coolrado

got my BBM boost pipes from G-Werks today and they seem like a very well made piece of kit, shame they are let down by the rest of the grubby engine bay.

more likely to be a poor power supply, especially if it isnt on long enough too heat up. the standard wiring to the head unit can drop the voltage down to about 10v so its just like the crappy headlight loom, if you have'nt run a seperate feed to the headunit its definately worth it, take a fused feed from the battery and a good chunky earth from a good clean earth point as close to the headunit as possible.

yeah thats Boris who is a Bouvier des Flandres crossed with a rottweiler, and he is an 11stone wimp and wouldnt leave me alone when i was taking the photos. nah there not press studs they are stupidly strong magnets, they are just to stop the rear edge lifting at speed. my mum is an upholsterer so i just used her industrial sewing machine (which uses a clutch instead of a variable speed so its a bit scary) its made from heavy duty vinyl on the top triple stitched to a layer of synthetic soft material underneath so it wont scratch the bonnet, i have changed it a bit since i took the photo's, the magnets are now stitched into the lining so they cant be seen, there is now a carbon fibre rod on the rear edge to stiffen it, and i replaced the strong elastic strap that goes around the bonnet with an adjustable strap so i could tension it better as the elastic went too slack with the engine heat. it copes to 100 without flapping so it should be ok. i am pretty good with a sewing machine and have re-covered a couple of sets of car seats before, including re-trimming my old mr2 in leather, i sold the seats from that for 150 quid when i scrapped it.

as football was the last thing i wanted to be watching today i decided to make a bra instead.

its really worth just leaving bodyshops to it even if they do take longer than they first thought, they usually get all sorts of little repair jobs and touch ups coming in and if insurance work comes in it usually takes priority as they need to keep the insurace companies happy to make a living. one of the doors on mine had to be re-done as it had been touched up with poor quality cellulose paint at some point, and when he painted that part it sort of went very orange peely after about half an hour and ended up looking like venessa feltz's arse, so it had to be taken back to bare metal. so unless you want your car to look like vanessa feltz's arse you might as well leave them to it. :lol:

if they are the auto guage dials dont they have two inputs for the lights so they are bright and easier to read during the day and then dimmer when you switch the lights on?

that frost kit does actually look better value than the machine mart kit its got much more in the kit, its just i bought the machine mart one while i was there getting something else.

I can imagine the Fiat brochure saying exactly that :-) All this "Fix It Another Day" and "Fix Or Repair Daily" is a bunch of dung. There are always independants, forums and online resources to make ownership of these cars easier and more affordable. It's no different to the VR and it's chains and premature bore wear.... All cars have their problems as they're not produced with DIY tinkerers in mind. nah i only used the (Fix It Again Tomorrow) as thats what F.I.A.T stands for :lol: a bit like F.O.R.D. (found on road dead), L.O.T.U.S (lots of trouble usually serious) and T.V.R (tape, velcro and rivets) :lol: to be honest its not really the build quality its just the general feeling you get when driving an uno, cinquecento or punto, they feel VERY tinny and quite scary when an artic overtakes you, the coupe just felt more solid and chunky.

the dremmel bits are ok for porting or polishing in tight spaces or the grooves in the cover but you would proabably be better off getting a buffer wheel for a big drill or a bench buffer, doing the whole cover with the tiny little dremmel bits will take for ever and you would proabably go through a lot of the bits, you can buy a polishing kit from machine mart for about £20 quid which comes with a couple of different polishing mops for a drill or bench grinder and some polishing wax which will take you less than half the time.

a mate of mine's girlfriend recently bought a 20vt coupe having had boring 1.2 punto's and clio's for years, it really surprised me, it was actually very nice to drive and certainly feels quite a lot quicker than a g60 to drive (probably due to the way the turbo kicks in quite savagely) and the diff really make a difference. but i didnt think the handling was quite as good as the corrado, it felt a bit soggy and front end heavy on tight corners but the diff was great when pulling out of corners. her coupe is ink black with poo brown leather but it is very comfortable, the only things that would put me off getting one is the fiat (Fix It Again Tomorrow) reputation and the style of them, i'm not sure i like them enough to buy one but from having a good look around it and sorting a few little niggles on it it actually seems very well put together (for a fiat). edit: cambelt change cost her £350 at a local specialist and had the clutch done at the same time for £200 on top of that all in.

