coolrado

I think its mainly because it is a genuinely nice car to drive, i have driven plenty of different cars including a few luxury sports cars and nothing feels quite like the corrado, i'm not saying the corrado is a better car to drive than any other it just has a unique feel , the closest car i have driven to the feel of the corrado was the fiat coupe. also the community based around the corrado and the vw scene in general has a much friendlier relaxed feel than most other cars. A mate of mine who has a mk3 vr gets quite p*ssed off when we go somewhere in the corrado and will quite often drive past a bunch of kids and hear them shout "cool car mate" or people asking you questions about it in petrol stations and saying "i allways wanted one of those but couldnt afford one when they where new" my mates girlfiend allways say's to him "why dont people say that about your car?" :lol: there is certainly something about the shape of the corrado that i think appeals to the child in some people , i had a look at some of my old excersise books from primary school that where full of doodles and sketches of car's and they all seem to look very similar to the shape of the corrado, the flat nose with exagerated front bumper, the reasonably long low sloping bonnet and windscreen, and the reasonably flat boot, a bit like the original inspector gadget car in persuit mode :lol:

8) ta very much, I have to admit though the M$ wheel does seem to be developing a bit of slack, it appears the plastic bearing isnt up to the job so i may have to do the roller bearing upgrade that a few people have done. with all the assists off, the wheel is great for sensing when you are about to loose traction, especially with ABS off the steering starts to go all light just as the wheels start to lock up. its just a shame i cant fit the BBS RM's from the mk2 golf to the corrado.

just the winder handle or the mechanism? if its just the winder handle dont get wolfsburg badged ones as the corrado wasn't built there, i am sure i have seen some karmann ones at one of the shows before, or just go for oem, they are probably the same as the golf or maybe a passat.

the M$ wireless wheel is a must for this game, I traded a whole load of old ps2 games in on saturday (including GT4 :2gunfire: ) and got the wheel as i didnt fancy spending £80 :shock: on it, but after using it i can see why it costs that much, its brilliant the force feedback is fantastic even down to the steering going lighter as you accelerate and heavier as you brake in the rear wheel drive cars, and the torque steer in the front wheel drive cars its spot on. the wheel comes with a free copy of PGR3 which has been re-worked to include the force feedback but its pretty basic and just doesnt have the feel of the forza 2 demo. at first it was a bit difficult to get the hang of using the wheel instead of the pad, but after about an hour i was getting better lap times with the wheel, its much easier to modulate the brakes or make fine adjustments to the throttle and steering and its far better with all the assists off and manual gears because you can feel when the cars about to brake loose and hold it in the correct gear which saves loads of time on the corners. my new gamer tag is: autophilia

due to the age of the car it wont be decided by the emissions, so either £180 for 12 months or £99 for 6 months tax link

check the small print on that, as some bonus accelerator schemes only count as a full year with the same insurance company, so cannot be transfered as a full year to another insurance company.

what are the engine and running gear options for the corrado in forza 2? some of the body designs that the japanese are producing at the moment are incredible, just shows what 1000 layers and plenty of patience and skill can produce, there are some really good ones in the forza auction house at the moment. first time i played the demo i had the sound turned up quite loud and nearly crapped myself when i hit the barrier flat out in the mc12 the collision and engine sounds are great (especially the sagaris).

the MFA is the trip computer, oil temp, ect that you select with the button on the end of your wiper stalk, it wont be in the hidden mode though as you need to do a combination of things to get it into that mode and it resets to normal when you switch the ignition off anyway, the MFA cable connects to the rear of the clocks and if i remember properly is the thin green connector that is on a screened cable that leads from the steering column cowling. it is unikely that the welding has caused damage but i suppose it could happen, i have seen a couple of modern cars show fault codes after having welding done on them, but they have been ok once reset, unfortunately there is no way to connect to the corrado clocks as far as i know, there is a circular connection port on the front of the clocks under a plastic cap but i dont think it was ever used.

there are no connections that would cause that to happen if they where not connected, the only time the display should show all the segments like that (including all the indications around the numbers) is in segment test mode of the mfa in the hidden modes. was the MFA connector plugged back in? you could try dismantling the clocks and make sure all the contacts are clean and well seated. was any welding carried out on the car while it was at the garage?

