coolrado

not sure what the part number is for the new blue ones but if you give them the part number off the old one they should be able to find it. when i recently had problems with coolant loss from the header tank (turned out to be head gasket) i noticed they had the nice new blue caps on the shelf in halfrauds so i picked one up while i was there, i fitted it and it seemed fine until i removed it to top the coolant up and it left the black section with the pressure relief valve stuck in the top of the bottle, all of the clips that held it together had snapped off and it was a real pita to get back out, so definately avoid pattern part caps.

avoid heavy breaking while bedding in the new pads, i fitted new disks and pads on mine and then took the car for a bit of a thrash down some nice private roads up near anglesey and after some heavy breaking the brakes felt awful, i had managed to glaze the pads and craze the surface of the disks they have been squeaky ever since no matter how much copper grease i use, they where cheapo zimmerman disks though so not really that surprising.

is it for a fresh install or repairs to an existing system?

have you looked into the possibillity of a heating grant towards the cost of the replacement boiler? what has actually gone on the boiler? most plumbers reaction is replace it, as there is more money in it for them when most of the time its just a case of replacing a circuit board or valve.

have you tried using the drop links from a caddy van instead? the offset on the top of them is slightly bigger than the corrado ones so it should hold itself on.

the piston shouldnt rotate during operation, it only needs to rotate when winding back in to fit new pads, in nomal operation it has a ratchet mechanism that allows it to move out as the pad wears but not back again, the adhesive on the back of the pads is meant to stick to the piston as it stops squeeling.

when i have asked suppliers at a show if they have any more stock of something they have run out of they usually tell me to call them before the show to make sure they have it and they will reserve it for me, my mate has done this loads of times with bits for his camper. if its a company that does free delivery they are saving money by bringing it to the show so they should give you a show discount, but like has been mentioned it depends on the supplier.

make sure you get a genuine MOMO millenium as there have been a few copies that are meant to be a bit dodgy in a smash, from what i heard the outer rim would seperate from the spokes leaving the ends of the spokes exposed which could make a real mess of your arms :shock:

a new cable wont hurt but it could just need a bit of light oil down the cable guide, also check the rubber bush that the end of the cable goes through on the pedal end, as they have a tendancy to wear through and wont let you reach full throttle.

any chance you could find a part number on it? or does anyone have etka with this part listed?

i managed to find a pair of motorised headlight level adjusters and the potentiometer on a caddy van in the scrappy the other day so for a fiver i couldnt leave them there, the motors fit directly onto the standard hella units but was there ever a standard fit level control potentiometer for the corrado dash? if i cant find one i may just replace the dash illumination dimmer as it doesnt work very well with the LED's anyway.

if you do use seat covers make sure they have a very soft backing or maybe put a section of fleece fabric over the leather before you fit the covers, if it has a non slip backing and exposed stitching like most of them have it will probably make it worse, also keep the leather conditioned well and it should keep it soft but tough, try a farm stores type place and have a look at some of the saddle care products, i believe thats what walesy uses to keep his gimp mask nice and supple :wink:

its not normal to get top mount bearings with any suspension systems as far as i know. most people would fit uprated top mounts anyway so if they supplied a certain type of bearing it may not fit the uprated mounts, they are also a wearing part so if the suspension manufacturer did supply them they would constantly have people complaining that they had worn out withing the warranty period. so yes it is normal to use your old bits or buy new replacement bits.

if you hav'nt removed you boost return it is normal to have a small amount of oil in the charger and boost pipes as it gets recirculated from the breather, if you have loads of oil in the charger outlet and pipes, (as in dripping out) then you will have a blown out or worn out seal in the charger, usually the exhaust seal iirc.

i think the best way to deal with the common problems that the corrado has is to sort them out before they become an issue, i knew from discussions on here that the rear brakes where crap and prone to seizing so i changed them for mk4 brakes, i had read that the sunroof cable ends snapped so i replaced them before they broke, fortunately mine came with a brand new pair of door handles so i fitted them before the old ones broke, i knew there where problems with the heater matrix and heater control flaps so i fitted the system out of a SEAT leon the only exceptions to this have been the charger which failed soon after i bought the car as the vw dealer hadnt bothered to change the oil feed line, so not the cars fault and the front engine mount bracket, which i have to agree is a crap design, but its failure could well be due to the previous owners treatment of the car. people can hardly moan about the failures of these items if they knew that they were likely to occur. most of the time these failures are a result of lack of maintainance, mistreatment or modifications, if you clean and lubricate the door handles and adjust them properly they should keep functioning fine for years, the same goes for the sunroof mech. my mr2 in comparrison was the worst car i have owned, less miles on the clock but one failure after the other regardless of how much maintainance was carried out, i had to scrap it in the end due to the rear arches falling off and the head gasket blowing for the 3rd time, each time costing around £300 in parts alone, one time one of the pistons completely disintegrated which ended up costing around 500 quid in parts, you could only buy the panels from toyota so they cost a fortune and the 1.6 twin cam engine only managed 120bhp, and according to all the mr2 forums they where the most reliable, best handling, cheap to run, fun to drive cars on the road just shows people experiences vary wildy, im not blinkered in any way i just enjoy my corrado more than any other car i have owned or any car i have driven for the same sort of cash.

my previous cars where 1971 bond bug 1987 vauxhall ashtray 1989 mk1 toymota mr2 and then the corrado, i honestly think i will only ever own vw's from now on and i try to get to as many of the vw shows as i can, my mates cars include a charged vr corrado, 2 mk1 cabriolets, a mk3 vr, mk2 gti, 1962 split screen camper, jetta gti, and an audi UR quattro so all my mates are into vw's as well but i still dont think of myself as a "dubber", i just like the way vw's drive and i like the atmoshpere at most of the shows, i think to truely qualify as a dubber you need to have owned at least 1 aircooled vw and i would love to own a splitty one day but the price they go for i cant see that happening in my lifetime.

just checked and the 360 requires 203w and only uses the connections for the hard drive more detailed info here clicky 360 atx bodge

andy_vw, would your company be able to make a power supply to run the xbox 360 in a car? the 360 needs a 250w ATX power supply and i cant find an in car one that powerfull, biggest i have seen is about 200w

if you need the section under the battery and cant find any scrapped corrados where you are, there are two in a scrappy in wrexham that still have that section intact.

if your coolant level hasnt dropped and you cant find any leaks its most probably just moisture evapourating off the radiator when it gets warm. has it been raining where you are or have you recently washed the car?

best way to avoid the overspray on the tyres is to let the tyre down then poke sections of cornflake packet with a curve cut out into the gap, then re-inflate the tyre

i would check the temp switch first, its alot easier and cheaper to replace than a fan.

playing up in what way? if the fan doesnt come on when it should its more likely to be the temperature switch on the rad, try bridging out the connector for the temperature switch and if the fan runs ok you know its the switch.

whats wrong the fan? if its seized you may be able to free it up with some light oil

your've been watching far too much 'pimp my ride' :lol: nah, i tried it years before i had even heard of the bunch of bodge artists on chimp my ride, the problem i had was the camera i used was crap and didnt work at night, but you can get cameras dirt cheap now with auto iris and infra red illumination which are great as a reversing camera at night.