RS VR6
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Everything posted by RS VR6
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With all the money your going to spend trying to get to 250bhp out of your VR...you might as well go forced induction or swap in a 24v VR6 motor. Its going to take more than a stroker crank and some boring to get you to 250. Your going to need all kinds of headwork. A proper flowing cylinder head is crucial to making power on a NA motor. You'll need pistons to bump the compression up too. Boring to 3.1 will also make the cyinder walls thinner too. Its going to cost you and arm and a leg to just get the 2.8 VR to 250bhp. Here is a thread on Vortex from Bildon about getting 250 wheel horse power out of a 12v VR. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2616140 Not as simple as bumping the displacement.
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Yep. They are also lighter than hydraulic lifters. From what I've read before...its a big job. They are louder not self adjusting like the hydraulic ones.
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Gotta switch to solid lifters! :lol:
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Displacement increase, Low boost turbo, supercharging, nitrous.
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Theres no way. 17x9 in the front will not fit...the adapters will be at least 20mm bringing the et out to 35. Same with the rears. If you are running coilovers, you'll need around a 22 et to clear the coilovers. 16x9, you may be able to get away with in the rear. Even with just lowering springs you may run into rubbing issues. Unless you want to spend a grip on bodywork...I'd pass on these wheels. The Corrado has some small wheel wells.
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215 40 17, if you want stretch. Maybe a 225 35 17 if you want more meat. You'll need to modify your rear arches to put the 9's on though. 215 40 17 on 9's
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Supercharged Stg2 VR6 Stalling & Overfuelling when cold
RS VR6 replied to antera309's topic in Engine Bay
The kit is pointless without the software. You might as well just get the C2 kit...I think it may be cheaper. Has anybody tried asking on VF Unplugged about the chip not being in the UK kits? You can also try sending a PM on Vortex straight to VF. I've been running the VF stage 2 since 2004. I've put roughly 40k on the kit...and I've had no SC related issues. The reliability has been rock solid. VF was having stalling issues a couple years ago, when you clutch in at a stop the car would stall. VF fixed the issue bt moving the MAF farther away from the inlet of the charger. I've ran the car with and without the MAF clamp...for me it made no difference. I do have it connected just because VF recommended it. -
Speaking of valves...here thay are. Clutch disk Pressure plate Throwout bearing...toasted!
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Top of the block cleaned up. Cleaning the pistons tommorrow. Head cleaned up
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Distilled dosen't leave behind the residue that tap water does.
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Actually the car runs fine. The coolant temps were nice and cool. The car never ran hot. The headgasket was not leaking and the coolant was a few months old. I was having the headgasket changed out along with the cam install. This is what was found after the head was pulled. I'm assuming that all the buildup in the water passages are from the previous owner not using distilled water when mixing with the coolant.
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Look at the gunk on the water passages!! Also the grooves in the timing chain tensioner. The bottom of the head...again the passages. See the nice trail of coolant coming out of the waterpump? Whats going to be replaced: Waterpump Headgasket New injector O-rings Chains/tensioners Valve seals Lifters Clutch with new main seal, flywheel bolts, throwout bearing Cams (Schrick 260/264) Various rubber seals: Crack pipe O-ring, T-stat seal Car only has 120k on it.
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Alot of the parts are OEM (Original Parts Manufacturer) manufacturers such as Bosch, Wahler...etc. If its OEM...it'll normall say next to the description. He also does supply some Brazilian made parts too, but in those cases he will offer a choice. With the Brazilian parts being cheaper than the German ones.
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If I were to pick...I'd go for the Work wheels. The quality is up to par with BBS. http://www.worksuperwheel.com/home.htm
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Timing chain kit http://www.fourseasontuning.com/?product=14 Sachs VR6 clutch http://www.fourseasontuning.com/?product=37 OEM German lifters http://www.fourseasontuning.com/?product=64 Will proably be cheaper even with the shipping. Seems like you guys are paying double what we are here in the states.
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How do they attatch the aftermarket wheels? Is there a technique or do they just glue them inside the arch? If so I can do that myself. The "modded" cars are going for quite a bit. For that price...I'd expect it to be a clean mod.
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I checked the wiring last night...everything seemed fine. Lol...just remembered...for the Z19 relay location, all I have to do is perform the output test on my Vag Com. If it clicks its still good.
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Lol...Borat got arrested for sending letter bombs? :drinking:
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Got this code ramdomly today. It showed up twice as I was in traffic. I got no real answer searching. Where is the O2 sensor heater relay(Z19)? Lambda Sensor, G39 - Signal to B+ - Signal to ground - No change in signal Possible Fault Conditions Open circuit to J220 Lambda sensor heater (Z19) faulty Where is it located? Fuse for Z19 blown G39 faulty, recently replaced Signal wire short to ground or shielding Ignition system failure Intake leak after mass air flow sensor (G70) Leak in exhaust system before catalysts Ground wire between pin 10 (which is pin 10?) on J220 and engine block open circuit
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You have a picture? I think it may be Abt ones. If your looking for those...I with you much luck. I had the Abt ones on my old mk3.
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Your ECU may be in "safe" mode. Are you boosting more than 5psi? For the boost gauge, you can tap into the vaccum line off the fuel pressure regulator.
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I used Lamin-X. :mrgreen: Here is how it looks with the French spec lights.
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The oil cooler is between the front of the engine and the radiator. Its an extremely tight space and impossible to get your hands in there. You either have to loosen the front engine mount and lift the engine or remove the front end. I changed mine when I replaced the water distribution pipe. I took my time and removed the entire front end. That gave me the most access and was easiest to work with. If you need to replace any of the cooling system parts...this would be a good time to do it since the front end would be off and you will have easy access to all the parts. Also clean and degrease any gunk'd parts. Check and clean off any rust that are on the ground wires. The later US cars have a secondary air injector (for emission purpose) in the way...so removing the entire front end was the best way to go. If your car dosen't have one...you may just be able to loosen/remove the front engine mount and lift the motor to gain access.