coolrado

i meant actually try and start the car while you are in 1st gear or reverse (it wont damage anything) but just make sure the path is clear and turn it off straight away, if it moves when you try that it will rule out dead drive shaft, cv joint or gearbox.

ok with the engine off will it go into gear ? if it will put it in first (if there is nothing in front of you, reverse if there is) then try starting the car but get ready to turn it off and get on the brakes, if it jumps forward or backward its a dead clutch release bearing or fingers if it doesnt its something else, it is most likely to be the clutch though. i drove 230 miles recently with no clutch when the thrust bearing on the van collapsed, just by starting it in gear and rev-matching to change gear.

if its a g60 its hydraulic not cable, has the pedal gone to the floor?

cool i thought you where just moving to a bigger greenhouse, but that looks very smart :salute: might actually take a drive down later in the year and get the charger serviced (can run it in on the way home)

fit a toothed belt conversion on the g60 it will stop any belt slip and sound loads better (a bit like the interceptor from mad max) :lol:

if your mfa is just showing parts of the numbers or showing them very dimly its just a matter of dismantling the clocks and cleaning the contacts that connect to the back of the lcd screen via the little rubbery conductive strip.

Yep i got the same answer when i phoned dane vw in chester yesterday, but i ordered it anyway as it was the same part number shown on the photo on the first page of this thread, £72 quid all in :cry: .

it has something to do with the roof as in a convertible you can lock valubles in the glovebox and leave the roof down, if the locks broken she would need to put the roof up instead.

could one of the mods please lock, looks like i have sorted it, it was a sticky closed throttle switch :mad: annoying how such a little item can cause such a big headache :wink:

had a new 1m ecu pipe a few months ago, i also bypassed the isv and just put the mini k&n back on it and its didnt sort the problem, i'm thinking maybe the closed throttle microswitch or a boost leak. it idles fine and its ok on full throttle its just when holding it at part throttle or trying to accelerate slightly it just kangaroo's like mad.

im not sure but havnt the bearing shells got oil way holes in them to allow lubrication? could they have been fitted the wrong way round? either way if it stopped with a squeak it quite likely something has siezed :cry:

on the way home this evening the car suddenly felt as if it lost power, if i kept the revs steady it seemed fine but if i tried to accelerate slightly it would just bog down then lurch forward and start bucking, if i put my foot flat to the floor it pulled fine, could this be isv venting boost or a boost leak? it really does kick and lurch quite badly. any ideas????

dunno if its my monitor but it looks more like tornado red to me. this is probably what my "money no object" corrado would look like.

not sure if this has been posted allready but i couldnt find it dubmodder corrado

is it the original paint on the bonnet? i know when the bonnet on my old mr2 was re-sprayed the cowboys used cellulose and it used to stain if water was left on it for any length of time, it was almost as if the paint was absorbing the moisture and you could actually feel the spots where it was stained. it stopped doing it after about 6 months though. try not to use t-cut though it contains quite a lot of amonia and will actually make the paint fade faster (it certainly did on my dads volvo) feed the paint with a good wax rather than rubbing layers of it off, cutting compound should only be used for severely faded paint, fresh resprays or removing scratches and swirls.

did anyone actually come up with a price for how much it would cost to buy, import, register ect?

The belt in question is the one that drives the supercharger, I'm not sure of the exact setup but i think its pretty much the same idea as a cambelt (it might even be the cambelt that drives the charger?) anyway, point is the belt is looped around a number of pullys, one of which is driven by the engine and makes the belt move around the other pullys which are turned by the friction of the belt so it needs to be able to move freely, think like a tank track or an escalator handrail. If it were glued in place you wouldnt be driving very far. A toothed belt conversion adds little teeth to the pully and the belt meaning the belt is less likly to lose friction with the pully. I must admit i had a chuckle at the glue suggestion ;) i think he meant using an adative which are availiable which you spray on drive belts to reduce slip temporarilly, a bit like the stuff they spray on the rollers at the rolling road to reduce slip. the toothed belt kit also reduces the stress on the charger and water pump bearings as the toothed belt doesnt need to be under a lot of tension.

not sure about cold start injector it was just a guess really, all the injectors are connected together arent they? so they must have been getting a signal to hold them all open, does the car run ok after you have purged the fuel out of it?

the fuel pump runs on to circulate and cool the fuel down to prevent vapour lock when re-starting, could your cold start injector be stuck open so its letting fuel through and filling up the inlet?

dont you mean the weights move out (under centrifugal force) at high RPM giving you more momentum, and move in at low RPM to make it easier to spin the flywheel up?

here you go more information about the resistor mod http://www.fmft.net/archives/001577.html

ah the power resistor of ultimate justice. :lol:

the same is used for pretty much all car makes, the term "phase" might be used in the us instead though.

there is usually a pretty good electrical conection through the hinges and lock pins but i think the earth strap is there just to be sure. cant say i noticed any difference when my strap snapped.

yeah you can but as the car is going to be doing loads of miles soon i went for the lower maintainance option :lol: highlighting the vw logo was simple i just poured enamel paint into the recessed part and it just self leveled.