nick vr6

Just an idea.. but is fuse no16 (15amp) ok? Where in manchester are you as I don't live too far from there (lived in m/cr for 30 years though) Does have fuel in it doesn't it???

Hell yeah!! :nuts: The roads round Holmfirth are ace too 8) You gotta be joking about the Holmfirth roads mate, pot holes like craters on the moon :shock: There are some fun ones but the road surfaces around here are :censored: I've cracked 3 alloys since I've lived in Holmfirth :bad-words:

When you look at the bank of fuses, just above it is a fuse on its own with a couple of relays. Make sure this fuse hasn't blown or is loose, as it's for leccy windows and central locking. If you're lucky and it's only loose you've got a cheap easy repair for once :D If it's not that ....can't help I'm afraid

Are any of the relays loose? Or the fuse on its own above the row of fuses?

Check fuse no 16. 15 amp fuse.

Sorry Chris don't have part number or price, but it wasn't much. Sent you a cheque yesterday for ABS ECU, did you get it yet?

When I replaced my cat there was a gasket, blew like buggery when I put the old one back on :shock: Got a new one from VW for pennies, didn't make a noise after that

Can't you just remove the tray under the glove box to retrieve the wires and push them through the radio slot. You could even thread some string through the radio slot and when you find the speaker wires tie them to the string and pull out through the gap.

I'd put it on axle stands to avoid getting flat spots on the tyres

Hope my local council don't see that, they'll be fitting them everywhere, just like their mountainous speed humps.

Could be a loose connection somewhere. Make sure all connectors are pushed home properly. My alarm is fitted behind glove box, but can be accessed from passenger side footwell when undertray is removed. You're working upside down at this point, but ok if just checking plugs Good luck

Its not the beeps which are codes, its the LED flashing after the alarm has gone off and you get into the car. The quiet(ish) beeps when you arm the alarm are to let you know alarm will go off as something is wrong eg window open, something inside moving etc. When you arm the alarm, wait by car till alarm goes off, switch it off, get in, and see what code the LED flashes. That'll tell you what has triggered the alarm

You're right, I've got a manual :lol:

Here are the indicator codes shown after the alarm has been triggered, as indicated by the LED on your dash somewhere. Each * represents a flash of the LED followed by a pause, eg** ** ** means 2 flashes in quick succession with a short pause before the next 2 flashes. * * * =trigered by voltage drop ie interior light,cooling fan etc ** ** ** =movement inside car ie sensors *** *** *** =bonnet, boot or door opened **** **** **** =shock sensor ie it's been bumped or hit ***** ***** ***** =ignition been tried ie hot wiring ****** ****** ****** =battery disconnected, or supply to battery interupted Hope this helps

After the alarm has gone off the LED inside the car should quickly flash a number of times in succession, this tells you what has triggered it. Don't have hand book with me but I'll post up later what the codes are. Mine did this a while ago and it turned out to be goosed interior sensors. Short term fix was to unplug sensors until I bought new ones, stopped alarm sounding all night.

Did mine recently and its not too hard to do. Follow guide that Herisites posted link to, hardest part for me was removing the screw in the center vent. All in took me 2/3 hours and I'm no mechanic (only removed center of the dash though)

If you're doing it yourself do as road testers do. A bit brutal but instead of lifting left foot off clutch slide it off to the right,( instant bite ), :shocked!: then don't use clutch to change to second, just yank it in :roll: As I said, brutal, but what the likes of Clarkson do :D

I know what you mean mate. Every time there's a part to replace I'm convinced that the rest of the car was built around it

Don't just chop wires! You'll end up with an immobilised car. Relay is probably hazard light relay clicking. Don't think there's much room behind fuse box for alarm unit, look under passenger side, more room for fitter to install it there.

Could be the ignition switch. They're a pig of a job to do as it's in an awkward/fiddly place. Look in the knowledge base as there's a "how to" change them. Did mine recently and only a cheap part from VW. My problem was a rotted earth strap on the starter motor though, all electrics worked but nothing from the engine. Ignition switch is a common fault though, if it's not been changed recently it will need to be soon.

I think that most alarm systems/control boxes are mounted behind the glove box. If you remove the scuttle in passenger side footwell and look up you will probably see it. You may just have removed the alarm siren from the engine bay.

My 95 VR seems to be running too rich, I've replaced the cat with a stainless sports one, lambda, changed plugs and cleaned ISV, yet still get loads of black soot in the exhaust tail pipe. Want to get this sorted as I'm in danger of sooting up my new lambda (the one I replaced was caked in soot). VAG-COMed and get no fault codes. Could it be the high flow cat creating the soot , or am I going to bung it up with soot aswell as the lambda. Did I mention the word soot enough? Don't know how else to describe it

Where are you? Someone may live near you and show you their wiring

Do the electric windows work either on their own or when you lock the doors? Have a look at the fuse above the relays in the fuse box, it's the one on its own, it's the one that powers windows and c/locking.

I changed the starter motor on my VR6 last week and if I remember correctly the starter bolts are 16mm. When I came to replace bolts, the shorter of the 2 went in easily but I had to jack up engine slightly to get the long bolt to bite into thread of engine mount.