coolrado

So I'm not the only one then! :clap: :dorky:No :lol: My brother once tried it on his Jago jeep, but had to remove it as the droplets of water would just jiggle around in the middle of the screen as it was completely vertical so the wind just moved it around :lol:

Rain-x used to do a bottle that was split down the middle, one half was the cleaning solution, the other was the rain repellent, which did seem to work better than using normal glass cleaner and then rain-x, haven't seen it like that for a few years though. I still find the Star Trek warp effect it creates a little distracting though :lol:

take the headlight out, remove the caps and bulbs from the back of it and put it lens down on a towel on top of a radiator, had to do the same to get my dads chinquecento through its MOT.

Last night's episode was probably one of the best i have seen for a while, absolutely hilarious, I don't envy the poor sod who has to remove all the skid marks from that shopping mall though :lol:

I just don't think they should start mass marketing electric vehicles until the energy used to supply them is from a sustainable or renewable source, just seems like a pointless excercise at the moment. Maybe if your garage roof was covered in solar panels like Jay Leno's it would be worth it.

corrected it for you :)

Right, thats it, I'm going to buy a couple of fuel tankers and fill them up now while it relatively cheap, then I'm gonna buy a 1973 Ford Falcon Coupe and stuff a supercharged V8 in it, and maybe get a gyrocopter, I just hope tina turner doesn't turn up and start singing :lol:

Have a search for "uprated headlight looms", it's the same with all corrado's and there are countless posts on the subject.

IMO, yes very easy, I'm a bit annoyed with myself that I didn't do it myself the first time, but then again it did take me a while to find all the information and get the bits ordered so i can easily understand why they cost so much to get done professionally, and you can't really complain with the warranty that people like g-werks offer. I had to be able to use the car and It took me a while to get hold of all the ribbed pulleys, but i finally found the crank pulley on a golf in the local scrappy.

:lol: ..and it will hurt more in the cold. Use a large pole for leverage so you can use less pullng force and thus be less likely to smash ya knuckles. All done now, It was so cold that when I did slip a couple of times I couldn't even feel it :lol: starting to ache a bit now though. I find the standard wheel brace fits perfectly over the handle on the halfords 3/8th ratchet. Just took it for a spin and have to say I didn't notice any loss of power or response with the ribbed belt, so I think any improvement that I felt with the toothed belt was phycological :?

the only time I ever had noticeable belt slip was after driving through big puddles, but that was only until the pulleys dryed off, or the odd time if I was thrashing the stereo with other electrical stuff on and it would slip on the alternator a bit. I suppose I will miss the noise, but I certainly wont miss being stranded at the side of the road or having to pay £25 for a replacement belt every couple of months. Apart from the toothed belt issues it has been a very relliable car and it really gets me down when it's off the road so I dont want to start loosing interest in it for the sake of something like this. I do have faith in the charger now because I rebuilt it myself, so I know that good quality seals and bearings have been used, and now I know how simple it is to re-build I will just do it twice as often just to be on the safe side, I'm also looking into having the wear faces in the charger teflon coated. Ah well, you live and learn, I'm just off out to replace the crank pulley and see how many knuckles I can remove when the bolts crack loose :bad-words: :censored:

well my mind is well and truely made up, had another funny noise on the way home from work and the toothed belt has stripped some teeth again :bad-words: at least using a sprung tensioner has meant the belt didn't slip and cause any damage. stripped belt.JPG[/attachment:27m7y5fa] this is an uprated belt, and has lasted much better than the Gates HTD belt, but the teeth are litterally being torn away. I now have all the ribbed pulleys to change it back to standard so tomorrow the toothed pulleys are being binned.

The screen wash should be fine but if the coolant is the normal ethelene glycol type stuff it's not suitable for most VW engines, most VW's use an organic acid type coolant, the ethelene glycol stuff causes the pipes and plastic flanges to go brittle. Although if it's free who cares :lol:

Yeah, if they are not correct when you get them you will need to wind them in or out a bit, but i just put mine along side the manual adjusters and set them the same as them.

looks like at least the last part of the part number is the same as the ones I erm ....borrowed from the works 2001 vw caddy^^^, so they are probably the same, just adjusted differently to suit different lights, they should all have adjustable shafts that just wind in and out, the motor only moves them a few mm but they can be adjusted much more to fit different lights.

Yeah, off side was definately more worn, but i put that down to the bloody speed ramps at the bottom of our road, they are very badly positioned so i almost always have to go over them with the off side wheels. It went straight through the MOT yesterday without any advisories, although they couldn't get it on the rollers for the brake test as it was too low, so he had to use a g-meter stuck to the windscreen :lol:

As I mentioned above, it can be done with standard suspension you just need to use spring compressors to pull the top of the suspension down a bit, you may also need to push the damper rod down a bit as they extend uner their own pressure, I did it twice on mine before i had the coilovers.

it's really simple to fit the motors, first twist the base of the manual adjuster anti clockwise ( this may be very stiff ) this should then pull out a bit revealing the end of the adjuster. now remove the cap on the back of the light and pull the reflector towards you which should make it easier to get at the clip, then you will need to unclip the white plastic clip that holds the ball end of the adjuster, you may need to make a little hook to get behind the clip to remove it, its the bit the arrow is pointing to you need to lever away and then pull out ( should be obvious once you can see it ). climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfclip.JPG[/attachment:2m2e4yfu] before you fit the motor you may need to adjust the shaft to roughly the same length as the manual adjuster, and make sure both sides are the same ( the shaft should twist in and out ). then just fit the motor by pulling the reflector towards you so you can clip the end of the shaft in then insert the motor and twist it clockwise. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdflight motor.JPG[/attachment:2m2e4yfu] light.JPG[/attachment:2m2e4yfu]

I have it on mine, it was fitted when i bought it but the control stalk and vacuum feed had been removed, bought a new stalk off ebay and got it working, it automatically shuts off if you touch the brake, the clutch, if the revs rise quickly or when you touch the reset button. It's great for fuel economy on a long journey, and stops my knee locking up, which i have had since being knocked off a motorbike years ago.

to be honest you might as well save a couple of quid and get the halfords axle stands, they look identical to the clarke ones.

I had that exact set but took it back after a couple of weeks as the non return valve on the jack gave up, meaning the handle would rise back up on its own and the jack would start to fall, it also had a small leak from the main piston seal, and one of the axle stands was very badly welded, I didn't trust it enough to use it, those folding axle stands are just too flimsy and the car shifts about too much on them IMO. I prefer these type of axle stands, much stronger and easy to adjust. axle stands cant really go wrong with the machine mart stuff and I now have one of these 2 ton trolley jack

as far as i know there has never been factory fitted remote central locking or alarm on the corrado, all the alarms where dealer fit. you can get simple remote central locking interface boxes from maplin or pretty much any alarm supplier for about £30

would be cool (but still pointless) if you could have an indicator in one of the switch blanks showing the spoiler down and spoiler up so it changes as the spoiler rises.

I have had 120w bulbs (on the H3 high beams only) for 2 years and the reflectors are absolutely fine, theres no way I would use higher wattage bulbs on the dipped beams though, they would be far too bright for oncoming traffic.

I have seen a set of RC centre caps that had a small thread tapped into them, and used a small allen head grub screw to secure them, you could only get to the grub screw by removing the centre badge but the guy just had one of those little suction cups that you use for dent removal to pull the badge off with. Although they would probably just damage them more trying to get them off or vandalise it out of spite. I always remove the caps from my RM's if i park it somewhere a bit dodgy, and i fitted flush fit valves as i was sick of scrotes stealing the valve caps to put on their BMX's.