coolrado

i would say leave it as is, theres no need for a car to have an attention seeking paint job when everyone looks at it anyway. your car is the reason my mates havent stopped going on at me about lowering mine since they saw it at ultimate, and its the reason i will be ordering a set of coilies from g-werks as soon as i get paid. at the most a subtle tint or very fine metal fleck to the laquer might work, not too loud but just eye catching.

hi daz, i do still want a set of the weitec coilies and the boost pipes as i discussed with you, i am just waiting on a cheque to arrive but i willl place the order as soon as it does. do you have any of the bbm boost pipe kits on the shelf? i will be working down your way on monday and i wouldnt mind checking them out.

what part of the dash has been damaged ? any pics?

if you allready have the Quik Detailer and Quick Clay you might as well just use stage 2 and 3 as the paint will be clean allready. stage 3 gives a superb finnish and it smells good too :lol: and a friend of mine has used it on a black car and the results where brilliant.

a few shots of rado's i have spotted :dorky: on my travels.

make sure the barrel is inserted the correct way around, as i think it just stays in one position if its wrong. just try the barrel in the handle before you re-assemble it, it should then be obvious why its not moving.

Bit of a Mardave fan, eh? Those cars were great beginners cars, they were cheap and so strong. It took alot to break them. Think the Traxxas was called something like the TX10R? Yeah, i used to get the same problem, before the idler gears would shread! Tamiya even bought out the Top Force which was an uprated version, better chassis, suspension, wheels etc, but used the same gearbox! I used to run a Trinity 15 triple with 1700mAh matched Sanyo cells in my RC10. Went like stink back then, but is probably nothing compared to what they run now![/quote:00b00] not really a mardave fan they where just cheap and strong so where great for thrashing around the farm i used to live on :lol: i picked most of them up for a few quid at car boot sales with my pocket money and then went to the local bearing dealer and replaced all the plastic and brass bushes with industrial grade ball races, which makes a hell of a difference 8) i only bought the schumacher a couple of months ago as it was only 40 quid in a stock clearence and i needed something to put the corrado shell on, i did have to glue the tyres onto the rims though as when i gave it some revs all 4 tyres just expanded and flew off the rims :lol:

currently got a schumacher mission 1/10 4wd carbon fibre with a silly pro mod motor waiting for the corrado shell to be finnished, should be ready for the stealth rolling road day :lol: also looking for some 5 spokes that look similar to the asev A's i did have a corrado shell for it before but the paint didnt last very long once it bounced of the kerb at full pelt :lol: in the past iv'e had 3 mardave meteors,a marauder, 2 cobras(still got 1 in the box un-built), 2 mini stocks, a traxxass buggy (cant remember the model) and various pro 10's

there is a guy on here that has that car. its henny isnt it ? http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/profile.ph ... file&u=414 who has been very quiet recently :scratch:

actually i cant remember now if its actually black or brown as i am at work and the car (and sensor) are at home :oops: was a late night last night :morning: all i know is its defimately the larger of the two on top of the oil filter housing and its the one closest to the engine block. i'm confused now :scratch:

right i just phoned ecp as there is a branch on my way home and they said they think the part i need is an oil pressure sender costing £22 quid which they need to order in specially? the one that has failed is the larger one on the top of the oil filter housing closest to the block with a black plastic top (about 24mm spanner to remove i think). from earlier posts on the forum there seems to be a lot of mention of the black sensor on the top of the oil filter housing failing and its also worth replacing the blue pressure switch on the charger oil feed on the side of the head. is it the top two of these? clicky

i think it registers after 2000rpm good for rust prevention yes, but bad for freshly waxed paint and polished rocker cover and alternator :lol: its still a pain though the oil its lost actually costs more than the sensor :cry: :brickwall:

