Skimask

Deag, 16V's do have a delay :)

Or you could ask Brian or Jim Curley at Star a call and see if he knows its history. The chances are he will have worked on it at sometime. The first time I took my car to him he was surpised that he didn't recognise it :) Have it!1 It was in last weeks Adtrader Tel. No.01592 745835

Nice tip Kev, didn't know that one :)

Or here! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 39683&rd=1 It does say post 92 and not VR6.

It would help if you gave the year and model of car you have. I think the brake master cylinder does indeed have 4 outputs. My 16V only used 2 (IIRC) and the unused 2, I put bleed nipples in, just to blank them off. but then again my car doesn't have ABS!! Maybe some of the other forum members can put you right!

Nice line-up - nice weather as well 8)

20V - Cheers mate. I was running 55PSI - kinda explains why its a bit 'heavy' :?

20V lovely job mate!! A quick question - what pressure are you spraying at??

Don't the ABS brakes need to have the ignition switched on when bleeding? (and the ABS motor activated) If not the valves inside the ABS unit may be closed and stop the fluid coming out.

Try this - its a Microsoft Data Image (MDI) file. Its compressed with Winzip.

Hi Coullstar, It does indeed look like a timing issue. Check the static timing first and see if it has jumped a tooth. Failing that, check the distributer. My 16V was running rough, and reset the timing, only for it to do it again, then the engine petered out. On checking it had gone 3 teeth out. Turns out the Crankshaft pulley was knackered. Caused me a lot of grief with a new pulley and crankshaft bolt!

All the 16v torque settings are here -see the attachment. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17312

Try this its an MDI (Microsoft Data Imaging) file, compressed with WinZip.

I have this automotive data CD and it has these fault codes for a G60, don't know if they are any use, or accurate. The file is zipped but it is an MDI file (Microsoft Document Imaging) - It is quite large around 318K. It may be of use to someone!

Jim, Does the car idle properly, or cut out if you let your foot off the accelarator?

The VW green fluid is apparently synthetic and not mineral based like most other fluids. so one of the steelers mechs told me?? I thought brake fluid and power steering are alcohol based - that's why they ignite very easily.

Have a check where under the OSR wheel like Stevemac suggests. check the condition of the pump, fuel lines and pressure accumulator (cylindrical part with inlet and outlet on end). My one was pretty rusty, and had to replace a fuel pipe from the pump to accumulator (£25 from VW). Be prepared for about a litre of fuel spilling out of the pump! The filter is connected to the pipes at either end with banjo bolts and can be difficult to remove, but they'll come off. One of the more difficult jobs is getting the filter mounting bracket on again, its quite fiddly!

Replace the lot! Stub axle, disk, bearings, caliper. My mate had one just like your in (albeit was a Fiesta) stub axle riding on the wheel. I've never seen anything like it!!! Chances are the stub is wrecked, which will trash any new bearing you fit and there'll probably still be play in it. With catastrophic failure like that, you don't want to take any chances.

I bought the Halfords horns, they are a straight replacement. I can't remember having a problem with the existing wiring though?? Maybe I had swapped the terminals over from the old horns. IIRC, It didn't take long at all!!

Whitee, There are a number of screws inside the wheel liner, usually easy to remove. I've just bought the clips for reattaching the liner to the wheel arch. the clips are good, they stop the screws scratching the paint when tightening! As stated in previous posts, probably the most difficult job is getting the wing seperated from the body panel at the door. The sealant is mighty strong, I used an old joiners chisel to part the panels - from inside the wheel arch. Don't batter away at one section -ease it off a bit at a time down the section- gently, gently. You may need some paint to touch up the scars. Its not visible from the outside so any paint will do. I have a small compressor, and had primed and painted the inside of the wing before fitting, and blasted the inside with Waxoyl after fitting. The only problems I had was removing the bumper, one of the bolts snapped, I'm still in the process of fixing that one! Good luck!

Hi Whitee, The bolts come offw ith a 10mm socket and spanner, you may have to remove the bumper to get these 2 bolts off. I marked the position of the old wing before removal (See Pic) you can buy sealant from professional paint shops, there is an adhesive sealant, but better with the normal stuff. I heated a piece of windscreen washer tubing and attached to the nozzle - to get into the joints. You will have to remove the front bumper to get into 2 bolts (see pic) The pics have all come out in the wrong order though!!

Naah, that's the bag of loot, just after robbing the bank - its the getaway car - went very slow over the speedbumps :)

Potatonet, I've used a tyre lever in the past to lock up the flywheel, whilst my mate removed the bolts. Or get a shop to make up a tool. See Pic1!

Yes, it did whine, especially if moved away from the straight ahead position. Dr Mat, I think I would've noticed if it wasn't working, have you tried yours without power steering?

My steering pump was quite noisy, been like that for a while. I saw a couple of posts advising to use only geniune VAG fluid. £6 for a bottle, and it works a treat!!! the pump is now so quiet :lol: :lol: Remove one of the hoses next to the pump, drain off the old stuff. Replace the hose, make sure its tight - and refill. Work your steering lock to lock, leave them straight ahead and fire the engine up.