the metal top plate should turn when you turn the steering as its on a bearing, but if the rubber bit underneath the metal top plate twists then the top mount bearings will be siezed.

if your going for uprated or fast road pads get some decent disks to match, especially if you abuse your brakes quite a lot, i used some green stuff pads with zimmereman disks and the disk started to craze on the surface and squeel and hum all the time, they also seem to warp very easilly and i have heard that the cross drilled zimmermans tend to crack around the holes. genuine vag disks are meant to be pretty good or the brembo max disks from gsf for £34.50

erm no, the bbm kit is to replace all of the plastic boost pipes and comes with all the silicone connectors and jubilee's, but it doesnt come with a blow off valve (which are utterly pointless on a g60). you get all the bits in the picture (except the dump valve) the ones you show there are just dump valve take off pipes for a turbo car, i think?

they are to locate the roof rack, if you push the rubber trim where the arrows are you will notice its hollow behind. edit: doh!!! beat me to it^^^

did you sign the pre job check sheet? if not surely it is utterly worthless, among all the other things they cocked up on mine they also broke the scuttle panel cover which is strange as i have removed and re-fitted it about 6 times before they managed to snap it in half. i wont bother posting my windsceen experience up again as its all sorted out now but took months of hassle to put right.

had the same problem for ages and it turned out to be the damper springs in the clutch had collapsed.

get a bbm boost hose kit like mine, got it all built in.... got a set on order from g-werks at the moment 8)

the round sub box in mine is secured using the bolt that normally holds the spare wheel in place, i just put the box in first, bolted it down then screwed the actual sub speaker into the box, so i dont think its should come loose too easily.

copied from one of my previous posts........... there is also the theory that the hot oily vapour that gets fed back to the charger washes away the ptfe grease coating that is applied to the internals of the charger, hot air is a bad idea anyway as it reduces the efficiency of the charger. I found before i removed the return pipe that after a good thrashing the charger would be hot to the touch and after i removed the return it ran quite cool, it didnt really give an increase in power but it did seem to reduce the loss of power which occured when the charger got a bit toasty. there is allways a nice layer of the ptfe lube on the inside of my charger now but before i had it re-built at g-werks and removed the return i took it apart myself and all there was inside was a very thin patchy layer of mucky black oil which looked like it had actually built up around the apex strips rather than lubricated them. personally i wouldnt believe a word jabbasport say after seeing one of their chargers that was supposedly a stage 4, and even had s4 engraved into the casing, but had absolutely no porting work whatsoever and had to be re-built again after 2k as one of the seals had been fitted on an angle causing it to fail and leak like a sieve.

does he mean blown as in turbo'd or blown as in kaboom!!!????

i think it replaces the plastic housing with the mesh top under the scuttle cover, all you need to do is slide a couple of clips across and it comes off, the one i got of the leon nearly fits but is a little too tall.

cool that looks ideal, i didnt realise jetex did that sort of thing :thumb right:

they have a whole new air con section including re-fills to top up the gas and lube in the air con system, however euro car parts may be cheaper for the anti bacterial grenades.

halfords now sell them, they only really work if you have a recirculate function though , mine has as the system is out of a more modern SEAT leon. you can usually tell if it needs doing when there is a kind of musty damp smell in the car, a mate of mine just used one in his passat and the car smells nice and fresh now.

yeah thats whats i thought, so have all the rado,s with aircon especially the g60's with dealer fit air con got pollen filters? i know that your meant to set one of those anti bacterial grenades off in your car once a year with the fans on re-circulate to kill any nasties that might be growing in the system, i just didnt know if the pollen filter was just for pollen and dust or bacteria as well?