like this linky there are plenty of alarms availiable with small enough fobs to fit inside the vw fob but clifford, toad and scorpion remotes seem to all be a bit on the large side.

nope im not sorry, next show i will be going to is deva dubs in shrewsbury on the 9th and 10th

i do also have the mech as well, the only problem with it is the bits at either end where the supports for the spoiler poke through are cracked where someone has over tightened them, the middle section with the motor on and tubes and cables are fine though, so all you would need to do is swap the ends over.

it really is worth changing all the flexi fuel hoses on any car of this age. i had the fuel smell in the cabin and engine bay last year but couldnt find any leaks at first, it turned out to be the main feed line that was squirting onto the exhaust manifold under acceleration, when i checked all the pipes they where all very badly cracked around the ends. i just replaced all of mine with some goodyear fuel hose from halfords. its also worth checking the two flexis either side of the fuel filter, if they are leaking the smell wont usually be that obvious when driving but you may notice it when you pull up and get out of the car. i really cant see the point in paying silly money for oem hoses just because they are pre shaped, none of the angles are tight enough to cause the pipe to crimp or catch ony anything and when my company van went into vw for a fuel hose to be replaced they just replaced it with a section of standard fuel hose.

if your motor is dead i have a spare you could have for nowt.

do you mean just the rear hub or the stub axle as well?

i used the internals from my microscan remote (same as autowatch but with boot release) and fitted them into the vw flip key housing, i then removed all of the tracks from the vw remote board and linked the connections from the buttons across to the microscan fob, as the microscan is only a single button to arm and disarm i just linked the lock and unlock buttons on the vw remote together so they both work as arm and disarm and then linked the boot release to the second button on the microscan remote which pops the boot by pressing it twice, its been working absolutely fine for 6 months now.

the spoiler may have just been disengaged, once you remove the plastic boot trim you should see a black plastic bone shaped handle in the middle of the mech, if this has been pulled out slightly it will disengage the motor.

Just because they look intact it doesnt mean they are, i have seen a few faults on cars that after hours and hours of wire tracing have turned out to be a dodgy fuse that looked ok at first, some fuses are one single piece of metal which have been pressed into shape, but some are made up of the two blade sections and a seperate piece for the fuse which are pressed or crimped together and those are the ones that can go OC without looking any different. it really is worth checking them with a meter.

it is a very cool ad (apart from the crappy music). the comments on that link make me laugh from people saying "what a waste of food" and "dont they know there are people starving in darfur" :cuckoo: oh yeah just what starving people need, CAKE with little or no nutritional value.

sounds like your head gasket has gone between number 3 and 4.

warm white spirit will take it off really easily, dont use washing up liguid though its full of salt and any residue in the panel seams will rot away at the metal, if you need to get rid of any residue get a good tfr.

i dont mean the driver as in speaker driver, i meant driver circuitry that produces the tone. the first one on that list needs an external driver circuit.

which ones are they?maplin piezo sounders some come with a driver built in some dont, but if they say they produce certain tones they should have the driver built in. are you sure maplin supplied the correct ones? the staff there arent allways the sharpest tools in the shed :lol:

what sounders are they (make and model)? if they are 12v that usually means they simply need 12v applied to them and they will have an in built tone generator. are you sure they are 12vdc or could they be 12vac, a lot of industrial control gear is 12v ac, although most well known industrial sounders will work on ac or dc. piezo crystals emit electrical charge when squeezed or struck as in the ignitors for gas hobs or electric spark cigarette lighters (the ones that click). but if you apply a charge to them they will expand, they are commonly used for cheap high frequency tweeters in crappy stereos or for the sounder on the backs of digital watches. sounders usually consist of a metalic disk coated with a thin layer of piezo ceramic with a conductive coating over its surface with an electrical connection to the metalic disk and another to the conductive coating on the piezo ceramic. you can actually get sound out of a barbeque lighter to prove it.

sounds like either a catastrophic head gasket failure or a burst hose, the coolant does smell pretty bad when it happens, a sort of sickly smell. if your oil level is normal, there are no signs of fire, and you have no coolant the only thing it can possibly be is steam. make sure you wash away all of the powder from the fire extinguishers though it wont do any of the moving parts any good.