coolrado

could also be a thrust bearing sticking on the sleeve that it slides over. is the 2.0 16v a cable or hydraulic clutch? if hydraulic have you checked for fluid leaks and if cable have you checked for any damage or fraying of the cable?

nope sorry he had the plate transfered from an older car so im not sure what age it was.

its basically a mk4 polo dash but solid cheap feeling plastic instead of the slightly padded version in the polo, the one my friend had was all green illumination like the polo.

i had a similar problem with the gap above the stereo when i relocated mine, i filled the gap by getting another heater control panel and carefully removed the thin plastic strip from the top of it and plastic welded it to the bottom of my heater panel, looks original then.

when i first had mine, i tried setting the timing and it was doing what you describe, jumping around all over the place, it was sorted after fitting a new set of decent spark plugs(instead of those crappy bosch 4 electrode ones), fixing a break in the lambda wiring and fitting a new blue temp sender, i'm not sure which of those sorted it but it was totally smooth afterwards, and still is with a 68mm pulley and SNS chip.

is it doing it constantly or just over bumps?

The H3's dont have a plastic connector on them so that is probably why they have been ok for me.

Its not actually DAB radio, as far as i know it uses the DVB-T carrier, they are the same radio stations you get on your home digibox, and as far as i know the audio is more compressed than DAB radio. Im sure Henny could explain it better as i think he works in this field. :scratch:

I have been running standard H4's with 130W halfords rally H3's for the high beam on an upraded loom for 6 months now and the headlights and wiring loom have coped absolutely fine so far, no melted reflectors and no melted connectors even after an 8 hour long drive mostly at night on empty country roads where the lights where on high beam most of the time, but then the H4's have a reflector in front of them that would probably focus the heat on to the rear reflector more so that may cause a problem. I had a word with a guy from a company that was selling Hi/Lo HID kits at one of the shows and he suggested that the reflector in front of the normal bulb in the housing should be removed when using some HID kits as it will mess the pattern up.

yep i have one in the c, the only problems i have with it are the crappy magmount antenna that comes with it, firstly it looks crap and will scratch your paint, you will need a booster (i use a battery powered one from maplin) and it will be pretty useless on the move, although on the motorway the digital radio reception seemed ok, you can get a combined bosch tv and fm antenna that looks almost the same as the original but has 2 whips on it but that is very expensive even if you can find one. or you can use a diversity antenna, these are usually comprised of 2 or 4 elements that you stick to the inside of the rear quarter glass. apart from that the picture is as good as can be expected through composite and the sound seems pretty good, it also has tetris and brickout games built into it.

im not sure what the vr stat housing is like but i would certainly get a genuine one, any of the patern part coolant flanges or stat housings i have had from ecp have been garbage and have deformed and leaked after about a week. the blue temp sender from ecp also died after 6 months.

that caddy belongs to one of the guys on the audio counter in halfords who is a mate of mine, if you ask to speak to Mark on the audio counter ask him if you can have a look at his project folder which he keeps under the counter, he has documented all of the rebuld and its quite amazing what he has done to it, he is also the guy who owns the powder blue mk1 golf g60 on mims that was on the front of PVW a few years ago, i am sewing the rear cargo net for the caddy at the moment.

all you should need to do is dismantle the clocks, give the contacts on the back of the lcd screen a bit of a wipe with a cotton bud and some clean or distilled water (i used cd lense cleaner) dry it off and re-assemble, and it will be fine, its a common problem on mk2 and rado MFA displays.

