RS VR6

Kept lowering till I found my happy spot.

Clean your grounds, they are probably all corroded. You'd be surprised how much that helps.

Up to 89, Momo PN 8010 90 and up, Momo PN 8014

Steel braided lines are one of the best things you can do for your car. The pedal feels much more firmer and brakes bite much harder now.

16 and 17

I not running cams...yet. I'll be installing a pair of DSR 256 FI cams in the very near future.

I have the VGi with a VF charger. Its a difference I felt right away. The car used to pull at 4k...with the VGi...the car picks up at 3k. At least for me...there was no reprogramming of the chip requred. If you can pick one up used for a good price, then its worth it. The flapper cannot be "bolted" open...or else you defeat the purpose of running the VGi. I asked Ron at Denon about the flapper coming loose, and he said that it only happened once in all the years he's been selling Schrick in the U.S.. The reason it did was the guy didn't tighten the bolts when he put the flapper back on.

The NXT works really well...but it leaves a white residue in chips in the paint.

Here is how my grill sits. I have a screw tapped into the middle tab, double sided tape under the eyebrows, and some silicone on the lower tabs. Took the car to 130, and no problems.

Short vid of my exhaust. http://www.hostdub.com/albums/bulldog2G ... I_1796.avi http://www.hostdub.com/albums/bulldog2G ... I_1795.avi

200 degress more and your pistons would melt. 1600 is max safe temp for the EGT before melting your pistons. If the temp is too high..it usually means your running lean. Where do you get you info from? A free-er flowing exhaust is supposed to lower your EGT, not raise it.

Funny...I had a Supersprint too...they are heavy, but constructed very well. Had a Techtonics too...no problems there. They have a 2.25 and a 2.5 for both Corrado models. I highly doubt it broke because it couldn't "handle" the heat...lol...did it melt the welds? People are using these exhausts on 300+ HP VRt's...I don't think your G60 can generate the heat to break the welds.

lol...its been slow...needed to be spiced up a bit. :drinking:

Lol...its because you can't answer. Supersprint and Scorpion do have a FULL cat back. Their mufflers are straight through. Techtonics makes a FULL 2.5 inch catback exhaust in stainless and aluminized, with a stainless straight through Borla muffler. What aftermarket company dosen't have a straight through resonator? Why would aluminized piping pop? Good luck with your charger. :)

A built 3.1 will do about 190 wheel horsepower. A stock engine with a 6psi Z charger will do about 240 wheel horsepower. You should get about 260 ish to the front wheels. So that's about 300 at the brake.

No offense, but that is one of the lamest things I've heard. There are plenty of American companies that distribute European manufactured exhausts. You only listed Techtonics...they are not the only ones in the US that sells exhaust systems. Supersprint Remus Scorpion Sebring All european companies, all sold here in the states. AFAIK Magnex has no distributor in the states, but you can find an exhaust just as good, if not better here. Can you give me a good reason why you think the Techtonics with the Borla sucks? I had one on my VR6 with no problems. Its an excellent deal for the price. American companies: Neuspeed Eurosport Techtonics In which all make a good product.

shhhhh...industry secret. :nuts:

Just hope its a 8014...there is a 8010 for the pre 89 cars.

You will need a Momo hub adapter P/N 8014. Be aware that a 300mm wheel is very small. Lol...the top of the wheel is probably going to block your gauges

They are going to 250+usd now.

You may be able too - it has a part number... we can order US only spec stuff over here... I tried...

There is nothing special on replacing them...but if you've never replaced the two small hoses that come off the oil cooler...replace them. Its hell if they ever break on you. Removing the entire front end would allow the most access...everything is out of the way. You can also do it by loosening the front engine mount and jacking the engine up. I went with the front end removal method. As for the metal crack pipe...I think its uneccessary. I've been around alot of VR6's and I've never seen one fail. The factory one is easily a 100k mile part. I took mine out earlier this year and it was still in perfect condition, mind you its 10 years old. I would just get the factory plastic one and put the money you save towards something else that need maintenence. I have "heard" of the factory crack pipes failing in really cold climates where the weather constantly drops below freezing.

Turbo the 16v.

R32...it requires no mods.