there has been a small amount of oil dripping on my drive for a while now but after driving to dubfreeze and back on sunday i noticed a hot oily smell every time i stopped at a junction, i checked the oil level when i got home and it was only just registering on the dipstick :shock:, i then looked under the car and the whole underside including the downpipes and exhaust was coated with oil and oil had flicked up all over the back of the car and had even found its way onto the back brake disks. i assumed it was the o-ring on the back of the charger support bracket which i changed, which did look like it had been weeping a little, i topped the oil up and then drove down to a mates workshop to help him work on his splitty camper but when i got there i left the engine running and had a look underneath again and oil was pouring off the bottom of the sump i opened the bonnet and oil was actually squirting out of the top of the oil pressure switch :mad: as a get me home measure we removed the pressure switch and put a blanking cap in the hole. (luckily had one cap with the correct thread) does the oil pressure warning light and beeper only sound after a certain rpm? as if i kept the revs low on the way home it was ok but as soon as i picked the rev's up to about 3k it started beeping (very anoying beep it is too) and only re-set when i flicked the ignition off/on. is this the switch that can be replaced by an oil pressure sender and switch module which can be used to feed a pressure guage? if so i might just get one of those if they are not too expensive as i was thinking of getting a pressure guage anyway.

my last car (mk1 mr2) with shot piston rings and no cat strangely had the exact same emissions as the brand new 3 cylinder daewoo matiz that i was parked next to when the emissions where tested........how odd :lol:

the problem is that the hot oily vapour that feeds back into the charger actually washes away the special grease that the internals of the charger are coated with, all you need to do is give the charger a quick spray with the lube once in a while (you can get the spray from g-werks) before my charger was re-built the internals where very mucky and black it is now very clean inside with a fine layer of the white lube even after several thousand miles.

has anyone got the dimensions of the special vw tool or even the bushes and the holes in the beam? if so i can get a tool cnc'd up for it.

bought one of the mocal kits in the recent g-werks group buy, the highest temp i had seen with the crappy old oil/water cooler was 123 degrees after some hard driving, the highest i have managed since fitting the oil cooler is 92 degrees c. absolutely no problems in traffic as the oil temp only really rises when the engine is doing some hard work it usually sits around 85 degrees c.

why post this twice? http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 0&start=15 i wasnt slagging off rac windscreens in general just the complete moron at the chester branch.

early bonnets are now obsolete anyway as i found out recently :mad:

i paid £9 for 5 litres and a tub of activator from my local partco counter, if the back of the road angel is tapered it should be ok if the foam is coated in resin as when the masking tape is removed it will give you a tiny amount of slack to neatly be able to remove and refit the unit. fibre glass is pretty easy to work with as long as you dont use too much activator as it can actually self combust :onfire:

give the inside of the cubby hole a few layers of masking tape making sure its well stuck down and the same around the road angel, and to be sure it doesnt get any resin on it you could also put it inside a condom :wink: then soak the foam in the resin (it will probably absorb a lot of resin) let it harden and that should make a nice solid mount.

i had a bit of a problem with intermittant clonking when pulling out of driveways or driving over small bumps, and also a vague feeling in the centre of the steering movement which meant i was constantly correcting the steering on the motorway, i had changed all of the components and i started to dread having to replace the steering rack, then i felt at the base of the steering column behind the pedals as i rocked the steering wheel side to side and i could instantly feel there was some slack where the base of the steering column connects to the rack, i nipped the pinch bolt up nice and tight and it instantly felt 100% better and its been absolutely fine since . i also had exactly the same problem with the company caddy van even though it doesnt use a splined shaft but a square shaft with plates either side with bolts through the square shaft after nipping those bolts up it got rid of the clunking feeling completely. a mate of mine also had a problem with his mk2 golf gti which sounds very similar to the "one day its fine the next day its rubbish" feeling which turned out to be the front and rear swing arm to chassis bolts werent torqued up fully and where causing the arms to shift under hard acceleration which altered the toe in and caused all sorts of handling issues they only required a little bit more tightening but it made a hell of a difference.

cool thanks im well chuffed now, looks like the bbs will go into retirement for a while then, well at least until i can afford some nice fat new rims for them.

will there be any problems running them then? they are also 7" wide but my bbs are only 6.1/2"

i have just checked again and the wheels have et25 etched in the centre? does this mean they will fit or not?