The L shaped ally is curved to fit the inside of the lower lip of the splitter and is attached by pop rivots along the bottom edge so they cant be seen, i also re-painted the splitter using some bumper and trim spray from a local motor factors which also covers up the rivots.

on my mr2 there where 2 torque settings listed in the manual for the plugs, one for new and one for re used, the torque setting was 3ftlb's more for the re used plugs so it obviously makes a difference.

what would be handy is a pair of braces that could be attached to the inside of the the corners of the splitter to prevent the cracking that seems to effect all the 90mm splitters, even before mine was lowered and i hadnt hit any thing with it, it still cracked, i recently removed my splitter and fitted a strip of L shaped aluminium all the way along it and braced both corners and it has been fine even after running over a dead fox, it made a heck of a thud under the car and also cleaned the oil off the bottom of my sump but the splitter was fine (well apart from being covered in bits of dead fox).

yep definately dead battery, are you sure your alternator is ok?

had a full set on mine with the standard exhaust with a cat bypass and they lasted two weeks, they all stretched and snapped after doing a 200 mile trip, someone suggested my timing could have been out a bit but i had it checked and it was spot on. starting to think it could be the cat bypass is allowing the exhaust to get hotter than normal? i think i am going to change the exhaust and hangars to the bar type as they are much stronger and dont let the exhaust bounce around.

did you actually use a torque wrench though? was the engine warm when you fitted them? have the plugs been removed since you fitted them 8 months ago? you should allways re torque the plugs after a short while, i know it doesnt mention it in the manual but i have allways done it after driving the car for about 300 miles and there is usually a bit of movement in them. tightening up new plugs can be a bit deceiving sometimes as they use a crush washer, the first time it can seem like its taking ages to tighten up but if you remove it and re-tighten it it seems fine. there are other weaker points in the engine that should go before a plug gets blown out.

if you can find the antenna for the alarm module try moving the end of it away from the loom and car body.

i drive a 2001 caddy as a company vehicle and so far it has been very reliable, and i do 200 miles a day in it, its now on 108k and the only problems i have had with it have been the rear door handle which is a weak point (they corrode and break easily) and the spare wheel holder under the van which has broken (now keep the spare in the back) not bad considering it has the living daylights thrashed out of it every day. the one i drive now is just an SDI but the previous 2004 caddy i had was a TDI which was much quicker and will embarass a lot of boy racers off the lights, but still did pretty much the same MPG. avoid the 1.4 petrol version, the fuel economy is shockingly bad compared to the diesels and they are no quicker, they also have a problem with weak gearboxes according to a friend who services the vans for a local company. they are not very roomy in the back with the seperator fitted though, and it may give you a bit of a bad back after driving one for a couple of weeks until you get used to the seats which are not the most comfortable.

when you tried to start it did the dash warning lights go dim when you turned the key or was there any clicking? it does sound like just a flat car battery, how long had the car been sitting for? if it is a flat battery also check your boot light is turning off when the boot is closed.

you shouldnt be able to knock it through into the engine as it should sit up against a ridge, but just be carefull not to let any loose fragments get into the engine.

the core plug may have just gone a bit rusty and has started leaking through the rust hole, it depends on what type of core plug it is as to how you remove and re fit it, if its just a domed disk that looks like ( they are usually fitted by insering them into the hole with the middle of the dome facing out and then striking the middle of the dome so it expands the outer rim of the cap and holds itself in, they can usually be removed by denting them in with a drift or screwdriver just enough to pull the outer rim inwards. if its a domed cap with a skirt around the outside that looks like [ they usually have a sharp edge around the base of the skirt, they are fitted with the dome facing inwards towards the engine and use a socket or piece of bar just smaller than the inside of the core plug to tap it in with a hammer, the only way i have seen them being removed is to use a drill just smaller than the inside of the core plug so it just weakens the part of the core plug with the sharp skirt, you can then punch a small hole in the centre of the dome and screw a self tapper into it and pull it out, although if yours is allready leaking that badly you may not even need to drill it out. you could try going at it with a small drift to crumple the outer skirt inwards but you risk getting it stuck or damaging the bore of the hole.

what rim width, offset and tyre size are you running? you might be able to sort it with a slightly narrower tyre, but apart from that if you dont want to change the height or the wheels the arches might need to be reshaped a bit. also what part of the arch is it rubbing on?