a knock for knock as it is a single width muddy lane on a blind bend, i'm just not really sure what to do now. i know my insurance will write it off as an uneconomical repair and my excess is about £350 its going to need, bonnet, wing, bumper, left hand indicator and slam panel, the chassis and inner wing are fine and it still drives fine, i just need to find the parts. her indicator also flew off and smashed my windscreen, so i need to get that replaced too. i would rather just pay for it to be repaired myself as its going to be a pain in the arse and cost me a fortune if i go through the insurance. really dont want to scrap it but i might have no choice.

i bought a set of those poly topmounts and after looking at the design of them and a few searches on the net i have decided not to fit them, as they are a terrible design, i was so concerned about the design i phoned the company up and spoke to the guy who designed them and it was obvious he had absolutley no understanding of how the suspension system on the corrado worked. He even admitted that they originally supplied them without the steel plate in the middle and only added it after someone came back to them after the shock strut pushed through the topmout and ruined his bonnet, the only problem is that the steel plate does not allow the shock strut to twist as you steer and there have been several reports of the plate bending even after a short time.

has to be powdered toast man[ATTACH=CONFIG]55929[/ATTACH] or iron man[ATTACH=CONFIG]55933[/ATTACH]

really? seems like the warning triangle and hazard lights would be more effective, it looks like engineers chalk so would be pretty crap for writing on the road and only really noticable from above. just seems like an odd thing to be in the first aid kit.

was giving the corrado interior a bit of a clean the other day and decided to have a quick look in the first aid kit as it's never been opened and i noticed it has a stick of chalk in it? what the hell is it for? as i have done a few first aid courses and never noticed a stick of chalk being mentioned is it for drawing the outline of dead bodies following an accident? a possible remedy for heartburn? is it for drying out vulcanising glue while fixing a puntured innertube on your bicycle? im confused

Simple to check if the pinned crank pulley is lined up, the TDC marks on the pulley and flywheel should line up.

have you tried taking the rubber boot off to have a look how much space there is between the rubber and the lower steering column cv joint inside it? you might be able to push the rubber boot in a bit to give you more space to fit a heat shield.

they are available from the dealers, i bought one about a month ago and it was about £8 when i asked over the phone they said it was obsolete but when i went into the branch and they looked it up on etka it was still available, you will also need the new o-ring to go with it which was £1.75.

The sonar ones are quite easy to swap over to right hand drive (not as easy as the inpro's) but I had mine in bits to paint the surrounds satin black.

i have a set of 2 inch dishes that need doing, im taking mine to a guy in chester called Glencross restorations, who was recomended by a mate of mine, its working out cheaper for him to do it than getting all the bits i need to do it myself, and i have seen the standard of his work and its superb. i have already sand blasted, jenolited, zinc primered and painted all the bolts and stripped the centres, just need to paint the centres flat grey, get the dishes back and put them all back together.

Worst thing, fitting a toothed belt system, loved the sound of it, but never noticed any performance improvements ( confirmed by rolling road results) and it destroyed 3 chargers and a piston which was nice :-( Took it to rac windscreens, ended up needing a new bonnet and a full respray, still causing problems years later as the appallingly bad job they had done of fitting the new screen has caused it to rust under the seal. Didnt tie the top of a huge bag of polystyrene balls properly and chucked it on the back seats, unfortunately it opened up while doing 80 down the m56 with the window open, VERY messy.

yeah should be there, been for the last few years.

Is the part number different for the right hand bolster on the passenger seat and drivers seat? I just used a right hand side passenger seat bolster to replace the right hand drivers seat bolster as they are identical, pretty much any second hand passenger side right hand bolster should be in near perfect condition as they don't suffer from people dragging their arses over them.

As far as I know, if it was the other persons fault, even if the damage is more than the car is worth you can still demand that it is repaired as long as it structurally sound, it was a similar quote when mine was rear ended very lightly (just snapped a plastic bumper bracket off and a penny sized dent in the rear panel) and they said they would give me book value for the car, but I refused and said I wanted it repaired and they did, I also dealt directly with the other persons insurance as I didnt want to be out of pocket by paying my excess and waiting to get it back.

What are you trying to imply? We are trying to have a serious discussion about general knob cleanliness and hygiene, the last thing anyone want is to catch something from touching a dirty knob, get your mind out of the gutter please.

I was contemplating peeling the leathery bit off the top of my knob so I could make sure it was completely clean underneath, i had also heard it's not a good idea to use harsh chemicals to clean it, not really sure what the best thing to use would be?

Yeah the gaitor is from the Leon, just need to unscrew the plastic frame on the corrado gear surround, stretch the Leon one over it and put it back together. Yeah the build up of dirt around the top of my knob is a real problem, it hasn't been cleaned for so long it's started to go a bit crusty, I think it's because I am always rubbing it.

here you go, its from a 2001 SEAT Leon if i remember correctly. Didnt realise how dirty it was, will have to give my knob a proper clean and polish [ATTACH=CONFIG]45596[/ATTACH]

Will get a pic up later, on my way back from Scotland at the moment.

The SEAT Leon gear knob and gaitor also fits perfectly, it's a bit fatter has the right shift pattern on the top and it's trimmed in perforated leather, it's also a bit shorter and threaded further up inside so it sits lower effectively shortening the shift.

I was speaking to one of the organisers, and he said a fair few of them had the wheels fitted after they arrived or where lowered once they where parked up as they had no chance of moving at all let alone being driven on the road. The green caddy on rotiforms had to be shuffled forwards and backwards about 20 times as it only had about 5 degrees of steering lock :lol: and that was without having an engine fitted.

If you have an aftermarket stereo, you need to make sure the power supply to the antenna is connected (black wire along side the antenna cable) to the power antenna or amp remote output (usually blue and White wire). If the antenna power supply wire is not connected the signal will be as if the antenna is not connected.

Yeah they do the vat free days a couple of times a year, not 100% sure they still do them since the 20% vat increase came in though, it's not really vat free they just discount the same amount, you may need to be on your local branches mailing list to get the invite or know someone who is.

I have used the Clarke one you posted the link up for, and it was good but it did struggle with things like calliper carrier bolts and hub bolts, personally I would pay a little more and get this one http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cir450-24v-high-torque-cordless-impact/path/impact-wrenches-and-drivers It undid the hub bolts and the rusted up flywheel bolt on a split screen camper with ease after a snapon air ratchet had failed to do it, seemed quite well made too. It's worth waiting for one of their bank holiday VAT free days though.